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Need some help with mods... Please?

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Old 08-31-2006, 06:53 PM
  #11  
androdz
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?


ORIGINAL: fassst5.0

3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
GUYS REMEMBER THE CAR FROM FACTORY COMES WITH A 3.55 THE MANUAL AND A 3.33 OR 3.35 AUTOMATIC. IT IS 4.10 MANUAL, 3.73 AUTO. Upgrading a 5 speed to 3.73 will be a waste of money because of no real difference.

Att. Andrew
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Old 08-31-2006, 07:08 PM
  #12  
DirtyDave95
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?

I know i would have more fun with a SC, but i would spend more money buying the SC kit i want and the rest of the mods rather than the H/C/I combo. And when i decide to go SC'd i will have a nice time to hold me over untill i save the money for the SC. I dont know, im still debating on if i want to go SC or the trick flow kit.
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Old 08-31-2006, 07:10 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?


ORIGINAL: androdz


ORIGINAL: fassst5.0

3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
GUYS REMEMBER THE CAR FROM FACTORY COMES WITH A 3.55 THE MANUAL AND A 3.33 OR 3.35 AUTOMATIC. IT IS 4.10 MANUAL, 3.73 AUTO. Upgrading a 5 speed to 3.73 will be a waste of money because of no real difference.
Att. Andrew
Not sure where you got that info, but it is completely incorrect. T5 stangs came w/ 2.73's or a 3.08 upgrade. Slushbox auto's came w/ 3.08's or upgrade 3.27's.

3.73 or 4.10 for manual; no less than 4.10 for auto.
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Old 08-31-2006, 07:21 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?

-Trick Flow Track heat H/C/I kit
-BBK Long tube headers
-BBK offroad X-pipe
-Custom cat-back flowmaster 40's with side exhaust.
-Steeda Underdrive pulley
-230amp altenator
-New hyd. Lifters
-BBK 70mm Throttle Body
- MAF and 30lb injector Combo (no need for that much inj if you aren't boosting. 24's will be fine. Go w/ a C&L 76m MAF)
-BBK CAI ( Not really sure which MAF to use with this intake)
-MSD Ignition Box
-MSD Distributor (stick w/ your stock dizzy for now. Most high HP applications actually rebuild the stocker...it's a good dizzy. Maybe just replace your TFI module.)
-MSD 8.5mm Wires
-PLugs (not to sure which ones to use) Autolite 25's
-180* Thermostat
-Steeda Tri-ax shifter MGW
- King Cobra Clutch (or Ram HD)
-Aluminum Flywheel (no need unless you are road racing. *See notes below)-Aluminum Drive Shaft
-Posi rear end (Mustangs have a Trac-Lok. Same idea...make sure you have it rebuilt when they do your gears)-3.90 Gears
-Steeda Strut tower brace (go w/ MM [maximum motorsports])
-Steeda shock tower brace
-Steeda Upper and Lower rear control arms (UPR HD will work just as well and are only ~$200)
-Steeda full length sub Frame connectors (Laurelmountain is much cheaper)
-MM Panhard bar
-Steeda drag springs (not good for daily driver)
-Complete Bilstein Strut/shock package (won't work well w/ drag springs...**see note below)
*Aluminum FW's have less rotating mass and are better for accelerating out of corners. The stock FW (cast iron) or a billet steel FW are better for a daily driver or strip cars. The heavier rotational mass keeps the rpms up between shifts.

**Bilstein, Tokico, and Koni are all designed for handling. FRPP, H&R, or Eibach make springs that work well w/ them. If you want a daily driver, those are great. If you are looking for straight line performance, you need a drag suspension, not a handling suspension. Lakewood 50/50's or 90/10's and drag springs are a good start.
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Old 08-31-2006, 07:23 PM
  #15  
bouchermb
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?

You could get an SC kit for less than the H/C/I combo. Also, unless I'm missing something, I don't think you need a 230 amp alt. If you're going with an electric WP or fan, it still might be overkill.

I like the combo you're talking about though. Good mix of perf. goodies and suspension.
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:12 PM
  #16  
DirtyDave95
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?

