I have a 2010 Mustang GT with the Edelbrock E-force setup, 18,000 miles.
When I get into boost the dipstick blows out an inch or so.
I've heard to try a breather (passenger side)/oil separator (driver side) setup. The dipstick still blows out. I've heard to crimp the dipstick tube so it's more difficult to push the dipstick out. Now I've noticed a white/yellow foamy substance on the front of the engine, I notice it below the harmonic balancer, but not above the front seal...I'm assuming it's aerated oil (very slow leak).

If my assumption is correct and the PCV system would rather push through the dipstick tube and front seal than through the PCV valve (path of least resistance)...think there are any issues with the PCV valve? How do you check it, with it being part of the valve cover? What are the chances the stock PCV valve is bad after 1 year and 18k miles?

Also, has anyone heard of Krank vents?
http://www.et-performance.com/turbo.html
I know they worked on my old car (when you pulled the dipstick out, you could hear air being sucked into the tube). But I've recently read that if you create too much of a vacuum in the crank case, it can pull the oil vapor out of the air which would otherwise lubricate wrist pins and can change oil flow in the heads and interfere with follower lubrication.

 

This may sound like a dumb question, but... is the dipstick supposed to have an o-ring on it? It has the groove, but no rubber. Maybe it's designed to handle enough pressure to push out a non-o-ringed dipstick...except mine is missing the ring? (Haven't questioned this yet as I figured it just came without one).
Do I want to install an o-ring or would that be asking for trouble? Or should I just put a spring on the dipstick so when it gets pushed out, it'll just push it right back in when off boost?

Revisitng the foamy stuff...I noticed the radiator overflow tank is a little low..and it's the same color as the foam. Guess I should have looked a little closer as to where the leak was originating. I'm betting its a hose somewhere.

 

you could try routing the PCV lines into a breather catch can on both sides
or breathers on both sides and no PCV lines

 

The fact that you're seeing the yellowish substance on your timing cover doesn't sound good. I'm almost thinking that you're pressurizing your crankcase and possibly a head gasket leak.

You should drain your oil into some sort of container you can see through and let it sit for at least an hour and see if it separates into oil and water(clear rubbermaid container would work well for this). That's what the yellowish mixture you see is on the outside of your timing cover. I get that in my oil breather catch can due to the cold and air warm oil vapors but my oil comes out clean from my engine.

 

Who put your SC on? How long has it been on? Is the PCV routed and set up like it is supposed to be?

The crankcase should not be getting pressure like that. There is definately a problem.

 

I'd try venting it. Breathers on both valve covers and one on the oil filler tube. See if that resolves the problem.

 

I've tried the breathers, didn't change anything. You can get oil filler tube breathers?

Also, looked a little closer with my camera...there is a very small puddle right under the water pump pulley, I couldn't see anything above. Think it's the water pump or the crossover? If I need to replace the pump, what do you guys think of the electric pumps? Long lasting, even in the cold?

 

You are going to end up popping your motor if you do not figure out why you are having these problems.

If you don't have instructions for the Eforce, get them and check the vacuum line routing.

You also need to check your antifreeze and oil to see if the two have mixed.

 

What Simon said.

Plus I'd get the oil tube filler breather as well. Open it up all the way.

 

White/Creamy foam? I am sorry, but that almost sounds like water (coolant) and oil mixed together. Could be anything from a gasket up to a hairline crack in your engineblock. Seen that one in a old 350 chevy.