BBK Long Tubes Tips and Advice
08-21-2013, 11:26 PM
#1
BBK Long Tubes Tips and Advice
Finally after a long wait I picked up the BBK Long Tubes and catted X. I put them in with my father and I have to say, its not the worst thing but it definitely isn't easy. I got a lot of help from members on here and sound clips from youtube so now it's my turn to give something back. So here's some of the problems that we encountered that others might too. This was on an '06 GT. Since these are a hot item, I figured I could share some tips and anything else to make the install as easy as possible, as well as some sound clips and my thoughts.
The problems? It kind of felt like they were never going to stop coming.
(1) The Xpipe did not line up... not even close. The hangers were stopping us from getting the collector inside of the front of the pipe (about 3/4 of an inch away from a tight fit and also of centered to the right a little). FIX we heated up the hangers on the pipe with a torch, then push them back a little since that was blocking up from sliding it up more. Next, we heated the elbows and with two metal pipes shoved inside the Xpipe, we pulled them away from each other about 3/4 of an inch. After much trial and error, it was perfect.
(2) The passenger side, 3rd cylinder from the front of the car, the BBK supplied bolts would not fit due to the piping from the header getting in the way. FIX from the stock manifold, take one of those nuts and put it on a BBK bolt. As neatly as possible, cut the bolt like (i think we did like 5 or 6 threads) and then spin the nut off. We did this with an air ratchet. If you feel safer, use two nuts and spin them both off.
(3) One of the muffers shifted drastically from its original spot in the bumper cutout. Also, I noticed my over-axles are hanging a bit lower too. I haven't solved this yet but when I do ill post a fix, unless anyone else would like to do that before me.
(4) Upon taking out the stock headers, you will be removing 8 nuts on each side which sometimes will be leaving a stud threaded into the block. NONE of guides covered this... which I will be getting to after this actually. If your lucky, you'll be spinning off the nuts with the studs in them and if not, you will do some extra work. FIX if the stud is still in, with a 3/16 socket (i think) or 5mm you can get them out, but TAKE YOUR TIME.. you get two chances then theyre stripped. Tap the socket on with a wrench lightly. If the stud strips, try a vise grip or channel lock but be extremely careful.
(5) This one was kind of our fault, the gasket was in upside down lol. They are not the same so make sure it fits properly on the block.
Now for some advice...
Drench everything in penetrating oil hours before the install (except the motor). The stock flanges, Hpipe bolts, and the O2 sensors specifically. They were all really hard to get out. The only parts you will re-use are the sensors and hpipe clamps with the bolts and all that is on there originally. If you break the bolt for the flanges by the cats, dont panic because its all garbage anyway. We did that... then I realized since it broke, it was technically off lol.
Also, take your intake off and clean that throttle body. Removing the intake will make the whole install easier.
When you remove those motor mounts and steering shaft, mark it with white-out or a sharpie and check to see if those bolts have moved after you assemble everything and begin to drive it again.
DO NOT forget that while the negative is removed, the window will not drop down so dont slam your door if you need to get inside.
Lastly, work on one side at a time and remove that motor mount for that side ONLY... we did not need to remove both mounts because we didnt have to raise it much. We raised it maybe 2 inches with a 2x4 under the oil pan slowly.
LEave yourself extra time because things may go wrong like us. It took 12 hours from start to finish. The BBK instructions absolutely suck. The one on AM.com was much better, but not that helpful... it only served as a basic guideline for us because some of those pictures were confusing and unclear as well as wrong. My starter had 3 bolts not 4. Neither of these guides mentioned that stud issue in the block either.
My Thoughts
What a difference it made. I have the Flowmaster Hushpower / Pro series axlebacks. They werent that loud before the xpipe and headers but you can hear me cruising and it'll raise the hairs on your arm if I floor it. Perfect. If dont feel like spending all the money on headers, an xpipe alone will definitely increase the sound levels. Those hard 12 hours were definitely worth every minute. I paired it with a 91 Performance tune from bama... its an animal. I will post some sound clips and videos when i get the chance soon.
So hopefully that makes the install easier for anyone else putting these headers in. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Once again- '06 GT, 12 hours, 2 guys working.
The problems? It kind of felt like they were never going to stop coming.
(1) The Xpipe did not line up... not even close. The hangers were stopping us from getting the collector inside of the front of the pipe (about 3/4 of an inch away from a tight fit and also of centered to the right a little). FIX we heated up the hangers on the pipe with a torch, then push them back a little since that was blocking up from sliding it up more. Next, we heated the elbows and with two metal pipes shoved inside the Xpipe, we pulled them away from each other about 3/4 of an inch. After much trial and error, it was perfect.
