Few head questions
12-09-2006, 09:08 PM
#1
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Few head questions
I have seated me heads (not torqued yet), I want to know what I torque aluminum heads too (Twisted heads.) ALso how do I adjust roller rockers? I have stud mount and wasn't sure how to go about that I think they are already set, but not sure. Any help is appreciated...
12-09-2006, 09:37 PM
#2
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RE: Few head questions
follow the instructions for the head bolts/studs you purchased it will say what to torque them to
to adjust studmount rockers for a hydraulic roller lifter you first have to turn the engine over by hand untill the cam is on the base circle, (no lift) then simply tighten the adjuster nut till there is 0 lash, (till all the slack is taken up, but still able to spin the pushrod) then turn it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, do it the same for all valves.
I have heard you can make a bit more power if you leave them at 0 lash.
to adjust studmount rockers for a hydraulic roller lifter you first have to turn the engine over by hand untill the cam is on the base circle, (no lift) then simply tighten the adjuster nut till there is 0 lash, (till all the slack is taken up, but still able to spin the pushrod) then turn it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, do it the same for all valves.
I have heard you can make a bit more power if you leave them at 0 lash.
12-09-2006, 09:37 PM
#3
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RE: Few head questions
Torque the head bolts to 75(thats what mine were torqued to), aluminum is softer so it has tendancies to pull threads out if you tighten too much. Also, only torque the intake bolts to 20 ft/lbs. Dont use the stock intake bolts, mine broke off in the head, and I almost didnt get it out cause it was so close to the head. Use new ARP, or other grade 5 or 8 bolts for it instead.
Rockers: Bring each pistoon to TDC or where the springs have preload on them, then tighten down the rocker nut against the rocker arm. then tighten the locknut one turn further than that and its set. Do this for each cylinder and for each rocker. Make sure to pre load the valve spring first. That should get you what you want. Let me know if you need more help
Rockers: Bring each pistoon to TDC or where the springs have preload on them, then tighten down the rocker nut against the rocker arm. then tighten the locknut one turn further than that and its set. Do this for each cylinder and for each rocker. Make sure to pre load the valve spring first. That should get you what you want. Let me know if you need more help
12-09-2006, 09:43 PM
#4
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RE: Few head questions
ORIGINAL: XSRACINGGT
Torque the head bolts to 75(thats what mine were torqued to), aluminum is softer so it has tendancies to pull threads out if you tighten too much. Also, only torque the intake bolts to 20 ft/lbs. Dont use the stock intake bolts, mine broke off in the head, and I almost didnt get it out cause it was so close to the head. Use new ARP, or other grade 5 or 8 bolts for it instead.
Rockers: Bring each pistoon to TDC or where the springs have preload on them, then tighten down the rocker nut against the rocker arm. then tighten the locknut one turn further than that and its set. Do this for each cylinder and for each rocker. Make sure to pre load the valve spring first. That should get you what you want. Let me know if you need more help
Torque the head bolts to 75(thats what mine were torqued to), aluminum is softer so it has tendancies to pull threads out if you tighten too much. Also, only torque the intake bolts to 20 ft/lbs. Dont use the stock intake bolts, mine broke off in the head, and I almost didnt get it out cause it was so close to the head. Use new ARP, or other grade 5 or 8 bolts for it instead.
Rockers: Bring each pistoon to TDC or where the springs have preload on them, then tighten down the rocker nut against the rocker arm. then tighten the locknut one turn further than that and its set. Do this for each cylinder and for each rocker. Make sure to pre load the valve spring first. That should get you what you want. Let me know if you need more help
you need the valve to be closed, and the cam on the base circle for hydraulic roller lifters.
12-09-2006, 09:53 PM
#5
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RE: Few head questions
ORIGINAL: silver91gt
you need the valve to be closed, and the cam on the base circle for hydraulic roller lifters.
ORIGINAL: XSRACINGGT
Torque the head bolts to 75(thats what mine were torqued to), aluminum is softer so it has tendancies to pull threads out if you tighten too much. Also, only torque the intake bolts to 20 ft/lbs. Dont use the stock intake bolts, mine broke off in the head, and I almost didnt get it out cause it was so close to the head. Use new ARP, or other grade 5 or 8 bolts for it instead.
