5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

o2 sensor

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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:36 PM
  #11  
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mattdel, i dont know how to disconnect the wiring harness so im just gonna throw more money into the car and hope it is the o2.
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:05 AM
  #12  
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Default RE: o2 sensor

ORIGINAL: 92cobra

update, when the car is cold it can easily go up to 5k without hesitation in the least.
Lucky13's comments are sound, but it is not just the use of the O2's that changes between cold OL, and warm running. The fuel tables are different, and the ACT/ECT will have an impact as well.

It sounds like the O2's are just going tobe replaced.
Let us know how that works...

Good Luck,
jason
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:35 AM
  #13  
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considering i know aboslutely nothing about cars, i have to start with what the mechanics suggest and considering you guys also say the o2, im going to go ahead and pay the 180 to have them do it. I will letcha know how it goes.

Next up for a "mod" im thinking cai or just a k&n filter, does this really add rwhp?
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:38 AM
  #14  
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lucky13 also stated it takes about 30 seconds for the o2 sensors to warm up, my car will continue to hit 5k for several minutes until its "warmed, like around 180".
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 12:56 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: o2 sensor

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lucky13 also stated it takes about 30 seconds for the o2 sensors to warm up, my car will continue to hit 5k for several minutes until its "warmed, like around 180".
Yes, but the car stays in OL until the coolant temp is warm (during OL the O2's are still ignored). I think the actual temp is around 150-160F (?)


The point to realize is that there is a problem with how the car runs in CL, which is not affecting OL.
but just to make sure...
IF you hammer the throttle to the floor, what happens? I am talking about once the car is at full temp.
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:14 PM
  #16  
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ORIGINAL: luckythirteen13

can you take the car above 3k rpms imidiately after starting the motor?

to see if its the o2's, let the completely cool down. when the motor has been sitting for a few hours, get in the car, start it up and imidiate go down the street and see if you can get the rpms above 3000. the o2's dont send a signal when they are cold. it takes about 30 seconds for them to warm up and send a signal to the computer. if you can go above 3000rpms right after starting the car when the o2s are cold, the you know you have bad o2s. if you still cant get above 3k, then the problem is some where else
That is one of the most ridiculous things I have seen posted on this forum.....period.
Your car should free rev in neutral or in gear all the way to the rev limiter all the time. Open loop (before the o2's heat up) will not prevent maximum engine speed. You just aren't metering fuel per the MAF/MAP or o2's. DO NOT install new o2's on this recommendation. Or you can just send me $100 and I will kick you in the *****. Same difference.
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:33 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: o2 sensor

ORIGINAL: 92cobra

mattdel, i dont know how to disconnect the wiring harness so im just gonna throw more money into the car and hope it is the o2.
Are you serious guy???? the ISC is the big thing attached to the side of your throttle body... go unplug it
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #18  
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i really wish this was posted before i left. I went out and replaced the o2s and ofcourse the problem still isnt solved. Now that makes 225 for the erg valve replacement and 120 for 2 new o2 sensors, sweet i just love waisting money. Anyone have any other suggestions?
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:51 PM
  #19  
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Your code 12 means that during the KOER (Key On Engine Running) self test, the PCM was unable to control the RPM. It was too high. In other words the PCM could not bring the idle down as low as it wanted. This means that the IAC is physically stuck open, the base idle is set too high, or there is a vacuum leak. I suspect a vacuum leak as this will create a lean condition and likely some surging as well. Bottom line - the idle is too high. If you disconnect your battery for 15 minutes and the idle comes down - you have a TP sensor issue. I can explain this in detail if you want. But your idle is too high, bottom line.
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #20  
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my idle shouldnt be the issue considering im idling between 6-800rpms =/



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