ORIGINAL: gspfunk

-Trick Flow Track heat H/C/I kit
-BBK Long tube headers
-BBK offroad X-pipe
-Custom cat-back flowmaster 40's with side exhaust.
-Steeda Underdrive pulley
-230amp altenator
-New hyd. Lifters
-BBK 70mm Throttle Body
- MAF and 30lb injector Combo (no need for that much inj if you aren't boosting. 24's will be fine. Go w/ a C&L 76m MAF)
-BBK CAI ( Not really sure which MAF to use with this intake)
-MSD Ignition Box
-MSD Distributor (stick w/ your stock dizzy for now. Most high HP applications actually rebuild the stocker...it's a good dizzy. Maybe just replace your TFI module.)
-MSD 8.5mm Wires
-PLugs (not to sure which ones to use) Autolite 25's
-180* Thermostat
-Steeda Tri-ax shifter MGW
- King Cobra Clutch (or Ram HD)
-Aluminum Flywheel (no need unless you are road racing. *See notes below)-Aluminum Drive Shaft
-Posi rear end (Mustangs have a Trac-Lok. Same idea...make sure you have it rebuilt when they do your gears)-3.90 Gears
-Steeda Strut tower brace (go w/ MM [maximum motorsports])
-Steeda shock tower brace
-Steeda Upper and Lower rear control arms (UPR HD will work just as well and are only ~$200)
-Steeda full length sub Frame connectors (Laurelmountain is much cheaper)
-MM Panhard bar
-Steeda drag springs (not good for daily driver)
-Complete Bilstein Strut/shock package (won't work well w/ drag springs...**see note below)
*Aluminum FW's have less rotating mass and are better for accelerating out of corners. The stock FW (cast iron) or a billet steel FW are better for a daily driver or strip cars. The heavier rotational mass keeps the rpms up between shifts.

**Bilstein, Tokico, and Koni are all designed for handling. FRPP, H&R, or Eibach make springs that work well w/ them. If you want a daily driver, those are great. If you are looking for straight line performance, you need a drag suspension, not a handling suspension. Lakewood 50/50's or 90/10's and drag springs are a good start.
So go a stock FW or a billit wheel? So what are the point of aluminum FW's?

Which are better for my goin to be setup 50/50's or 90/10's? What are the differences? Where could i find them? What are good springs? The steeda drag springs arent any good?

You could get an SC kit for less than the H/C/I combo. Also, unless I'm missing something, I don't think you need a 230 amp alt. If you're going with an electric WP or fan, it still might be overkill.

I like the combo you're talking about though. Good mix of perf. goodies and suspension.
Whats a good SC that i could get less than the H/C/I combo? Ive been told while running the underdrive pulley set the alt starts to lose power, i read somewhere on the forum that gettin a higher amp alt can fix that... True?
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Old 08-31-2006, 08:37 PM
  #17  
androdz
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?


ORIGINAL: gspfunk


ORIGINAL: androdz


ORIGINAL: fassst5.0

3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
GUYS REMEMBER THE CAR FROM FACTORY COMES WITH A 3.55 THE MANUAL AND A 3.33 OR 3.35 AUTOMATIC. IT IS 4.10 MANUAL, 3.73 AUTO. Upgrading a 5 speed to 3.73 will be a waste of money because of no real difference.
Att. Andrew
Not sure where you got that info, but it is completely incorrect. T5 stangs came w/ 2.73's or a 3.08 upgrade. Slushbox auto's came w/ 3.08's or upgrade 3.27's.

3.73 or 4.10 for manual; no less than 4.10 for auto.

https://mustangforums.com/m_1867366/tm.htm

https://mustangforums.com/m_1896937/...tm.htm#1896937

DO you have a link to where you are getting your information from??

Att. Andrew


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Old 08-31-2006, 08:42 PM
  #18  
FordMustangXBA
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?

With an aluminum flywheel your RPMs will fall off faster cause there isn't as much rotating mass...So when you step on the clutch your RPMs will drop alot more than with the cast iron or billet one. They're better for accelerating out of corners but for straight lines you want to keep your RPMs up.
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Old 08-31-2006, 09:13 PM
  #19  
All4n
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?

7 GRAND for mods? Don't even waste your money on your current motor.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10763

http://performance.thepartsbin.com/b...2&brandid=1933

Get a trick flow intake, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump. You will be set to OWN.
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Old 08-31-2006, 09:18 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: Need some help with mods... Please?

Now that I think about it...That's probably your best route. You'd still have around 2 grand left over to do whatever you wanted, also.
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