Rockers: Bring each pistoon to TDC or where the springs have preload on them, then tighten down the rocker nut against the rocker arm. then tighten the locknut one turn further than that and its set. Do this for each cylinder and for each rocker. Make sure to pre load the valve spring first. That should get you what you want. Let me know if you need more help
Torque the head bolts to 75(thats what mine were torqued to), aluminum is softer so it has tendancies to pull threads out if you tighten too much. Also, only torque the intake bolts to 20 ft/lbs. Dont use the stock intake bolts, mine broke off in the head, and I almost didnt get it out cause it was so close to the head. Use new ARP, or other grade 5 or 8 bolts for it instead.
Rockers: Bring each pistoon to TDC or where the springs have preload on them, then tighten down the rocker nut against the rocker arm. then tighten the locknut one turn further than that and its set. Do this for each cylinder and for each rocker. Make sure to pre load the valve spring first. That should get you what you want. Let me know if you need more help
you need the valve to be closed, and the cam on the base circle for hydraulic roller lifters.
Oh, my bad. Thanks for the correction Silver.
12-09-2006, 09:56 PM
#6
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RE: Few head questions
and usually the bolts closer to the intake will get 10ft/lbs more than the lowers.
for my AFR heads I used head studs and torqued them to 75ft/lbs in 3 steps, and then the upper bolts got 85 ft/lbs
for my AFR heads I used head studs and torqued them to 75ft/lbs in 3 steps, and then the upper bolts got 85 ft/lbs
12-10-2006, 02:25 AM
#7
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RE: Few head questions
I was just looking at summit and found the manual for my cranes and they said rotate the crank until both valve are about the same height (per cylinder) then tighten the rockers until you can feel resistance on the pushrod. Sound right? Anyways I am a bit concerned about my stock valve covers not clearing enough, anyone know if it will work. I heard something about modifying the baffle of the oil fill tube.
12-10-2006, 05:33 AM
#8
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RE: Few head questions
nope they wont clear....just get the trick flow valve covers they are the cheapest covers that fit without having to get an intake spacer, they are 100 bucks well 125 with the breather tube. The reason they fit is bc they are rounded instead of square like most covers. I have a set on my car and they are nice. no complaints what so ever.
ORIGINAL: gr84u
I was just looking at summit and found the manual for my cranes and they said rotate the crank until both valve are about the same height (per cylinder) then tighten the rockers until you can feel resistance on the pushrod. Sound right? Anyways I am a bit concerned about my stock valve covers not clearing enough, anyone know if it will work. I heard something about modifying the baffle of the oil fill tube.
I was just looking at summit and found the manual for my cranes and they said rotate the crank until both valve are about the same height (per cylinder) then tighten the rockers until you can feel resistance on the pushrod. Sound right? Anyways I am a bit concerned about my stock valve covers not clearing enough, anyone know if it will work. I heard something about modifying the baffle of the oil fill tube.
12-10-2006, 05:44 AM
#9
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RE: Few head questions
Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on. I think the easiest and fastest way is to just follow the firing order. For the 5.0 HO and 351w the firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Start with the No. 1 cylinder (passenger side front).
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop. You are now ready to adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so.
4. Now pull up and down (or rotate) the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the movement of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one quarter to one half turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
Wrench/Nut Turning ⅛ - ¼ - ½
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop. You are now ready to adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so.
4. Now pull up and down (or rotate) the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the movement of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one quarter to one half turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
Wrench/Nut Turning ⅛ - ¼ - ½
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
12-10-2006, 09:43 PM
#10
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RE: Few head questions
Should I tighten the rocker arms snug so I can see when the exhaust is about to lift, then re-adjust? Also is there a special thing I need to know to buy the right valve covers for clearance, or should any aftermarket valve cover pretty much do, or can I even modify mine? Anyone got hints on rotating the engine by hand, I was having heck of a time with a torque bar even. I can't pick a good place where I can watch the valves.