Suttering/idle problem
#11
RE: Suttering/idle problem
ok.. I cleaned the IAC with carb cleaner and cutips, but it did NOT solve my problem.
-Before I cleaned the IAC, the car was taking a while to start up.. unless it was already warmed up.
-The check engine light comes on a few minutes after starting it up.
-At around 5krpm the car just sputters and won't go any farther through the rpm range
The mods on the car:
-3.73 gears
-bbk cold air intake
-bbk 70mm throttle body
-full exhaust(not sure if it has cats.. I just bought the car saturday)
-MSD ignition
I am not sure when the plugs were changed
I did run through fuel injector cleaner, but that didnt work.
The car seems to idle fine, but I dont get why it sputters from time to time and wont go past 5krpm....... maybe spark blowout?
I need a datalogger or atleast a way to check the CEL
-Before I cleaned the IAC, the car was taking a while to start up.. unless it was already warmed up.
-The check engine light comes on a few minutes after starting it up.
-At around 5krpm the car just sputters and won't go any farther through the rpm range
The mods on the car:
-3.73 gears
-bbk cold air intake
-bbk 70mm throttle body
-full exhaust(not sure if it has cats.. I just bought the car saturday)
-MSD ignition
I am not sure when the plugs were changed
I did run through fuel injector cleaner, but that didnt work.
The car seems to idle fine, but I dont get why it sputters from time to time and wont go past 5krpm....... maybe spark blowout?
I need a datalogger or atleast a way to check the CEL
#15
RE: Suttering/idle problem
Check your email and see if you can get a factory mass air and I have a factory tb if you want to buy it cheap and see if your car runs any better. I have a 65mm tb and my car ran better with it but ran much worse with an aftermarket mass air. Let me know
#16
RE: Suttering/idle problem
yup dude had the same problem, Cleaned my IAC, nutting, spent 400 bucks at ford and nuttin, came home cleaned my MAF, worked like a miricle but stilled idled weird, changed my o2's advanced my timing and BOOM car ripps asphault! (timing was at 8* now im at 15!)
#18
RE: Suttering/idle problem
Suggestions……
- Resetting the base idle
- Setting the TPS voltage (Setting it between .8vdc - 1.0vdc is OK, no need to follow the .999vdc setting myth)
- Timing calibration
- Finding possible vacuum leaks.
- DIY KOEO/KOER Self-Tests and Cylinder Balance Test
and if the above link to m y 5 o h.com still doesn’t work, use
- How to run a KOEO, KOER Self-Test codes scan and Cylinder Balance Test instead.
Need to access the system for the failure codes, having the CEL on = hard failure in the system.....no calibration procedure will fix it until you id what the system failure is. You can throw parts(=money) at it, but you will be guessing.....use the ECM, it's also a tool....OH!...in your SN95 the diagnostic connector is behind the RH strut tower, not on the driver side as with the fox bodies.
- Resetting the base idle
- Setting the TPS voltage (Setting it between .8vdc - 1.0vdc is OK, no need to follow the .999vdc setting myth)
- Timing calibration
- Finding possible vacuum leaks.
- DIY KOEO/KOER Self-Tests and Cylinder Balance Test
and if the above link to m y 5 o h.com still doesn’t work, use
- How to run a KOEO, KOER Self-Test codes scan and Cylinder Balance Test instead.
Need to access the system for the failure codes, having the CEL on = hard failure in the system.....no calibration procedure will fix it until you id what the system failure is. You can throw parts(=money) at it, but you will be guessing.....use the ECM, it's also a tool....OH!...in your SN95 the diagnostic connector is behind the RH strut tower, not on the driver side as with the fox bodies.
#19
RE: Suttering/idle problem
Alright
I pulled the codes with an OBD1
they are:
332= insufficient EGR flow detected
311= thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test
314=thermactor air system/fualt during engine run self-test/ left side
Also, after seeing people had problems with the EGR capped.. I noticed the header on the left side of the car(viewing from front) has a spot where something connects and is capped... could this be my problem?? I am guessing the owner before me capped the EGR, which is causing this
local shop said $45 to custom weld the EGR back
sound like my problem???
I pulled the codes with an OBD1
they are:
332= insufficient EGR flow detected
311= thermactor air system/fault during engine run self-test
314=thermactor air system/fualt during engine run self-test/ left side
Also, after seeing people had problems with the EGR capped.. I noticed the header on the left side of the car(viewing from front) has a spot where something connects and is capped... could this be my problem?? I am guessing the owner before me capped the EGR, which is causing this
local shop said $45 to custom weld the EGR back
sound like my problem???
#20
RE: Suttering/idle problem
TAKE OFF YOUR MASS AIR FLOW AND SPRAY SOME CARB CLEANER ON THE SENSOR IN THE MASS AIR NOT TO MUCH . THEN BLOW IT OUT WITH A BLOW GUN NOT TO CLOSE YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SENSOR . THAT SHOULD STOP IT FROM CHOKE . THAT IS WHAT I DID WITH MY STOCK AIR FLOW . I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM .