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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:54 PM
  #11  
tx_zstang's Avatar
tx_zstang
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Swapping in a '08 into your '03? OOOOKKKKK.

Before deciding on cams, carefully decide if you intend to go f/i in the future. You can get cams for n/a and blower applications.
350 might be possible with stock compression ratio, cams, headers, etc.
Old Nov 4, 2010 | 03:25 PM
  #12  
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boduke0220
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Originally Posted by tx_zstang
Swapping in a '08 into your '03? OOOOKKKKK.

Before deciding on cams, carefully decide if you intend to go f/i in the future. You can get cams for n/a and blower applications.
350 might be possible with stock compression ratio, cams, headers, etc.

Yea its not that hard,from what ive read anyways. Im staying n/a for sure. I think i will go with either the ***** thumpr's or the BBR stage 2's
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 06:49 AM
  #13  
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Blacksmoke
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You are probably have to also include a different intake manifold
and heads.

Take a look at the FRRP Top end package for these cars
to get an idea of things to slap on this engine for big HP without F.I.
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 11:10 AM
  #14  
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JasperGT
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This is what I have:

***** Thumprs
ARH LT headers w/ O/R X
JLT CAI
Steeda UDPs
Steeda Delete Plates
Dyno Tune

(see my garage for full set of mods)

and I'm putting 351 rwhp/333 rwtq (slightly more when SAE corrected), so those numbers are achievable.

Gonna be doing an aluminum driveshaft by year's end so we'll see where that gets me.

Be careful of the ***** Thumprs. They are quite a handful. Not comfortable at all under 2k rpms. I do get a TON of looks though, and no one ever pulls up and tries to race me. Plus I have a few complaints from the HOA now...
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #15  
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BruceH
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Originally Posted by boduke0220
Yea its not that hard,from what ive read anyways. Im staying n/a for sure. I think i will go with either the ***** thumpr's or the BBR stage 2's
You will have to change the ecu and harness too. Not sure how the transmission harness is going to get along with the 3v ecu. IIRC an 03 has a throttle cable vs drive by wire for a 3v, that will have to be dealt with. A 4v should be alot easier swap for you plus the 4v has better flowing heads. An aluminator long block with 10.5:1 pistons is less than $6000 shipped.

http://fordracingparts.com/parts/par...tKeyField=9871 Showing suggested retail price.

If you really want to go to the trouble of a different generation swap you may want to look into this. http://fordracingparts.com/parts/par...KeyField=11829

Last edited by BruceH; Nov 5, 2010 at 06:59 PM.
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #16  
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boduke0220
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From: Yadkin, Nc
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Originally Posted by BruceH
You will have to change the ecu and harness too. Not sure how the transmission harness is going to get along with the 3v ecu. IIRC an 03 has a throttle cable vs drive by wire for a 3v, that will have to be dealt with. A 4v should be alot easier swap for you plus the 4v has better flowing heads. An aluminator long block with 10.5:1 pistons is less than $6000 shipped.

http://fordracingparts.com/parts/par...tKeyField=9871 Showing suggested retail price.

If you really want to go to the trouble of a different generation swap you may want to look into this. http://fordracingparts.com/parts/par...KeyField=11829
No i wont, the 2v computer will run the 3v fine i will just need to get a dyno tune and the logan motorsports 3v swap kit. yea i dont have $6000 either lol used 3v's go for $1500 in my area. id like a 4v but everyone has one ( that does swaps anyways) and if i do a swap it will be all motor ( and always will be) and cams for a 4v + springs are $1600. This help is much appriciated, thanks guys!
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 08:29 PM
  #17  
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Blacksmoke
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From: Texas
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Jasper,
Are there any negative sides to the UDP's?
Do you lose anything down low?

Oh yeah and this may sound stupid but I want to double check...
UDP's DO require a tune right?

Last edited by Blacksmoke; Nov 5, 2010 at 08:47 PM.
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 09:56 PM
  #18  
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stealth_GT
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Might as well just get a 3v short block and build it up with forged internals/high compression if you plan on staying NA. Then go with the FRPP top end kit, long tubes and the rest of the usual bolt ons.
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