I hate being a noob
06-18-2006, 02:10 AM
#15
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 868
RE: I hate being a noob
9" the conversation was about 7.5" and 8.8" so since he was thinking aobut 7.5's and 8.8's your proving that 3.70s exist doesnt count... they probably make them for the other axels but ive never seen them....
06-18-2006, 02:21 AM
#16
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Laredo, TEXAS
Posts: 6,054
RE: I hate being a noob
ORIGINAL: Mthd11
9" the conversation was about 7.5" and 8.8" so since he was thinking aobut 7.5's and 8.8's your proving that 3.70s exist doesnt count... they probably make them for the other axels but ive never seen them....
9" the conversation was about 7.5" and 8.8" so since he was thinking aobut 7.5's and 8.8's your proving that 3.70s exist doesnt count... they probably make them for the other axels but ive never seen them....
06-18-2006, 02:23 AM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 868
RE: I hate being a noob
haha dude relax im just ****ing with you i felt like being smart... after a day of mindless pushing shopping carts and thinking about how much BS im gonna have to put up with to buy my 5.0
06-18-2006, 02:31 AM
#18
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Laredo, TEXAS
Posts: 6,054
RE: I hate being a noob
ORIGINAL: Mthd11
haha dude relax im just ****ing with you i felt like being smart... after a day of mindless pushing shopping carts and thinking about how much BS im gonna have to put up with to buy my 5.0
haha dude relax im just ****ing with you i felt like being smart... after a day of mindless pushing shopping carts and thinking about how much BS im gonna have to put up with to buy my 5.0
06-18-2006, 03:00 AM
#19
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: st clair shores MI
Posts: 6,028
RE: I hate being a noob
well i see the knowledge is a bit lacking in this thread, but the BS is plentiful....lol
ok , yes the 7.5 and 8.8 is the size of the rear end. '85 and older were 7 1/2 " and '86 newer were 8.8"
for gear selection, absolutely go 4.10 , i knock down 21 mpg w/ my 4.10's if i keep it mild on the freeway, i tach 3000 doing 80 mph
in your door tag is a sticker, under "ax" is your stock gear, m=2.73, z=3.08, e=3.27 (aod's only)
gears and nitrous are the 2 best "bang for the buck" mods
you will also want to get a set of cheater slicks to fully see the gains of both as well, mickey hompson et streets are about the best there is, av. in bias-ply and radial both.
cold air intakes don't do too much but will make a difference , mostly looks, but pulls air from the fenderwell w/ a larger filter, and no restrictive intake tubing (the stock rubber doesn't flow too well)
i question the "dyno proven" hp gains from an intake swap as mentioned above, if it your dyno sheet , i'd like to see it.
the stock induction will support 300 hp, and doesn't make big gains from opening it up
the stock fuel system will also supprt about 300 hp, but look to do a 190 fuel pump when you do heads or nitrous , it's good cheap insurance, a good pump will hold out, the stock 20 year old pump could be a different story though
after the gears and whether or not you do nitrous, the heads are the next restrictive point in the induction.
small blocks don't need huge airflow, but a mild port ont he intakes, and some good exhaust work will go well,along with the heads, then do intake and cam, tb, meter.
w/ gears and nitrous you can hit 12's
add HCI and you can see 11's
roughly 300 hp on stock motor w/ 100 shot
roughly 300 hp w/ HCI
roughly 400 hp hci + nitrous
track times prove everything, if your not getting 1.7 60 foots, you need to improve on something......traction typically, lower control arms are a world of difference, hpm meg-byte jr's are the best on market IMO
ok i'll stop there, i forgot what i even talked about now.
ok , yes the 7.5 and 8.8 is the size of the rear end. '85 and older were 7 1/2 " and '86 newer were 8.8"
for gear selection, absolutely go 4.10 , i knock down 21 mpg w/ my 4.10's if i keep it mild on the freeway, i tach 3000 doing 80 mph
in your door tag is a sticker, under "ax" is your stock gear, m=2.73, z=3.08, e=3.27 (aod's only)
gears and nitrous are the 2 best "bang for the buck" mods
you will also want to get a set of cheater slicks to fully see the gains of both as well, mickey hompson et streets are about the best there is, av. in bias-ply and radial both.
cold air intakes don't do too much but will make a difference , mostly looks, but pulls air from the fenderwell w/ a larger filter, and no restrictive intake tubing (the stock rubber doesn't flow too well)
i question the "dyno proven" hp gains from an intake swap as mentioned above, if it your dyno sheet , i'd like to see it.
the stock induction will support 300 hp, and doesn't make big gains from opening it up
the stock fuel system will also supprt about 300 hp, but look to do a 190 fuel pump when you do heads or nitrous , it's good cheap insurance, a good pump will hold out, the stock 20 year old pump could be a different story though
after the gears and whether or not you do nitrous, the heads are the next restrictive point in the induction.
