5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 12-04-2006, 11:47 PM
  #11  
silver91gt
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ORIGINAL: stocksuspension

u need a whole piston designed for a 3.4 stroke.. i u use the .060 pistons u have now u will be about 1/2 inch positive deck!!!!
agree, stroker pistons are shorter so they dont stick up the extra stroke, if that makes sense
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Old 12-04-2006, 11:59 PM
  #12  
OneFine89Mustang
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.60 over is waaaaaaaay too much
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Old 12-05-2006, 01:01 AM
  #13  
drewguere
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I bought it already bored...so I didn't have a choice
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Old 12-05-2006, 01:07 AM
  #14  
drewguere
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ORIGINAL: silver91gt


ORIGINAL: stocksuspension

u need a whole piston designed for a 3.4 stroke.. i u use the .060 pistons u have now u will be about 1/2 inch positive deck!!!!
agree, stroker pistons are shorter so they dont stick up the extra stroke, if that makes sense
But if I bought a crankshaft and connecting rods designed for the stroker kit...wouldn't the shorter connecting rods soak up the extra soak?

And could someone verify that I would need the bottom end machined

And what is this all about cement?
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Old 12-05-2006, 01:19 AM
  #15  
samseed101
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.60 over? I don't see many people that dare to go beyond .40 over. That's really pushing it. Wow.
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Old 12-05-2006, 01:23 AM
  #16  
drewguere
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Im a daring guy I guess...haha

But like I said, I didn't do the overbore. I bought the car like that, so that wasn't my idea.

Can someone please explain the cement thing to me?
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Old 12-05-2006, 05:10 PM
  #17  
drewguere
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Anyone?
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Old 12-05-2006, 10:48 PM
  #18  
tinman
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No real secret. Sold by Summit, Jegs and everyone else.
It's not really cement like you would pour the garage floor with. It's sort of a concrete product that is used in motor blocks to fill or partly fill them. Makes the block a lot stiffer so things don't move around as much.
Yep, it adds some pounds to things but it's sort of an 'out' used by drag racers all the way down to stock eliminater.
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Old 12-06-2006, 01:22 PM
  #19  
drewguere
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But if I bought a stroker crank and stroker connecting rods wouldn't that work?

Because the connecting rods are shorter, so they wont go up as high and hit the valves...And the crank Im looking at says it has stock diameter journals, so I dont believe I would need the bottom end of the block machined...correct?

So all I would basically need would be the crankshaft and rods
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Old 12-06-2006, 01:30 PM
  #20  
gspfunk
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You'll have to clearance the block for the stroker crank. I'm not sure about the rest.... .060 is going to give you issues on a stock block. You'll probably run really hot.
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