Need some help with mods... Please?
#11
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
ORIGINAL: fassst5.0
3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
Att. Andrew
#12
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
I know i would have more fun with a SC, but i would spend more money buying the SC kit i want and the rest of the mods rather than the H/C/I combo. And when i decide to go SC'd i will have a nice time to hold me over untill i save the money for the SC. I dont know, im still debating on if i want to go SC or the trick flow kit.
#13
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
ORIGINAL: androdz
GUYS REMEMBER THE CAR FROM FACTORY COMES WITH A 3.55 THE MANUAL AND A 3.33 OR 3.35 AUTOMATIC. IT IS 4.10 MANUAL, 3.73 AUTO. Upgrading a 5 speed to 3.73 will be a waste of money because of no real difference.
Att. Andrew
ORIGINAL: fassst5.0
3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
Att. Andrew
3.73 or 4.10 for manual; no less than 4.10 for auto.
#14
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
-Trick Flow Track heat H/C/I kit
-BBK Long tube headers
-BBK offroad X-pipe
-Custom cat-back flowmaster 40's with side exhaust.
-Steeda Underdrive pulley
-230amp altenator
-New hyd. Lifters
-BBK 70mm Throttle Body
- MAF and 30lb injector Combo (no need for that much inj if you aren't boosting. 24's will be fine. Go w/ a C&L 76m MAF)
-BBK CAI ( Not really sure which MAF to use with this intake)
-MSD Ignition Box
-MSD Distributor (stick w/ your stock dizzy for now. Most high HP applications actually rebuild the stocker...it's a good dizzy. Maybe just replace your TFI module.)
-MSD 8.5mm Wires
-PLugs (not to sure which ones to use) Autolite 25's
-180* Thermostat
-Steeda Tri-ax shifter MGW
- King Cobra Clutch (or Ram HD)
-Aluminum Flywheel (no need unless you are road racing. *See notes below)-Aluminum Drive Shaft
-Posi rear end (Mustangs have a Trac-Lok. Same idea...make sure you have it rebuilt when they do your gears)-3.90 Gears
-Steeda Strut tower brace (go w/ MM [maximum motorsports])
-Steeda shock tower brace
-Steeda Upper and Lower rear control arms (UPR HD will work just as well and are only ~$200)
-Steeda full length sub Frame connectors (Laurelmountain is much cheaper)
-MM Panhard bar
-Steeda drag springs (not good for daily driver)
-Complete Bilstein Strut/shock package (won't work well w/ drag springs...**see note below)
-BBK Long tube headers
-BBK offroad X-pipe
-Custom cat-back flowmaster 40's with side exhaust.
-Steeda Underdrive pulley
-230amp altenator
-New hyd. Lifters
-BBK 70mm Throttle Body
- MAF and 30lb injector Combo (no need for that much inj if you aren't boosting. 24's will be fine. Go w/ a C&L 76m MAF)
-BBK CAI ( Not really sure which MAF to use with this intake)
-MSD Ignition Box
-MSD Distributor (stick w/ your stock dizzy for now. Most high HP applications actually rebuild the stocker...it's a good dizzy. Maybe just replace your TFI module.)
-MSD 8.5mm Wires
-PLugs (not to sure which ones to use) Autolite 25's
-180* Thermostat
-Steeda Tri-ax shifter MGW
- King Cobra Clutch (or Ram HD)
-Aluminum Flywheel (no need unless you are road racing. *See notes below)-Aluminum Drive Shaft
-Posi rear end (Mustangs have a Trac-Lok. Same idea...make sure you have it rebuilt when they do your gears)-3.90 Gears
-Steeda Strut tower brace (go w/ MM [maximum motorsports])
-Steeda shock tower brace
-Steeda Upper and Lower rear control arms (UPR HD will work just as well and are only ~$200)
-Steeda full length sub Frame connectors (Laurelmountain is much cheaper)
-MM Panhard bar
-Steeda drag springs (not good for daily driver)
-Complete Bilstein Strut/shock package (won't work well w/ drag springs...**see note below)
**Bilstein, Tokico, and Koni are all designed for handling. FRPP, H&R, or Eibach make springs that work well w/ them. If you want a daily driver, those are great. If you are looking for straight line performance, you need a drag suspension, not a handling suspension. Lakewood 50/50's or 90/10's and drag springs are a good start.
#15
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
You could get an SC kit for less than the H/C/I combo. Also, unless I'm missing something, I don't think you need a 230 amp alt. If you're going with an electric WP or fan, it still might be overkill.
I like the combo you're talking about though. Good mix of perf. goodies and suspension.
I like the combo you're talking about though. Good mix of perf. goodies and suspension.
#16
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
ORIGINAL: gspfunk
*Aluminum FW's have less rotating mass and are better for accelerating out of corners. The stock FW (cast iron) or a billet steel FW are better for a daily driver or strip cars. The heavier rotational mass keeps the rpms up between shifts.
**Bilstein, Tokico, and Koni are all designed for handling. FRPP, H&R, or Eibach make springs that work well w/ them. If you want a daily driver, those are great. If you are looking for straight line performance, you need a drag suspension, not a handling suspension. Lakewood 50/50's or 90/10's and drag springs are a good start.
-Trick Flow Track heat H/C/I kit
-BBK Long tube headers
-BBK offroad X-pipe
-Custom cat-back flowmaster 40's with side exhaust.