small blocks don't need huge airflow, but a mild port ont he intakes, and some good exhaust work will go well,along with the heads, then do intake and cam, tb, meter.
w/ gears and nitrous you can hit 12's
add HCI and you can see 11's
roughly 300 hp on stock motor w/ 100 shot
roughly 300 hp w/ HCI
roughly 400 hp hci + nitrous
track times prove everything, if your not getting 1.7 60 foots, you need to improve on something......traction typically, lower control arms are a world of difference, hpm meg-byte jr's are the best on market IMO
ok i'll stop there, i forgot what i even talked about now.
06-18-2006, 03:07 AM
#20
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Laredo, TEXAS
Posts: 6,054
RE: I hate being a noob
ORIGINAL: nitrous_bob
well i see the knowledge is a bit lacking in this thread, but the BS is plentiful....lol
ok , yes the 7.5 and 8.8 is the size of the rear end. '85 and older were 7 1/2 " and '86 newer were 8.8"
for gear selection, absolutely go 4.10 , i knock down 21 mpg w/ my 4.10's if i keep it mild on the freeway, i tach 3000 doing 80 mph
in your door tag is a sticker, under "ax" is your stock gear, m=2.73, z=3.08, e=3.27 (aod's only)
gears and nitrous are the 2 best "bang for the buck" mods
you will also want to get a set of cheater slicks to fully see the gains of both as well, mickey hompson et streets are about the best there is, av. in bias-ply and radial both.
cold air intakes don't do too much but will make a difference , mostly looks, but pulls air from the fenderwell w/ a larger filter, and no restrictive intake tubing (the stock rubber doesn't flow too well)
i question the "dyno proven" hp gains from an intake swap as mentioned above, if it your dyno sheet , i'd like to see it.
the stock induction will support 300 hp, and doesn't make big gains from opening it up
the stock fuel system will also supprt about 300 hp, but look to do a 190 fuel pump when you do heads or nitrous , it's good cheap insurance, a good pump will hold out, the stock 20 year old pump could be a different story though
after the gears and whether or not you do nitrous, the heads are the next restrictive point in the induction.
small blocks don't need huge airflow, but a mild port ont he intakes, and some good exhaust work will go well,along with the heads, then do intake and cam, tb, meter.
w/ gears and nitrous you can hit 12's
add HCI and you can see 11's
roughly 300 hp on stock motor w/ 100 shot
roughly 300 hp w/ HCI
roughly 400 hp hci + nitrous
track times prove everything, if your not getting 1.7 60 foots, you need to improve on something......traction typically, lower control arms are a world of difference, hpm meg-byte jr's are the best on market IMO
ok i'll stop there, i forgot what i even talked about now.
well i see the knowledge is a bit lacking in this thread, but the BS is plentiful....lol
ok , yes the 7.5 and 8.8 is the size of the rear end. '85 and older were 7 1/2 " and '86 newer were 8.8"
for gear selection, absolutely go 4.10 , i knock down 21 mpg w/ my 4.10's if i keep it mild on the freeway, i tach 3000 doing 80 mph
in your door tag is a sticker, under "ax" is your stock gear, m=2.73, z=3.08, e=3.27 (aod's only)
gears and nitrous are the 2 best "bang for the buck" mods
you will also want to get a set of cheater slicks to fully see the gains of both as well, mickey hompson et streets are about the best there is, av. in bias-ply and radial both.
cold air intakes don't do too much but will make a difference , mostly looks, but pulls air from the fenderwell w/ a larger filter, and no restrictive intake tubing (the stock rubber doesn't flow too well)
i question the "dyno proven" hp gains from an intake swap as mentioned above, if it your dyno sheet , i'd like to see it.
the stock induction will support 300 hp, and doesn't make big gains from opening it up
the stock fuel system will also supprt about 300 hp, but look to do a 190 fuel pump when you do heads or nitrous , it's good cheap insurance, a good pump will hold out, the stock 20 year old pump could be a different story though
after the gears and whether or not you do nitrous, the heads are the next restrictive point in the induction.
small blocks don't need huge airflow, but a mild port ont he intakes, and some good exhaust work will go well,along with the heads, then do intake and cam, tb, meter.
w/ gears and nitrous you can hit 12's
add HCI and you can see 11's
roughly 300 hp on stock motor w/ 100 shot
roughly 300 hp w/ HCI
roughly 400 hp hci + nitrous
track times prove everything, if your not getting 1.7 60 foots, you need to improve on something......traction typically, lower control arms are a world of difference, hpm meg-byte jr's are the best on market IMO
ok i'll stop there, i forgot what i even talked about now.