(2) The passenger side, 3rd cylinder from the front of the car, the BBK supplied bolts would not fit due to the piping from the header getting in the way. FIX from the stock manifold, take one of those nuts and put it on a BBK bolt. As neatly as possible, cut the bolt like (i think we did like 5 or 6 threads) and then spin the nut off. We did this with an air ratchet. If you feel safer, use two nuts and spin them both off.
(3) One of the muffers shifted drastically from its original spot in the bumper cutout. Also, I noticed my over-axles are hanging a bit lower too. I haven't solved this yet but when I do ill post a fix, unless anyone else would like to do that before me.
(4) Upon taking out the stock headers, you will be removing 8 nuts on each side which sometimes will be leaving a stud threaded into the block. NONE of guides covered this... which I will be getting to after this actually. If your lucky, you'll be spinning off the nuts with the studs in them and if not, you will do some extra work. FIX if the stud is still in, with a 3/16 socket (i think) or 5mm you can get them out, but TAKE YOUR TIME.. you get two chances then theyre stripped. Tap the socket on with a wrench lightly. If the stud strips, try a vise grip or channel lock but be extremely careful.
(5) This one was kind of our fault, the gasket was in upside down lol. They are not the same so make sure it fits properly on the block.
Now for some advice...
Drench everything in penetrating oil hours before the install (except the motor). The stock flanges, Hpipe bolts, and the O2 sensors specifically. They were all really hard to get out. The only parts you will re-use are the sensors and hpipe clamps with the bolts and all that is on there originally. If you break the bolt for the flanges by the cats, dont panic because its all garbage anyway. We did that... then I realized since it broke, it was technically off lol.
Also, take your intake off and clean that throttle body. Removing the intake will make the whole install easier.
When you remove those motor mounts and steering shaft, mark it with white-out or a sharpie and check to see if those bolts have moved after you assemble everything and begin to drive it again.
DO NOT forget that while the negative is removed, the window will not drop down so dont slam your door if you need to get inside.
Lastly, work on one side at a time and remove that motor mount for that side ONLY... we did not need to remove both mounts because we didnt have to raise it much. We raised it maybe 2 inches with a 2x4 under the oil pan slowly.
LEave yourself extra time because things may go wrong like us. It took 12 hours from start to finish. The BBK instructions absolutely suck. The one on AM.com was much better, but not that helpful... it only served as a basic guideline for us because some of those pictures were confusing and unclear as well as wrong. My starter had 3 bolts not 4. Neither of these guides mentioned that stud issue in the block either.
My Thoughts
What a difference it made. I have the Flowmaster Hushpower / Pro series axlebacks. They werent that loud before the xpipe and headers but you can hear me cruising and it'll raise the hairs on your arm if I floor it. Perfect. If dont feel like spending all the money on headers, an xpipe alone will definitely increase the sound levels. Those hard 12 hours were definitely worth every minute. I paired it with a 91 Performance tune from bama... its an animal. I will post some sound clips and videos when i get the chance soon.
So hopefully that makes the install easier for anyone else putting these headers in. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Once again- '06 GT, 12 hours, 2 guys working.
08-22-2013, 05:19 AM
#3
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: MO/ Born and raised in Louisiana
Posts: 10,696
What ever you do, don't use the gasket kit that comes with the headers. Garbage with a capitol G! The guy who installed mines a couple years ago said that I should buy aftermarket gaskets. Me being cheap, I told him that I would just stay with the BBK gaskets supplied with the headers. 2 days later a terrible exhuast leak. GL man..
08-22-2013, 06:27 AM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 730
Good lord, there shouldn't be that many issues with fitment. Put pypes on my car and everything lined up perfectly. You should address the fitment issue with BBK directly..even though the headers are already on the car, they really need to have the feedback. Here's their FB page...https://www.facebook.com/BBKPerformance?fref=ts
send them a message but remember to tell them you're helping them by giving them feedback to help them make a better product. That works wonders compared to simply insulting their product. Who knows, you might get some free swag.
send them a message but remember to tell them you're helping them by giving them feedback to help them make a better product. That works wonders compared to simply insulting their product. Who knows, you might get some free swag.
08-22-2013, 09:48 AM
#5
l00kitzzlilcj,
Thanks for the detailed feedback! This is the first time I've heard of such extensive adjustments with BBK's LT headers. I'm not sure if you received a damaged set or what. However, I do agree sending them a message via FB with constructive feedback would be very helpful. Plus, I'll have one of my guys contact them on our end too!
Regardless, thanks for contributing for the forum!
Shane
Thanks for the detailed feedback! This is the first time I've heard of such extensive adjustments with BBK's LT headers. I'm not sure if you received a damaged set or what. However, I do agree sending them a message via FB with constructive feedback would be very helpful. Plus, I'll have one of my guys contact them on our end too!
