Riptide

I'm monitoring IAT with an aeroforce interceptor via ODBII. This is a completely stock KB 2.6 IC kit.

On a 75 & sunny day I get IATs of mid 130s at stoplights and high 120s when cruising. This seems about 10 degrees more than I would expect.

Here's a youtube video of the flow in the reservoir when the car is cold. Looks fine yes? I've squeezed the lines some to try and make sure there wasn't any air trapped in the system although I couldn't get to every bit of the line.

What kind of IATs are you KB cars getting?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n97KxxAgLlA

Simon1

It's totally normal.

The way it was described to me was the KB compressor is so efficent it makes a little too much heat, which is why IATs tend to be a little higher on the KBs compared to the Whipples.

I don't even worry about my IATs when I am driving around town. I only worry about them at the track.

For street use, the best way to get your IATs down is to put the big AFCO HE in. From what I have been told, it is worth 20-30 degrees of cooling reduction. If you compare the size of the HE KB gives us to what the AFCO unit is, it's a little embarassing.

The second thing is a larger resevoir. It won't help your cruising temps all that much, but if you make a quick run through the gears it offers a larger amount of cooler water for longer.

At the track I use ice in a huge tank in the trunk. Kind of a pain in the ***. But the results are just out of this world. With ice in the tank, my IATs are at or below ambiant, before they would go to 140 on an 80 degree day. This lets the tuner run more timing and change the table for when the PCM pulls timing. The last dyno session I had the tuner only made an extra 25 rwhp going from 91 to 100 oct. But, the curve was really flat and held alot more power for longer. The translation at the track was 6 mph and almost .4 off my best ET. The limiting factor that day was my worn tires.

I think if I had my heads ported it would make a dramatic difference.

Riptide

Thanks for the info. After doing some obsessing over this combined with researching I've come to the conclusion it isn't just me and this is normal for the stock KB setup. Leastways, I am far from the only one to experience perceived higher IATs than expected.

FWIW, when I do a 2-3 pull on the street the IATs actually drop when I first start the pull and only begin to climb towards the end. It will be worse on the track going 1-4 but to me that's a good sign that the system while warm running is able to cope with it up to a point.

Saw the AFCO. That and a better pump might take care of the whole thing. Unfortunately it's a lotta money and at this point I'm not sure I'm going to be putting any more money into this car except for a set of tires and a line lock. Upgrading the HE and IC pump is not gonna happen unless I'm forced into it.

tx_zstang

..the larger afco and lightning pump is not the complete solution (as I've posted 'elsewhere'). I have them both, and I'm sure it helps, at least some.

908ssp

More attention needs to be put a air flow. There is little to no control of the air going through the HE and radiator. Much of the air spills off the sides, top and bottom reducing the effectiveness of the coolers. Remember it is the air that absorbs the heat as it passes through the HEs if the air simply goes sideways and out it isn't absorbing heat. A vented hood is a good place to start. Trying to get all the air out of the engine compartment under the car which already has a positive pressure compared to the top of the hood which has a negative pressure.

Riptide

I'd love a functional cowl to help ventilate the engine bay. I don't like how most cowls on the market are vented. It looks inadequate to me and probably isn't pulling much heat out due to the restriction. I want a nice big gaping 2"+ opening along the rear of that cowl. Can't find a hood like that though.

908ssp

I am sorry to tell you but you're a bit out of date. A cowl hood is NOT a venting or extracting hood. It is a hood designed to force air into the engine. Every NASCAR has their air intake at the cowl because it is a high pressure area and not a low pressure area that you want for venting. Low pressure areas are forward more in the center of the hood where most scoops are mistakenly placed in the dark ages. Check the 302s hood from Tiger Racing or the Steeda hood with the vent in front of the riser or the Deep Draw hood from Shelby all examples of hoods designed to pull air out of the engine compartment and not one is open at the base of the windshield. The reason the fresh air vents in your car are at the base of the windshield is that area has accumulated pressure pushing down right there.

Riptide

Something like this.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/cervin...edium=Shopping

I have to wonder if these types of hoods are going to fit right with a supercharger sitting on top of the engine.