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Motorcraft SP514 Spark Plug

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Old 02-13-2012, 08:36 PM
  #21  
BAB GT
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I had my learning curve this weekend. I got the 514's from AM on clearance, and in my arrogance and ignorance I thought if I followed all the rules I would not need the Lisle 65600. 3 broken plugs later, I was begging the local CarQuest to sell it to me for $98.79 with tax. The sight and sound of porcelain powder in my engine made me sick. I used a shop vac with Tygon tubing, an air compressor with a drinking straw taped to the end, and Q-Tips taped to a chop stick, but I am certain I did not get it all. Due to the recurring nightmares and the lingering smell of PB in the garage and the house, I will be putting 7989's in within the next few months.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:45 PM
  #22  
DTMR
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so i have the code for the later plugs (thank god) so should i just stick with the motor craft ones when I change or should I get Champions instead
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:22 AM
  #23  
S197GT07
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Stick with the motorcraft ones if you have the redesigned heads
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BAB GT
I had my learning curve this weekend. I got the 514's from AM on clearance, and in my arrogance and ignorance I thought if I followed all the rules I would not need the Lisle 65600. 3 broken plugs later, I was begging the local CarQuest to sell it to me for $98.79 with tax. The sight and sound of porcelain powder in my engine made me sick. I used a shop vac with Tygon tubing, an air compressor with a drinking straw taped to the end, and Q-Tips taped to a chop stick, but I am certain I did not get it all. Due to the recurring nightmares and the lingering smell of PB in the garage and the house, I will be putting 7989's in within the next few months.
But the ones you just broke were the stock ones not the sp514s, right?
Why would you change out the 514s?
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:12 AM
  #25  
S197GT07
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I think he broke the stock ones.

Again, the reason the stock plugs are breaking is NOT because they are a 2 piece, it was the copper they used on the electrode that would corrode and bond to the head. All the new plugs now, even 2 pieces, use a nickel plating so that doesn't happen.

Changing out the SP514's is going to be kinda stupid. But if the $12/each champions make you happy go for it. I've heard they are hit or miss with performance.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:43 PM
  #26  
moosestang
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The autolite and ford racing plugs must be made differently, cause I've had mine out half a dozen times or more with no issues.
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:26 PM
  #27  
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They are made by the same company! And the autolites are 2 piece as well!

Thus making my comments more meaningful, that it doesnt matter if its a 1 or a 2, its the coating on the electrode.
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:16 AM
  #28  
chaoscentral
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Originally Posted by S197GT07
They are made by the same company! And the autolites are 2 piece as well!

Thus making my comments more meaningful, that it doesnt matter if its a 1 or a 2, its the coating on the electrode.
So any new plugs will have the nickel coating? When I'm doing my blower install next month I want to go 1 step colder and was thinking HT0s instead of the brisk plugs.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:07 AM
  #29  
S197GT07
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Yes, all the newer plugs will have the nickel coating, thus not fusing to the head.

HT0's are your best bet.
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:35 AM
  #30  
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Default Autozone sp 514

Originally Posted by S197GT07
I think he broke the stock ones.

Again, the reason the stock plugs are breaking is NOT because they are a 2 piece, it was the copper they used on the electrode that would corrode and bond to the head. All the new plugs now, even 2 pieces, use a nickel plating so that doesn't happen.

Changing out the SP514's is going to be kinda stupid. But if the $12/each champions make you happy go for it. I've heard they are hit or miss with performance.
I bought the sp514s at autozone for 101$ then read this forum and ordered them from American muscle for 69
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