auto/S197+ boost, beware...
#11
sorry to see it stealth.....if you are going to buy
a new ford short block, imo you can't beat buying
direct from tousely ford....here is the SB that you
will want. it probably sells for around $1700 maybe
a little less.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10405
so in the end, all things being equal, the difference between being
forged and not, will be around $1500. my vote is go forged. good luck
and i hope everything turns out well.
a new ford short block, imo you can't beat buying
direct from tousely ford....here is the SB that you
will want. it probably sells for around $1700 maybe
a little less.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10405
so in the end, all things being equal, the difference between being
forged and not, will be around $1500. my vote is go forged. good luck
and i hope everything turns out well.
and to think, I was trying to save the motor by putting the OD back on in order to drop the revs. I am putting the 3.31s back in once I have everything squared away. I know it may sound crazy,but the vortech is also going back on.. this time, with an even more conservative tune.
Live and learn...
Last edited by stealth_GT; 05-01-2010 at 08:49 PM.
#12
you talk to your tuner yet?
that sounds very wierd. 5th gear is about a .7 final drive ratio compared to the 1:1 of 4th gear.
there shouldnt' have been much stress from that shift. wonder if something was up with your timing/fuel and that caused you to burn a piston?
got any pics of the damage yet? sorry to hear about this. I personally would grab a junkyard motor and fix it on the extreme cheap. Unless you can get a brand new assembly for about the same $$$
that sounds very wierd. 5th gear is about a .7 final drive ratio compared to the 1:1 of 4th gear.
there shouldnt' have been much stress from that shift. wonder if something was up with your timing/fuel and that caused you to burn a piston?
got any pics of the damage yet? sorry to hear about this. I personally would grab a junkyard motor and fix it on the extreme cheap. Unless you can get a brand new assembly for about the same $$$
#13
PS
the top end was pretty weak. I barely got up to 135 before it redlined and would'nt go any higher (OD off). With it on, 120 was the highest I have ever gone with the blower. It falls completely flat. 80+ OD on, was also less than awe inspiring. This is cool weather, normal operating temps.
Unless your trapping 120+ plus in the 1/4, I still wouldn't worry about the 4.10s+ blower. Just don't expect to reach any new speed records with it, because the limit is pretty low. No 190-200mph Zo6 times here. And don't mess with the damn OD button.
the top end was pretty weak. I barely got up to 135 before it redlined and would'nt go any higher (OD off). With it on, 120 was the highest I have ever gone with the blower. It falls completely flat. 80+ OD on, was also less than awe inspiring. This is cool weather, normal operating temps.
Unless your trapping 120+ plus in the 1/4, I still wouldn't worry about the 4.10s+ blower. Just don't expect to reach any new speed records with it, because the limit is pretty low. No 190-200mph Zo6 times here. And don't mess with the damn OD button.
#14
you talk to your tuner yet?
that sounds very wierd. 5th gear is about a .7 final drive ratio compared to the 1:1 of 4th gear.
there shouldnt' have been much stress from that shift. wonder if something was up with your timing/fuel and that caused you to burn a piston?
got any pics of the damage yet? sorry to hear about this. I personally would grab a junkyard motor and fix it on the extreme cheap. Unless you can get a brand new assembly for about the same $$$
that sounds very wierd. 5th gear is about a .7 final drive ratio compared to the 1:1 of 4th gear.
there shouldnt' have been much stress from that shift. wonder if something was up with your timing/fuel and that caused you to burn a piston?
got any pics of the damage yet? sorry to hear about this. I personally would grab a junkyard motor and fix it on the extreme cheap. Unless you can get a brand new assembly for about the same $$$
nope, not yet. It wasn't the usual upshift. More like a forced upshift. Whatever gear the transmission was in with the OD off was right at redline when I engaged final gear via over drive button to drop the revs. I'll try and post pics later. I thought an oil line snapped or a coolant line.. imagine my surprise.
Not sure where I am getting the motor yet or what I actually need.
Blower and tranny arefine.
Also, very surprised I was even able to drive home albiet, smoking all over the place...
#16
sorry to see it stealth.....if you are going to buy
a new ford short block, imo you can't beat buying
direct from tousely ford....here is the SB that you
will want. it probably sells for around $1700 maybe
a little less.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10405
so in the end, all things being equal, the difference between being
forged and not, will be around $1500. my vote is go forged. good luck
and i hope everything turns out well.
a new ford short block, imo you can't beat buying
direct from tousely ford....here is the SB that you
will want. it probably sells for around $1700 maybe
a little less.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10405
so in the end, all things being equal, the difference between being
forged and not, will be around $1500. my vote is go forged. good luck
and i hope everything turns out well.
#17
wait...you put a window in your block and were able to drive it home?
last time I window'd a block...yeah, the motor was no worky worky. and lots of steam everywhere with copious oil on everything under the hood...and the fire that started from the damn headers.
last time I window'd a block...yeah, the motor was no worky worky. and lots of steam everywhere with copious oil on everything under the hood...and the fire that started from the damn headers.
#19
tell me about it.. I loved listening to the whine every morning, after work and right before shutting her off.
Usually the shipping to Alasksa is worse then dropping soap in prison lol. I'll check out the Tousley if they really are that good of a deal, have to pick up new head for left cylinder head. Ford here trying to charge $3,500 though it has 3 year/36k mile warranty.. something most places do not.. then again, it does not cover modding... doh!
thats why I had originally thought it was just the bypass valve zip tie or something popping off or possibly a coolant hose. It drove fine(though smokey) til about near my neighborhood, then it starting to die and idle bad. Got it to my uncles garage. The same stunt happened to my 93 rx-7 TT nearly every weekend ,though it was vacumme hoses bursting from pressure/heat, and the smell was similar causing me to think it was just some hoses... dang it. I wish it were the case.
thats why I had originally thought it was just the bypass valve zip tie or something popping off or possibly a coolant hose. It drove fine(though smokey) til about near my neighborhood, then it starting to die and idle bad. Got it to my uncles garage. The same stunt happened to my 93 rx-7 TT nearly every weekend ,though it was vacumme hoses bursting from pressure/heat, and the smell was similar causing me to think it was just some hoses... dang it. I wish it were the case.
#20
well, not exactly at WOT but right near/in the redzone and as I let off a little. When it dropped revs, I got on it some more and thats when it blew. My 4th went up to 135 with the OD off. With it on, it's one long borrring gear. I'd sit at around 3500k @120mph I think it was, sllllooowwly creeping speed. The OD off would top it out taking a cat nap. It was that strong of a gear... oh well, it's over with. 3.31s are going back in after the rebuild.