samseed101

The GT40ps came out about midway through 1997. You need to use different headers because of the spark plug location issues. I think the GT40P's also flow a bit better and have higher compression than their older counterparts. I can't recall the exact numbers but I rememebr coming across that info when i was looknig at GT40P's myself.

Shelty

thanks for thelast bit of infosamseed101. now all I have to do is wait for this damnsnow to melt away so I can go junkyard hopping. the entire state of PA got hammered last week.

thanks everyone as well. this website has saved my butt in several situations.

LTnone

the P's, while a bit hotter stock, had less potential than the standard GT40's, I believe because of lift capabilities.

88BlueGT

Dude, NOW is the time to go looking at the junkyards. Noone is there because noone wants to go out in the cold (like you and I lol) to get what they want so the junkyards are usually packed this time of year. And plus, tons of people crash their cars in the winter which is unfortunate to them but a definite plus to us. Throw on some gloves, a hoody and some thermals and get your a$$ out there!

LTnone

+1

Shelty

I wish I could get on that at this exact moment. dont have a lot of cash at the current moment(books this semester ate all my bennies...and waiting for a tuition reimbursment check..) I'll surely hit a yard once I get the check and deposit it...


hey what kind of gaskets would I use? thought just came to me. wouldI use a standard set of Fel-pros or do I need to get a different set, also will I need to get special head bolts?

I'm compiling a list of parts to purchase, once I get the green...

LTnone

Standard head gaskets are fine. If you get a set and the coolant holes look too small, don't worry- that's intentional, it regulates coolant flow. Definitely get new head bolts. I recommend ARP. (I might as well tell you this, if you do end up doing this...) If you buy ARP, also pick up some ARP moly lube (assembly lubricant) and some ARP thread sealer. Put sealer on the bolts that go through the water jacket (the smaller ones), and lube on the long bolts that go into blind holes. ARP recommends a specific torque spec for iron heads, I can't remember what it is...maybe 80 ft/lbs? If it is 80, torque the bolts first (following the pattern) to 10, 20, 30, 60, 80. Loosen them, and do it again. Repeat until you've torqued them down 5 times. Sequence if you don't know is

..9 5 1 3 7
10 6 2 4 8

Shelty

cool, thanks LTnone.

I cant wait till I get the parts together.

My '86 has a 3.8 in it now, and its pretty quick as it lies, now, but I'm looking for more power. plus, I can't wait to get rid of that damn CFI unit.