jameswehner

okay, here it is... 87 5.0..AT, newly rebuilt motor by previous owner, 38000 on new 302, replaced plugs wires, cap and rotor, TPS, ign coil, redid timing, had a saved code about EGR somethin, took to shop..told me MAF... guess what, my make model doesnt use MAF, gunna add eventually, anyway, mechanics cant figure it out, at low temps runs okay, not good, but okay, operating temp, bogs down hard, backfires sometiomes, and shifts hard.. tranny is okay, feels ign related... guys, im pullin my hair out.. and im bald the way it is.. i need some expert advice.. in denver CO, if anybody knows of a shop or knows anything that will fix this please help... mostly stock, wanna get it runnin good b4 i swap comp and add maf, gears, heads and so forth..., not illiterate when it comes to cars, but i cant get it, neither an my other motor head familymembers, so its stock boggin feels like ign problem, between 2800 and 3500 now, shifts hard because tranny doesnt know what the efff the motor is doin....HELP!!!!!!!!!! need an expert here or a shop number in denver

vristang

Well I would find a different shop if they wanted to replace your MAF. LOL

Work the EGR problem. That has been known to cause some serious running issues.

Is that the only code you are getting now.

jason

jameswehner

thats all my "MAF" shop told me,,, and whats sad is that hes a good friend, i just think hes crazy at this point... im takin it to a mustang shop tomorrow...if you can think of anything it'd be helpful

Stanger90

I had a similar problem on my car after changing distributors when mine had quit working. It was a fast switch seeing I had another one complete. The car ran good until it warmed up, even warm below 4000 rpm it was ok. But once at operating temp at 4000 rpm it was like a rev limiter kicked in (bogging and missing). I changed the coil, messed with timing and fuel pressure for a week but nothing helped. Then I changed the TFI module on my distributor and put it back in, walla problem solved!!! Now she bangs off 6k without a problem only wish I could get it to run a bit better in town, but that's a different problem (big camshaft) need a tuner or chip..
Good Luck

Stanger90

I had a similar problem on my car after changing distributors when mine had quit working. It was a fast switch seeing I had another one complete. The car ran good until it warmed up, even warm below 4000 rpm it was ok. But once at operating temp at 4000 rpm it was like a rev limiter kicked in (bogging and missing). I changed the coil, messed with timing and fuel pressure for a week but nothing helped. Then I changed the TFI module on my distributor and put it back in, walla problem solved!!! Now she bangs off 6k without a problem only wish I could get it to run a bit better in town, but that's a different problem (big camshaft) need a tuner or chip..
Good Luck

Stanger90

I had a similar problem on my car after changing distributors when mine had quit working. It was a fast switch seeing I had another one complete. The car ran good until it warmed up, even warm below 4000 rpm it was ok. But once at operating temp at 4000 rpm it was like a rev limiter kicked in (bogging and missing). I changed the coil, messed with timing and fuel pressure for a week but nothing helped. Then I changed the TFI module on my distributor and put it back in, walla problem solved!!! Now she bangs off 6k without a problem only wish I could get it to run a bit better in town, but that's a different problem (big camshaft) need a tuner or chip..
Good Luck

jameswehner

whats a TFI module?????

sdmaker

tfi= thick film ignition. that is the ignition module thats on the distributor.

jameswehner

is that a wiring harness??? im confused, is it the connector into the side of the distributor?

I3atR!ce

well if it runs good cold and and bad hot i would check the o2's that happened to me and it ended up being my pass side o2