Well it looks like my a/c compressor, or more specifically it's clutch mechanism, took a crap this morning. I do not have the money to replace this. And even if I did, I cannot justfiy the $$$ while it is 50* outside and I won't need it for several months.

Anyhow, I want to just remove the whole compressor and bypass it. Do I really need that idler pulley or can I just buy a shorter belt? I have all the stock components and am on a VERY tight budget, so any corners I can cut are great.

BTW, I am considering removing the smog pump. I am not worried about passing emissions, I have that covered. Will that cause any wierd smells or smoke though? I don't want any extra attention brought to myself than I have to. My 100 lb. foot does that already.

If I were to remove both, is it absolutely necessary to get those pullies? This is my daily driver so I need it working by Tuesday morning so I can get to work.

 

If ive said it once, ive said it a thousand times.... we cant help you until you tell us what your driving

 

when you replace the compressor, remember to blow out the condensor, and all the lines, because when the compressors explode, they leave metal in the lines... you can buy some ac cleaner at any auto parts store. pour it in, and get a air blower, and blow it out.
i would also replace the dryer ,and the orphis, or expansion valve, whatever it is on whatever car you have.

 

Sorry I thought I had my sig turned on.

1993 Mustang LX 5.0L

Bone Stock

 

Leave the compressor on... just unclip the wire going to it and it won't run anymore. When you get the $ to fix it, all you'll need is a clutch, not the whole compressor... not very expensive. As for the smog pump, buy a pump eliminator pully ($50) or leave the smog pump onand just unhook the hoses going to it and plug them.

 

the smog pump can be removed and bypassed with a smaller belt

 

He said his compressor is OK, the clutch is bad. Read the question carefully before you give advice or you'll have the poor guy doing more than he needs to. He just wants to get it running before Tuesday and doesn't even want to get the clutch fixed right away. If he does what I said, it will only take about 20 minutes, won't cost a dime and can be driven tonight.

 

as far as pulling all the ac stuff and getting the shorter belt is possible all you have to do is take a 100 ft tape measure and wrap it around the pulleys get a measurement and get the shorter belt but without modifying the bracket you may have some rub on the idler pulley. if you pull the smog pump nothing will change other than maybe having more trouble getting inspection if you have emmisions in your state.

 

I should probably clarify a little more in detail. The outer-most portion of the clutch has pretty much shattered in the center.

The outer ring with belt ribs is in tact and the portion of the clutch that connects to the crankshaft of the compressor is in tact. but all of the filler area of the clutch is toast. When you start the car, it screams like a banshee from hell that was just castrated.

A little background info. About a month and a half ago I had a pssshhhhhing sound come fron the engine compartment while driving normally. (maybe 1/8 throttle at the speed limit) and the engine shuddered and the a/c went worm. I guess I had an o-ring lose holding ability or something. So I haven't used the a/c or defroster since. I guess I should have unplugged that wire that was just mentioned. I figured I would replace all the o-rings this spring and have it recharged at that time.

Anyhow, that pulley is not going to turn without further damage, so I am going to have to bypass it for the time being. Who knows, I might be able to remove the entire a/c if I can get a different DD this summer like I hope.

 

i would tell you an easy way to fix it but i cant read good enough, sorry, i wont give anymore advice.