LesteR723

I know this probably isnt in the right place but i coudlnt find the right one, and i know theres a lot of smart people here so...

i have this compressor:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...amp;lpage=none

I want to paint my car by myself, but i cant find any spray guns with cfm or PSI ratings or they dont match my tank. What would work and give me good results?

And for primer... should i buy the spray on primer or the primer in a spray can?

ncascademtns

I bought the $80 Craftman sprayer at Sears. Works great. I regulated the pressure to 40 PSI and adjusted it as needed on the sprayer.Paint turned out great!
If you have spot bodywork, use a rattle can. If you have a lot of body work, spray it on or replace body parts. Use a sealer before you spray the base color coat.

hellas85stang

get a hvlp gun.....hi volume low pressure....easier on paint and not quit as much pressure is needed...you can get a good one at a pwn shop,or sears..anywhere startin around50$ i think been awhile since i bought one

Arno

Just about any quality sprayer will do, HVLP is the new hot style to get. They use less airand have less paint kick back or clouding due to the low pressure. They cost a bit more than standard guns, but with your compressor you might want to go with this option. Sustained CFM is the key when painting. You dont want a drop in line pressure in the middle of a stroke, having to wait for the compressor to catch up. I use a 60 gal comp when I paint for that reason. Plus I dont have an HVLP gun.

JeffUtica

That's because the tank is too small. I barely get buy with my Craftsman 6HP, 25 Gal tank with HVLP. SometimesI have to wait for the compressor to shut off to get optimal material flow or contantly adjust for drop in CFMs as the tank emptys.
As far as guns a siphon, gravity or HVLP will work (not with your compressor). HVLP's is prefered.
If you're spraying the entire car, don't waste your time or money on rattle cans, unless it's spot painting. Buy2 component primer/sealer. They are catylized (use hardener) which is better for adhesion and color hold out.
If the factory paint is still in good condition, wash, degrease, wet sand w/#400 wet, dry, degrease, tape, degrease, tack,and paint.

aode08

did anyone mention, respirator, adequate ventilation and a dust free environment?

it takes alot of time in prep work. Its easier on you if you use SAND SPONGES; better on the hands.



I rented a sandblaster, removed all lights, and mirrors, taped off trim and windows, stood back to prevent any damge to any material , then took her to the metal.


Smoothed out imperfections, dry sanded, soft sanded, air compressed to blow all the dust off, primered, wet sanded, sealed, base, paint (mixed with a tab of clear.), clearcoat.


30 days later polished with 3m agents. You dont have to do all that though youll prob get the same result as I did, I just didnt want my stuff peeling off in a year or two you know.

Second, I chose a unique color combo(red 2part, orange.2pt, yellow.2pt= tangerine red) to seperate myself from the average red mustang and those who see and want to immitate.


Practice on an old barrel from ur local recycling yard to perfection, then make money by painting more cars

Arno

"respirator".......That or tangerine boogers!

aode08

the gun, the snap on truck has the pro HVLP with accessories for like $225, same ones dealer use and very easy to clean. But the cheaper ones Ive seen work just as good. but not the accessories.

Arno

Cosco had a set of four pretty good guns for about $200. They work very well.

JeffUtica

I couldn't see paying $400+ for a Sata Jet until I tried theirdigital 2000. They're awesome.Sprays better then my DeVilbiss Finish Line.