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drive belt problems

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Old 04-28-2006, 10:10 PM
  #11  
sturno55
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Default RE: drive belt problems

I didnt mean that I took off the tensioner sorry, Its just that the belt is loose enuff to slip off the tensioner without loosening it but tight enuff to stay on if you tried to slide it off one of the other pulleys.

It doesnt have a/c , and Its not in gear or anything but only the fan , alternator and clunky sounding p/s pulley spin or move at all. I didnt notice any leaks in the driveway at all and all fluid levels are fine. And the p/s pulley def moves in and out about 1/16 of an inch, maybe a little less.

I am sure that the belt is routed properly, there is a pic and I have changed the belt in the past with no probs.

And at the risk of sounding like a fool I will say that I don't think I know what a smog pump is.( its the fan isn't, I am such a dumbass).
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:15 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: drive belt problems

The tensioner seems solid and doesnt have any give to it by the way
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:20 PM
  #13  
FiveLiterRiceEater
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Default RE: drive belt problems

haha its alright.

okay, i dont think your powersteering pump has enough in/out play to be bad. But if it spins rough, the bearings may be bad.

when you spin the fan, does the pulley behind it on the water pump spin?

and when you say the tensioner is solid do you mean, it keeps its tension? as in you have to put a good amount of force on it to move the arm? or do you mean the pulley on it wont spin?

your smog pump, or AIR pump, is going to be located under your alternator. this is just an emissions device that puts air back into your exhaust to burn up hydrocarbons. you may not have one if you dont know what it is, and you havnt really seemed to talk about it. but its right under the alternator. but so far it sounds like your power steering pump may be the culprit.
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:31 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: drive belt problems

The tensioner retains its tension and spins smoothly.

When I spin the fan, the pulley behind it on the water pump does not spin, it seems locked in place.

And someone had mentioned that there was some loose bearing or something that was causing a clanking sound from the engine but it never got anyworse and the straight pipe on it is so loud you could barely notice anyway.

Thanks a million by the way.
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:36 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: drive belt problems

oh and I should mention that before the belt snapped I was pushing a bit too hard in less than dry conditions and redlined for a sec, and I had to drive it like a mile back home, and when I got home it had just started to smoke a bit under the hood and upon popping the hood I could hear the coolant boiling.
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Old 04-28-2006, 10:58 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: drive belt problems

sounds like you overheated your car. did you drive home with the belt broken?

i want you to try to spin the pulley behind the fan. it it doesnt spin you're going to need a water pump.

also since you overheated your car, check around where your heads mount to the block for coolant leaks once you get it running again. you coukld have blown a head gasket.
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Old 04-28-2006, 11:27 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: drive belt problems

That is what I was afraid of. I def cant move the water pump so that needs to be changed I guess, and I didnt notice anyleaks when I started it up early today with the loose belt on but I will look carefuly later. How dificult is it to change the water pump or should someone like me who hasnt changed anything but oil and an alternator not even attempt it.
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Old 04-28-2006, 11:39 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: drive belt problems

its not hard. but it can be a challenge for a person who isnt too familiar with working on cars. I'll try to give you some steps.

1. drain the coolant, you can do this by removing the lower radiator hose at the radiator, or if you have a pecock on the radiator you can open it.
2. take off the fan shroud, let it sit over the fan for a minute.
3. remove the 4 bolts hold the fan on to the pulley. you can now take off the fan, shroud, and pulley.
4. remove the tensioner and any accessory brackets that are attached to the water pump.
5. disconnect all the hoses on the water pump, heater hoses, coolant bypass hose, and lower radiator hose.
6. take out the water pump bolts and take the water pump off the engine.

when you put it back on, I usually get some hi-tack, or super stick gasket sealer and put alittle bit on the gasket so it'll stick to the water pump when you put it on. Also, I use pipe thread sealent on the bolts, to prevent leaks. teflon tape works too. when you put the pump on torque the bolts to 15 foot pounds. fill up the radiator, start the car with no cap on, turn the heater on high, and let her burp for a while to get air out of the system. when its done burping shut it off and put the cap on. then put a little bit of coolant in the overflow container.

pretty easy stuff.
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Old 04-28-2006, 11:43 PM
  #19  
5.0stanger
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Default RE: drive belt problems

You should be alright, it is basically unbolt and bolt on, you just need to drain you antifreeze first. If you have any problems, we all can help too. I don't think your power steering pump is bad either, they do make some noise and they do move in and out a bit, so that sounds normal to me.

Edit...looks like I was a little behind....what he said
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Old 04-28-2006, 11:46 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: drive belt problems

they shouldnt feel chunky when the spin though? really all that i ever see bad with pumps is front pump seals leaking, or the occasional pump shaft break. we had this one on a tahoe once, put a screw driver behind the pulley and just barely pried it out and the damn pulley fell off. OOPS! hah
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