superfreak

ah, i was told they had all forged internals, well either way i wanan find a 87-92 block, because they had the newer style pistons, get forged crank/rods, prolly new pistons build it, then ill have a solid foundation then ill go with the power adder note- b4 i do all im gonna repair everything that needs repairs first and get the car in gr8 cond first.... good thing is it pretty much already is just need a few things here and their she will be set for the goods

ill have about a grand a month to spend on her so id like to dip her into high 12s by end of summer... figure thats reasonable and ill be doin all the work on her my self

OnyxCobra

well usually cams are like good for bottom end or top end, so u might have trouble finding a 1500-6500rpm cam. the Trickflow Stage 1 cam is 2500-6500 and hammers pretty good while idling... reasonable price too.

FiveLiterRiceEater

duration is how long your valves are open for out of 360 degrees. (duration 252/256, the intake valve is open for 252 degrees, and the exhaust for 256)

lift is how many thousands of an inch the cam opens the valve. (.513 lift is a little over half an inch open.)

as for the 87 - 93 engines, only a few years have forged pistons, and 90 was the last year i believe. and pistons are the only forged internals in it.

if you're looking to add power to a mostly stock engine, you should start with bolt ons. and if you're just going to end up swapping the engine I wouldnt even add a cam yet. you should keep an eye out for the short block, then built it. leave your car stock while you build the other engine.

FiveLiterRiceEater

and now that i'm thinking about engines, I'm planing on buying a new short block pretty soon. so after i get it swapped out i could probably sell you my short block. its a 90, forged pistons. needs a rebuild though.

superfreak

that would work, 302 right? and how much we lookin at here with shipping... and ull have it in a month or 2 maybe 3 right? i didnt plan on buying an engine for a good couple maybe 3 months


ill proly have to have one of my buddies help me build it to im 17 ive had 3 dsm turbo's and 2 86 shelby chargers 2.2l turbo engines, where the cams are in the head ive never messed with any other engines then those besides my v6 in my maro beater car

i tried lookin at some pics on how the 302 works with the cams bein in the block but i dont totaly understand it. also i didnt plan on buying the cam now or anytime soon i do plan on doin up the suspension and all the bolt ons first.... ive just always been curious as what the duration and lifts were... and how to tell what was radical and what was not and now i know


as for as it bein carb, if i stay carb wich intake would u go with only 2 i found were edlebrock performer and the holley avenger intake for carbs...

i also found some carb hats through vortech for the supercharger they want like 700 bux for that... its like its own intake with throttlebodie and stuff on it, isnt wat i want though, yano how on carbs u got the air intake that screws on to them, wel i just want something i can screwe on to the carb that will be air tight / take boost..... and just have a elbow for the charge air pipes but ive yet to find something of that sort

im just th ekinda guy rather im doin it now or l8r i like to learn as much as i can b4 i tackle the job and get to know everything first instead of trying to learn it when im rdy to do it, and im new to mustangs ( fords ) so ive been asking alot of questions lately trying to learn as much as i can yano so that way i can stop asking questions post more answers on here as well and eventualy become a contributer... iduno im weird i guess

the main reason why i want to switch to l8r block also is becasue of the pistons... i want to get TW'S with i was told to get 1.7 rockers, and if i do that ill have bent vavles because of the flattop pistons..

Joel5.0

If you want to understand how a cam works, terminology, what caracteristics affect engine operation, how...etc....check this Cam Secrets article.

gspfunk

From what you said, I think you'd be happy w/ a TFS stage 1 to use w/ your 1.7 roller rockers. The higher the duration and lower the LOS (lobe of seperation), the rougher the idle will be. the E cam has a 114 LOS, I believe. For a streetable car, I'd stay around that...no lower than 112. Just my 2 cents.

OnyxCobra

E303 is 110 lsa

grabbem88

huh? it's 112

gspfunk

I thought it was higher too, but Summit says Onyx is right. E=110, F=109, B=107.

FRPP's site doesn't even list the LOS....hmmm.