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5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
oh yea i plan in usin iron till i get the money for cnc or trick flows
which is better cnc or trick flow what kinda intake for carb and what kind for efi which is better
If you are going w/ a 393 you mind as well go with a 408W. Not much HP difference but a world in torque. A 393W and a 408W stroker kit is the same price.
what is an h/c/i would sub frame connectors do or would iu need more im 17 and just tryin to set some future goals
Get full length subs, u/l rear control arms, strut tower brace, and front/rear sways if it's a street car. also stiffer springs and then shocks/struts to go w/ them will tighten it up a lot.
oh yea i plan in usin iron till i get the money for cnc or trick flows
which is better cnc or trick flow what kinda intake for carb and what kind for efi which is better
For EFI, there's the Edelbrock RPM or RPM2, Trickflow Street or Track heat....The intake you choose depends on what rpm range you're building your car for. A street car will more likely need longer runners for low-end torque, while drag cars want shorter runners for more HP at higher rpm's. TFS makes a top-end kit that has the whole H/C/I kit for ~$2000. It would put you close to 300hp at the wheels depending on the rest of your setup.
Go w/ the Trickflow stage 1 cam...it has a longer duration and higher lift on the exhaust side instead of equal int/exh like the FRPP letter cams.
I think that if I were to do the car I'd start at rear bumper and work my way forward.
Spend time/money on the chassis and drivetrain and only do what was needed on the engine last.
You'd be surprised how little HP it can take to run 12's with a car that has right suspension/gearing......