No idle, none at all
09-18-2006, 02:43 AM
#21
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 2,271
RE: No idle, none at all
well i started on tdc, put both rockers on tightened them both down until no lash, spun the motor until #3 valves were both down, did the same thing, and then just followed the firing order around doing the same on every cylinder. Is this right? The exhaust was already set up with no tube coming back to the motor when i got it, so all i had to do was take out all the smog stuff;pump, tubing, etc. and i was done! p.s. no cable, sorry. i think i left it at my g/f's house.
09-18-2006, 03:10 AM
#24
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
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RE: No idle, none at all
You have a roller block meaning you need to adjust the valves right or the pushrods for the lifters will go flying through the valve covers, and or the setup will make no power/ or pistons hit valves
, but you did it wrong yes and I wouldnt drive until you fix this.[
]
A. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up.(its the one , right on the exhaust port of the head, yead where exhaust exits into the header).
B. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder.
1) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the SLIGHTEST bit of resistance.
2) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn ONLY
C. You have now adjusted the #1 intake valve PUSHROD.
You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the SAME intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then BEGIN to CLOSE. When it is ALMOST closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters PUSHRODS are at the base circle of the cam and that there is NO additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point. IN OTHER WORDS UR SET
D. You are now able to repeat this procedure on the remaining cylinders.
, but you did it wrong yes and I wouldnt drive until you fix this.[
]A. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up.(its the one , right on the exhaust port of the head, yead where exhaust exits into the header).
B. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder.
1) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the SLIGHTEST bit of resistance.
2) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn ONLY
C. You have now adjusted the #1 intake valve PUSHROD.
You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the SAME intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then BEGIN to CLOSE. When it is ALMOST closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters PUSHRODS are at the base circle of the cam and that there is NO additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point. IN OTHER WORDS UR SET
D. You are now able to repeat this procedure on the remaining cylinders.
09-18-2006, 03:20 AM
#26
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 4,616
RE: No idle, none at all
PRINT THAT OUT OR ABBREVIATE AND WRITE IT DOWN, DO 1 CYL AT A TIME.
2ND ISSUE, YOU NEED TO FOLLOW THE BOLT AND TORQUE SEQUENCE FOR BOTH THE HEADS AND LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLDS
3RD ISSUE, YOU NEED TO FOLLOW THE TORQE AND BOLT PATTERN FOR THE HEADS AND THERE ARE SOME BOLTS THAT NEED A LITTLE RTV TO PREVENT COOLANT LEAK ISSUES.
Dont worry my first time, I tore the motor down twice and the dizzy was a PITA
Oh and I hate all those old and stuck up Master Techs, that say just bolt it down and go, or tighten a little install with valve covers off and tighten till they quiet then another 1/2 turn. they are dumb and cause fires, blown engines and other things, and make there own lives miserable and then give you your car back.
2ND ISSUE, YOU NEED TO FOLLOW THE BOLT AND TORQUE SEQUENCE FOR BOTH THE HEADS AND LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLDS
3RD ISSUE, YOU NEED TO FOLLOW THE TORQE AND BOLT PATTERN FOR THE HEADS AND THERE ARE SOME BOLTS THAT NEED A LITTLE RTV TO PREVENT COOLANT LEAK ISSUES.
Dont worry my first time, I tore the motor down twice and the dizzy was a PITA
Oh and I hate all those old and stuck up Master Techs, that say just bolt it down and go, or tighten a little install with valve covers off and tighten till they quiet then another 1/2 turn. they are dumb and cause fires, blown engines and other things, and make there own lives miserable and then give you your car back.
09-18-2006, 03:26 AM
#27
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Antonio Tx
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RE: No idle, none at all
ORIGINAL: aode06
2ND ISSUE, YOU NEED TO FOLLOW THE BOLT AND TORQUE SEQUENCE FOR BOTH THE HEADS AND LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLDS
2ND ISSUE, YOU NEED TO FOLLOW THE BOLT AND TORQUE SEQUENCE FOR BOTH THE HEADS AND LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLDS
3RD ISSUE, YOU NEED TO FOLLOW THE TORQE AND BOLT PATTERN FOR THE HEADS AND THERE ARE SOME BOLTS THAT NEED A LITTLE RTV TO PREVENT COOLANT LEAK ISSUES.
09-18-2006, 03:35 AM
#28
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
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RE: No idle, none at all
dude, you have to torque ALL THE HEADS BOLTS TO SPECS AND IN A CERTAIN ORDER , and give them all a light coat of rtv 1/2 inch pass the threads on each bolt, you dont have to remove the heads, or anything, dont panic this stuff can be done in 3 hours or less and youll be happy you did this.
same for the lower intake and its bolts
same for the lower intake and its bolts
09-18-2006, 03:41 AM
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 2,271
RE: No idle, none at all
yes, i torqued all the head bolts, and intake bolts in their order. but i will have to retorque the heads because i will be putting RTV on them this time around
09-18-2006, 03:45 AM
#30
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 264
RE: No idle, none at all
aode06 - I have A b303 cam in my car will this work for me too???
A. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up.(its the one , right on the exhaust port of the head, yead where exhaust exits into the header).
B. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder.
1) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the SLIGHTEST bit of resistance.
2) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn ONLY
C. You have now adjusted the #1 intake valve PUSHROD.
You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the SAME intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then BEGIN to CLOSE. When it is ALMOST closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters PUSHRODS are at the base circle of the cam and that there is NO additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point. IN OTHER WORDS UR SET
D. You are now able to repeat this procedure on the remaining cylinders.
A. Starting with #1 cylinder, turn the engine over until the exhaust pushrod just begins to move up.(its the one , right on the exhaust port of the head, yead where exhaust exits into the header).
B. At this point, stop and adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder.
1) Tighten the rocker until you can roll the pushrod between your thumb and forefinger with the SLIGHTEST bit of resistance.
2) At this point tighten between an additional quarter to half of a turn ONLY
C. You have now adjusted the #1 intake valve PUSHROD.
You will now want to turn the engine over while watching the SAME intake pushrod that you just set, it will go full open and then BEGIN to CLOSE. When it is ALMOST closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. By following this procedure, you are assured that both of the lifters PUSHRODS are at the base circle of the cam and that there is NO additional pre-load applied to them from cam lift at this point. IN OTHER WORDS UR SET
D. You are now able to repeat this procedure on the remaining cylinders.