Last night I ran out to the store and when I went to leave the car would not start, as if the battery was dead. Popped the hood and saw corrosion all over the postive terminal. Tapped it a couple times and started up. Drove the 1 mile home, cleaned the terminal, started it up no issues. This morning I got in it, started right up for about 5 seconds and then died as if the gas ran out. Tried to start it and it just shook then died. Waited for a couple minutes and tried again, stated but I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep 1000rpms going. After a few seconds it was idling on it's own. Drove the mile to the same store with no issues. Started right up and went home. Hour later drove to the gas station and filled up with gas being at a 1/4 tank. I did buy gas couple days ago somewhere I don't usually go so thought maybe some bad gas. On the way to the gas station the CEL came on. Got home and read the codes P0135 and P0175 which means I'm running rich. I've read people with these codes can be either bad gas, bad O2, injectors and engine replacement. the only change recently is I switched out stock GT mufflers for a Roush set.

2005 Roush stage 1 32K miles K&N intake deleted cats and X-Pipe

 

First of all, take the time to properly clean both battery cables; do it right, so you prevent other issues. Dont make your baby suffer with power issues!!!

While you're at it, leave the battery disconnected for 20 minuets or more, so it clears your codes.

If you still have issues, check codes again. A P0135 is "O2 Sensor Heater Circuit", which indicates either a power distribution issue (O2 heater circuit) or yes, could be a bad sensor.

Depending on how difficult the muffler change was, it's possible (but not that likely) that something happened to one of the O2 sensors, especially if there was any banging on the pipes. Or one of the front O2 connectors may have come partially or completely unplugged; especially check the passenger-side one since you were messing with the battery cables on that side.

Take care of the battery cables first, then see what happens. And inspect the O2 sensor connectors.

If you're still getting the same issues, I would check the voltage of the heater circuit to see if 12 volts is there with key on, and if present, change one of both o2 sensors. If there is no O2 heater voltage, that'll cause your problems, and is probably a blown fuse (in the BEC).

Usually there's more bank-specific codes that narrow down the problem, especially if it is one-side specific.

 

I suspect that the P0135 DTC was caused by your battery voltage dropping too low (O2 heater test will fail if current draw is not within a calibrated limit); flooding the engine probably resulted in the P0175 code. The cause of too rich on the opposite bank might be fuel rail pressure sensor bias when the injectors were flooded (or you might have knocked something loose). All should be okay if you check vacuum lines for leakage, clean your MAF sensor and throttle body, change your fuel filter and get a new battery (because your terminal is leaking). And don't go to off brand gas stations! Hope this helps.

 

I cleaned both terminals, cleaned the MAF, reset the codes and disconnected the battery for awhile. Been driving all day and so far all good. tx_stang I did have to use a rubber mallet when installing the new mufflers so you are probably on to something with that. Plus I bottomed out TWICE yesterday (hitting the pipes) on slopes, VERY slow speeds though. I've yet to get a tune with everything I've done an suspect that may have something to do with it as well. And I can assure you I will NEVER buy off brand gas again!