-Steeda Underdrive pulley
-230amp altenator
-New hyd. Lifters
-BBK 70mm Throttle Body
- MAF and 30lb injector Combo (no need for that much inj if you aren't boosting. 24's will be fine. Go w/ a C&L 76m MAF)
-BBK CAI ( Not really sure which MAF to use with this intake)
-MSD Ignition Box
-MSD Distributor (stick w/ your stock dizzy for now. Most high HP applications actually rebuild the stocker...it's a good dizzy. Maybe just replace your TFI module.)
-MSD 8.5mm Wires
-PLugs (not to sure which ones to use) Autolite 25's
-180* Thermostat
-Steeda Tri-ax shifter MGW
- King Cobra Clutch (or Ram HD)
-Aluminum Flywheel (no need unless you are road racing. *See notes below)-Aluminum Drive Shaft
-Posi rear end (Mustangs have a Trac-Lok. Same idea...make sure you have it rebuilt when they do your gears)-3.90 Gears
-Steeda Strut tower brace (go w/ MM [maximum motorsports])
-Steeda shock tower brace
-Steeda Upper and Lower rear control arms (UPR HD will work just as well and are only ~$200)
-Steeda full length sub Frame connectors (Laurelmountain is much cheaper)
-MM Panhard bar
-Steeda drag springs (not good for daily driver)
-Complete Bilstein Strut/shock package (won't work well w/ drag springs...**see note below)
-BBK Long tube headers
-BBK offroad X-pipe
-Custom cat-back flowmaster 40's with side exhaust.
-Steeda Underdrive pulley
-230amp altenator
-New hyd. Lifters
-BBK 70mm Throttle Body
- MAF and 30lb injector Combo (no need for that much inj if you aren't boosting. 24's will be fine. Go w/ a C&L 76m MAF)
-BBK CAI ( Not really sure which MAF to use with this intake)
-MSD Ignition Box
-MSD Distributor (stick w/ your stock dizzy for now. Most high HP applications actually rebuild the stocker...it's a good dizzy. Maybe just replace your TFI module.)
-MSD 8.5mm Wires
-PLugs (not to sure which ones to use) Autolite 25's
-180* Thermostat
-Steeda Tri-ax shifter MGW
- King Cobra Clutch (or Ram HD)
-Aluminum Flywheel (no need unless you are road racing. *See notes below)-Aluminum Drive Shaft
-Posi rear end (Mustangs have a Trac-Lok. Same idea...make sure you have it rebuilt when they do your gears)-3.90 Gears
-Steeda Strut tower brace (go w/ MM [maximum motorsports])
-Steeda shock tower brace
-Steeda Upper and Lower rear control arms (UPR HD will work just as well and are only ~$200)
-Steeda full length sub Frame connectors (Laurelmountain is much cheaper)
-MM Panhard bar
-Steeda drag springs (not good for daily driver)
-Complete Bilstein Strut/shock package (won't work well w/ drag springs...**see note below)
**Bilstein, Tokico, and Koni are all designed for handling. FRPP, H&R, or Eibach make springs that work well w/ them. If you want a daily driver, those are great. If you are looking for straight line performance, you need a drag suspension, not a handling suspension. Lakewood 50/50's or 90/10's and drag springs are a good start.
Which are better for my goin to be setup 50/50's or 90/10's? What are the differences? Where could i find them? What are good springs? The steeda drag springs arent any good?
You could get an SC kit for less than the H/C/I combo. Also, unless I'm missing something, I don't think you need a 230 amp alt. If you're going with an electric WP or fan, it still might be overkill.
I like the combo you're talking about though. Good mix of perf. goodies and suspension.
I like the combo you're talking about though. Good mix of perf. goodies and suspension.
#17
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
ORIGINAL: gspfunk
Not sure where you got that info, but it is completely incorrect. T5 stangs came w/ 2.73's or a 3.08 upgrade. Slushbox auto's came w/ 3.08's or upgrade 3.27's.
3.73 or 4.10 for manual; no less than 4.10 for auto.
ORIGINAL: androdz
GUYS REMEMBER THE CAR FROM FACTORY COMES WITH A 3.55 THE MANUAL AND A 3.33 OR 3.35 AUTOMATIC. IT IS 4.10 MANUAL, 3.73 AUTO. Upgrading a 5 speed to 3.73 will be a waste of money because of no real difference.
Att. Andrew
ORIGINAL: fassst5.0
3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
3.90s are a little to much if its gona be a daily driver. I'd go with 3.73s or 3.55s if you still want decent gas milage thats what I have and I get around 19mpg and im at like 2k goin 70 in 5th. But if your cars an Auto then 3.90s should be fine
Att. Andrew
3.73 or 4.10 for manual; no less than 4.10 for auto.
https://mustangforums.com/m_1867366/tm.htm
https://mustangforums.com/m_1896937/...tm.htm#1896937
DO you have a link to where you are getting your information from??
Att. Andrew
#18
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
With an aluminum flywheel your RPMs will fall off faster cause there isn't as much rotating mass...So when you step on the clutch your RPMs will drop alot more than with the cast iron or billet one. They're better for accelerating out of corners but for straight lines you want to keep your RPMs up.
#19
RE: Need some help with mods... Please?
7 GRAND for mods? Don't even waste your money on your current motor.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10763
http://performance.thepartsbin.com/b...2&brandid=1933
Get a trick flow intake, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump. You will be set to OWN.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10763
http://performance.thepartsbin.com/b...2&brandid=1933
Get a trick flow intake, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump. You will be set to OWN.