irish1

Well, bad news, my motor is done.
Finally got my friend (serious pro mechanic/racer/mechanic tech instructor) to stop by and take a look at
my Mustang. He screwed a guage into my block to check for oil pressure
.....ugh it was low by a mile....65-70 when cold, let it warm up and it idles at 8...rev to 2500 rpm
it is at 17-18...thats with a fresh oil change(10w-30). So I have internal issues
which honestly pissed me off because I bought the car based on it being a fresh motor, with a receipt
to prove it. He went digging and eventually just looked at me and said you need a new motor,
a shortblock at least. Soo, I am not a rich guy, what should I do, try to remove the engine myself,
strip it down and hope it is ok after getting whatever is fubar, fixed and some machining done?
try to find a cheap shortblock 302?
try to find a cheap 351 shortblock?
will my t-5 bolt up to a 351 and survive the added torque?

Please give me some ideas/costs guys, I'm kinda bummed out atm.

93 LX FiveO

do a compression test, u could just have a bad pump or some serious sludge build up.

try running that Seafoom stuff too

HACKGT350

do a compression test, do the sea foam, and add some slick 50 engine treatment in there. and if that doesnt help get the oil pump checked out

grabbem88

well if it was rebuilt...first thing that came to mind(actually two) the pick up tube isn't placed right,but you said 60+ at start up?..then 8 at idle..that sounds like a very bad break in...do a compression test/checked plugs lately?

grabbem88

don't be adding all that BS crap...band-aids don't do **** for ya

wine_maker

man you said yopu have the paper work >>> did he put in a new crank>> have it polished then put std barings in > or did he do a grind and match the barings> if not the first or the last > do cmp test if that is good >>> grind crank and match baring>>>
and hope it is not the cam baring >
I would do cam,rod ,and ,main barings

irish1

I think he did get a expensive rebuild, then threw a junkyard motor in it when he sold it.
Car has been seafoamed, didn't smoke a bit when I did it, plugs are new.
I have been messing with the timing a lot lately but I don't think I messed up the rod
the distributor sits on. Planning to run a compression test on the motor tomorrow.
The motor receipt is not recent, it shows a full rebuild within the last two years,
I have driven the car maybe 100 miles total, mostly it sleeps in my garage.
Only lately did I start to work on it seriously, recplaced upper/lower/converted to mass
air the hard way/plugs/cap/rotor/flushed rad/changed oil/replace t-stat.
Receipt shows factory crank turned, forged pistons/rods/gt-40 heads/e-303
and the car is fast still. But I'm getting realllly suspicious, I smell a rat, and he is
starting to chew on my wallet bigtime. Anyone have general cost ideas or thoughts on my 351 ideas?

Twisted

One question...and I'm not trying to be smart: What in the world does a compression test have to do with low oil pressure?!!

90mustang5.8

t-5 + 351 = buying a different trans...trust me they don't go togerther!! lol

Evil_F

Yeah, loosin' oil pressure... The motor is shot. I will give you like $500 for your car. [sm=rolleyes.gif].... I would say there is a 95% chance it is the pump. Because it will not hold pressure when the oil is thin and warm. If your motor was shot, your car would be smokin' because your oil and water was mixing, causing you to burn it.