well you may have a worn timing chain..if you want to knock off some carbon off the pistons I use water..yes water.you can pull the little hose from the t'b to the v/c and poor very slowly small amounts of water thur hose while rev'in the engine around 2k when idle starts to fall quickly stop using water for a sec while rpm recover..I have pulled as must as 60 oz thur an engine..VERY SLOWELY if you put something in front of your tail pipes you'll see the crap flying out

 

check egr

 

i have heard about using water i know back in the day people used to take like a spray bottle and spray a little into the carb and it would have the same affect as like using seafoam and other stuff

 

Thanks, fellas. Chitown, my engine temperature is usually anywhere above 195 when this is happening...as measure on my Autometer gauge. Pro, I've heard that before...that people can feel a difference when using cheaper plugs than Autolites. I guess I'll swap them out and see if it helps. Thanks. Ooty, yeah, I just lowered my timing to 10* this morning...until I figure out what's causing the pinging. I took a nice long hot drive today, and had no pinging at 10*. 2Kwik, I guess I will do a water treatment next. I'm in the middle of my second Techron treatment right now, so I 'll see how that goes first. I've actually seen carbon fly out of motorcycle tailpipes, during a water decarb. No doubt it works. Phalcone, I've checked my EGR system twice...every component of it. It seems to be functioning properly. I may just replace it eventually, because I don't completely trust my EGR valve for some reason...just a feeling, I guess. I got a price on one at Autozone. It was almost 80 bucks! What? Anyway, thanks for the help, folks.

 

Oh, thanks for the article, Pro. I'm gonna read it later tonight.

 

racing fuel works good as seafoam...fill your car up and top off with racing fuel.

 

haha out in cali where he is it would cost him like 250 bucks to fill his tank with race fuel not worth it at all

 

If you really want to be 200% sure the EGR is not the problem, simply disconnect and plug the EGR vacuum line.....the ECM will automatically delete/bypass the EGR function w/out any problems. This simple verification test will make sure you don't spend $80 in a part that could be working OK (no failure codes)....besides, by doing so, the system will not "add" the spark advance calculation needed for the EGR gases, since the valve will stay closed......my 2¢.

 

Thanks, Joel. I think I'll try that. Good info.