Regardless, thanks for contributing for the forum!
Shane
08-22-2013, 11:26 AM
#6
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
I had a small issue with my JBA's...and granted it could be due to the fact I bought the headers new, and found the shorty H-pipe used.
BUT...I found out after installing the headers that the collectors were not at the same height after installation (not sure how that happens), there was roughly 1/4-1/2" difference between the two. This caused the H-pipe to be slightly "tweaked" when it was installed, which also tweaked the pipes a little bit and pushed everything toward the driver's side. Which is kind of a pain because the passenger side tailpipe ended up to where it's almost hitting the trunk floor right where it turns to go down into the axle back. I had to do some creative adjusting to get stuff to not hit and still line up.
I also ended up adding about 1.5" of pipe to the collector end of the H-pipe because for some reason, when I installed it I could get the passenger side to where it was slipped over and onto the collector yet the driver's side of it was still 1/4" away. Very odd.
Oh, BTW, as for the studs staying in the block thing...I had that happen on about 6 of my 16 studs, most of them I was able to soak overnight with Kroil and/or PB blaster and turn them out via the tiny hex head on the stud...but on three of them the hex part just broke off and I ended up having to spray off the stud with brake cleaner (to remove ALL oil), double nut, and then turn out with a wrench. Not really enough room to really get vise grips in there.
BUT...I found out after installing the headers that the collectors were not at the same height after installation (not sure how that happens), there was roughly 1/4-1/2" difference between the two. This caused the H-pipe to be slightly "tweaked" when it was installed, which also tweaked the pipes a little bit and pushed everything toward the driver's side. Which is kind of a pain because the passenger side tailpipe ended up to where it's almost hitting the trunk floor right where it turns to go down into the axle back. I had to do some creative adjusting to get stuff to not hit and still line up.
I also ended up adding about 1.5" of pipe to the collector end of the H-pipe because for some reason, when I installed it I could get the passenger side to where it was slipped over and onto the collector yet the driver's side of it was still 1/4" away. Very odd.
Oh, BTW, as for the studs staying in the block thing...I had that happen on about 6 of my 16 studs, most of them I was able to soak overnight with Kroil and/or PB blaster and turn them out via the tiny hex head on the stud...but on three of them the hex part just broke off and I ended up having to spray off the stud with brake cleaner (to remove ALL oil), double nut, and then turn out with a wrench. Not really enough room to really get vise grips in there.
08-22-2013, 12:50 PM
#7
Lololol I have so many little cuts on my arms and hands. I was thinking about getting those actually but I figured ill go with bbk since ill pick up a throttle body from them eventually.
08-22-2013, 01:10 PM
#8
What ever you do, don't use the gasket kit that comes with the headers. Garbage with a capitol G! The guy who installed mines a couple years ago said that I should buy aftermarket gaskets. Me being cheap, I told him that I would just stay with the BBK gaskets supplied with the headers. 2 days later a terrible exhuast leak. GL man..
08-23-2013, 11:18 AM
#9
Good lord, there shouldn't be that many issues with fitment. Put pypes on my car and everything lined up perfectly. You should address the fitment issue with BBK directly..even though the headers are already on the car, they really need to have the feedback. Here's their FB page...https://www.facebook.com/BBKPerformance?fref=ts
send them a message but remember to tell them you're helping them by giving them feedback to help them make a better product. That works wonders compared to simply insulting their product. Who knows, you might get some free swag.
send them a message but remember to tell them you're helping them by giving them feedback to help them make a better product. That works wonders compared to simply insulting their product. Who knows, you might get some free swag.
08-23-2013, 03:13 PM
#10
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WV
Posts: 750
Headers are headers as far as sound goes, really...I think the only think that might affect sound with them is primary size or maybe collector size, otherwise longtubes are all gonna sound pretty similar.
Also, the midpipe hanger issue doesn't sound all that unusual, I think it's pretty common for the hangers to be off. On the used JBA shorty H-pipe I bought, apparently the drivers side hanger didn't fit right so instead of tweaking it to make it fit, the previous owner had just cut it off
I made a new one out of some 3/8" round steel and welded it on. I had to bend the passenger one slightly also. For the tube fitment it's possible something just warped or moved during welding.
Also, the midpipe hanger issue doesn't sound all that unusual, I think it's pretty common for the hangers to be off. On the used JBA shorty H-pipe I bought, apparently the drivers side hanger didn't fit right so instead of tweaking it to make it fit, the previous owner had just cut it off
I made a new one out of some 3/8" round steel and welded it on. I had to bend the passenger one slightly also. For the tube fitment it's possible something just warped or moved during welding.