tokinGLX

and like i said, i would run the alum block because it weighs substantially less than an iron one

myshifter

Sounds good, Good Luck

tokinGLX

wow.

you need to get rid of your post whoring complex. i could understand if you offered useful information, but all youve given me so far is that if i get it hot then its toast. does this mean that fords "racing" block is strictly for drag racing(im asking this, because i honestly dont know)¿ and tho i know absolutely nothing about drag racing, i would assume that that gets the block a lot hotter than street use pretty quickly. and whats with the 05 mustangs comming with an aluminum block if they are so unstreetable¿ see, unlike you, i dont know this stuff. thats why i come here and ask questions, because theres some people around here who have good advice to give, as opposed to "your engine is **** because its not like mine and i dont really have anything worthwhile to say but ill reply just to get my postcount up... oh well, its your money, good luck to ya!"

myshifter

slow down man, like in your last thread I told you that block is a siamese bore which means its totally solid between cylinder bores, NO provisions for coolant to flow between cylinders. I may be wrong but I highly doubt the mustang blocks are siamese bore with solid casting between cylinders. A street car that sees varying temperatures all day in traffic is much harder on a block than a guy that races his car for 45 seconds at a time. Now I am done with this thread since I offer no information other than to boost my postcount as if postcount means anything. Ask your engine builder!

sgt_pepper17

Alright guys... lets settle this once and for all...

Aluminum block.... bad idea... it's just not durable enough to handle the rigors of daily driving. The 302 doesn't weigh that much... especially with aluminium heads. If I were you I'ld go with an iron block as an investment in durability and longevity... like you said you don't want to spend lots of money just to have to do it again. At least with the iron block if you neglect to look at the thermostat every 15 seconds you can get away with a little overheating incident.

Next the Weiand Stealth vs. the Victor Junior.. My buddy has a mildly built 302.. ported E7s, 228 234 duration camshaft with about 500 lift, a holley 600 vac secondary, BBK shorties, 2 1/2 duels with flowmaster 40s... he's run a Performer, and an offenhouser open plenum. It ran fine on the performer... but the open plenum killed the performer overall.. When your cam is meant to run from 2500 to 6500 then you need to get an open plenum because that's where it's made to run. Matching parts is the most important part of the game. If it's bottom end you're concerned with, get a gear for your axel. Finally, the Weiand will flow very well up in the high RPMs... but not nearly as well as an open plenum manifold, and if you're running a road course car you're going to want to buy an open plenum because that's where your motor is going to be spending most of it's life.... in the 3500-6500 range. Furthermore... for daily driving an open plenum is fine if you have a gear...

The carb will probably be fine, but you could push for a 750 or a 670 if you really want to... I think that that carb will feed that car in the upper rpms just fine.... you might want more if you had more cubes or a bigger cam....

The cam looks okay... but what i'ld worry about is where they say it will be good from and until.. that cam look awfully familiar... like maybe the torker 2 cam.... not the same but damn similar. the torker 2 setup is a lazy setup until after 3000... a friend of mine has that setup. If it's a roller cam... go bigger... call the cam hotline at comp cams.... they're smart as hell when it comes to that stuff... they'll try and sell you their cams obviously, but if you call them with your events they can run it against theirs and let you know what they thinkn... they'll be honest... they've always been with me.

tokinGLX

the block is taken care of, i went with a dart 331. i forgot that i had already discarded the r302 due to its siamease design. and this is not going to be a strict race car. it is my daily driver work car that will see a trip to the track maybe 2-3 times a year, so once again, there is no chance i would take a vic over the stealth when it comes to the intake, it just doesnt seem practical, at all, in a city driver. and yes, it is a roller cam. if it produces good power from 1800 to 5800, thats more than enough for the street.

sgt_pepper17

Enjoy the weiand... I think that maybe the vic would be too much... but perhaps a high rise dual plane is in order... or maybe something like a torker2 intake... even a small tube open plenum would be better... a low rise dual plenum is just a bit too little for that... i'ld check out some of my suggestions. I've got a performer RPM and it's wonderful... can't wait to put a cam under it....

myshifter

Personally if your set on a dual plane I would favor the RPM

tokinGLX

i had always been considering the rpm, the only reasons id have to go with the stealth is its power off idle to 6800, whereas the rpm is between 1500 and 6500. granted, i will probably never be shifting at or above 6000, its the off idle power that would pull me. will an rpm fit under a stock hood with a ½" spacer¿

myshifter

Hmm I ran an RPM in an 85' stock hood, but did not run a spacer, I still think it fits. Use a drop base air filter