jc_92135

First off what a great site, found it, looked around and decided to register soon after!!
So the '93 in my sig. has a cracked head, I need a reliable daily driverand money's tight; I'm looking for ideas for a solid top-end rebuild on this motor, and can't afford a complete rebuild yet (347 will be in the works someday). Judging from how it runs and the appearance of the engine bay, someone has been into the motor recently. Compression check showed 130-145across all 8 holes, I"m *thinking* that is a good sign for the bottom end??? I'm a diesel guy used to 400 psicompression!I can get used heads for 50 bucks each so my plan is to have 2 heads gone through and do both sides, as well as change the rear to 3.55 from 3.08. It's also in dire need of a clutch, and money permitting I'd like to put acam in it while I have the motor out. It already has a cold air intake, 2 1/2 inch straightpipes, and shorty headers that look like ***** of spaghetti!

If anyone has suggestions on cams, clutches, or tricks to do while the motor is out, I'm all ears! Thanks in advance, I look forward to learning/contributing here.


Joe

jc_92135

anybody?

93 LX FiveO

how are u lookin to do this?

we need some kind of price or goal to get started

ZachW04Stang

For the clutch I'd recommend a centerforce. Mine is great, pedal isn't stiff at all and the clutch grabs really hard.

First of all why are you pulling the motor if your just working on the top end? How do you know the head is cracked? If the head's cracked wouldn't it cause a compression leak in a certain cylinder? I would save my money from doing a cam swap unless your putting a good set of aftermarket heads on. If you do pull the motor make sure you checkthe bearings, check the cylinder walls for any major scoring orpittingand replace the rear main, oil pump, timing chain. while you have it out.

nmerrill

^^^what he said^^^
I was also wondering wny the compression is good, but a cracked head?

MustangMadness7

Befroe you go buying new heads for it, do not buy the stock E7's again! Run to a junkyard and pick up a set of heads off a pre97.5 explorer. They are normaly about 100$ a set, so the same as u were gonna pay anyways. They flow way better than the stock 5.0 heads and fit perfectly. The heads are the most restricting part stock, so replace those. Then if you do decide to put a new cam in it will make more of a difference with the better heads.

jc_92135

Thanks for the replies everyone, rarely get time to get on here lately!
I wanted to pull the motor and do the top end because it needs a clutch, and motor mounts as well. If I can get away with leaving the motor in and just lifting it a little to do the mounts, I'll go that route and pull the tranny to get to the clutch a little later down the road...it still has some life in it. I don't have an exact dollar figure in mind, but as littleas possible to getthis thing done right and dependable!
As far as it having compression with a cracked head, I have no clue how---it appears it's cracked around a water jacket. It weeps waternear the front 2 head bolts on the driver's side, and the crack is visible from the second bolt hole, to the first and around to the front of the head where it stops after almost1/4". Can also catch it with the edge of a knife. I completely expected the front cylinder compressionto be low and have a green spark plug, but both compression and the plug looked good. I will wait on a cam, and will look at those explorer heads. Don't the Mustangs have roller-tip rockers? Do the Explorer heads have these as well? Also, should I replace the lifters and pushrods while the topis off?

I really appreciate the help guys, I'm slowly coming up to speed on this thing!


Joe

ooticamitica

well than if it has compression how do you know its leaking besides a little crack? maybe somethign else is cracked, does it run?

jc_92135

It does run, it leaks a good amount of water from the head after it has been running for a while; I wish I could get a decent pic of it!
Buddy at Ford suggested the head bolts may have stretched, allowing them to weep water and recommended I pull them out one at a time, coat the threads/shoulder with Permatex, and replace them. I tried this(torquing them to spec provided with new bolts)and after a couple days of driving it was leaking again, and this is when I noticed the crack in the head. It has been sitting in the garage since then.

hellas85stang

130-145 is ok but each cylinder needs to be withina lil more of each other..when ya check them wait several min and look to see if it leaked down a lost comp..did ya take out all spark plugs when ya checked...