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after rebuild run like crap help

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Old Apr 12, 2020 | 02:12 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Dino Dino Bambino
That dull thudding sound isn't detonation. It sounds like a knocking cam phaser. I think you'll have to pull the valve covers and inspect the phasers on both sides. I hope you didn't buy Dorman units 'cause these are known to be unreliable and can go bad very quickly. Bad phasers would explain all of your problems.
i dodnt think i bought dorman, but i found my noise problem

this came out of the used head i just bought but lucky i have that old head for some spares.
ill be replacing that and the solenoid today and will repost.
Old Apr 12, 2020 | 07:17 PM
  #12  
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the car sounds good now but im still getting the p0340 code.
in the freeze frame i noticed the maf sensor seemed to be reading low then i would think it should be.








Old Apr 13, 2020 | 03:01 PM
  #13  
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I disconnected the maf while it was running and it wanted to die for a split sec but then was fine and ran the exact same with it disconnected as it did with it connected so I think that might be a problem. But is the maf part of the cam circuit and throwing the p0340 code?

Last edited by zkdawg; Apr 13, 2020 at 05:36 PM.
Old Apr 14, 2020 | 05:58 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Dino Dino Bambino
That dull thudding sound isn't detonation. It sounds like a knocking cam phaser. I think you'll have to pull the valve covers and inspect the phasers on both sides. I hope you didn't buy Dorman units 'cause these are known to be unreliable and can go bad very quickly. Bad phasers would explain all of your problems.
it turns out i did use a dorman phaser and got a p0022 code so today i swapped in a ford phaser, it sounds better and im not getting the p0022 code but have the dam p0340 pending.

i need help so bad as im at a total lose here...
Old Apr 15, 2020 | 02:35 AM
  #15  
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Possibly a bad alternator diode (rectifier) assembly as I alluded to earlier.
Old Apr 15, 2020 | 11:23 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Dino Dino Bambino
Possibly a bad alternator diode (rectifier) assembly as I alluded to earlier.
I put a new alt in not a reman because the reman was bad. We tested this twice before leaving the store and it is good.
Old Apr 15, 2020 | 06:53 PM
  #17  
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well i think i found the problem. ill start with i found a test function in my scanner that allows me the see the power between all the cylinders. here are the results.


as you can see, cyl 6 is low on the graph, this is the cylinder that i just replaced this guy


so i did a compression test on cyl 5 and 6, cyl 5 had 211 psi and, well 6 had 0 yes zero. so i took my oscilloscope and looked in there as i had a sneaking suspicion the exhaust valve which is the valve i replaced that broken rocker, was not closing all the way. it does appear that it could be bent and not sealing.
here is the vid from my oscilloscope, its not great quality as it is to close to the valve.

i think what had happened is, the rocker to have enough play to come loose and brake, because of the slightly bent valve. ill be pulling the head to confirm and will post it.

Last edited by zkdawg; Apr 17, 2020 at 12:33 PM.
Old Apr 17, 2020 | 12:31 PM
  #18  
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well i was right, got the head off and found the exhaust valve bent and it turns out it was bent when i got the head so i will be contacting the seller.
now its time to put it all back together... again
hopefully this will cure the code.

Last edited by zkdawg; Apr 17, 2020 at 12:34 PM.
Old Apr 17, 2020 | 04:37 PM
  #19  
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very nice troubleshooting on your part and thanks for keeping us updated on your progress.

this is very educational stuff.
Old Apr 17, 2020 | 04:58 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by hammeron
very nice troubleshooting on your part and thanks for keeping us updated on your progress.

this is very educational stuff.
Thats why i do this.



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