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Carb Question

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Old 02-23-2007, 07:08 PM
  #21  
Chitown racer
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Default RE: Carb Question

ORIGINAL: 85 Stang

So the choke flap should stay open? and there isnt a spring?
Well it is a manual choke, so yes. Unless you MANUALLY close it the choke should stay open. Thier is no spring thatg you forgot. Thier should just be alittle (for lack of a better word) arm with a hole in it, on the passenger side of the carb. This "arm" should open and close the choke when you move it back and forth. If you do not have a choke cable hooked to itthen you need to make sure the choke flap stays wideopen when the engine starts. You need to somehow wire that little arm so that the choke flap is all the way open and cannot close. It will idle likecrap until it warms up, especially in cold weather, but that will eliminate the chance the choke is your problem. If the choke is your problem and you decide to hook a choke cable to it then you'll need to adjust the choke high idle screw.

As far as Edelbrock carbs go, I can find as many people who dont like Holleys as I can Edelbrocks. Its been a battle for decades, as too whichone isthe better carb. Back in the day when dinosaurs roamed the earth and muscle cars came from the factory with dual 4bbl carbs the Carter design(now Edelbrock) carb came stock on as many cars as the Holley did. My dads 1968 Dodge went 143,000 miles on the same Carter/now Edelbrock style carb. Its now currently gone 35000 miles, since its restoration with a flawless performing Edelbrock carb. I have personally had both a holley and edelbrock carb that no matter what I did I couldnt get it to work right after I rebuilt it. After 20 + years of working on h i performance cars and trucks I have come to the conclusion that one brand is not better then the other. Its really all a matter of personal preference and which one you have more experience workingwith. Ive also learned that no matter which brand it is, they all make the occasional bad apple that cant be rebuilt to run right, no matter what you do.
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Old 02-23-2007, 07:30 PM
  #22  
85 Stang
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Default RE: Carb Question

Ok see that hole was throwin me off me and my brother in law both thought I forgot a spring or somthing. Ill prob just leave it the way it was.
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Old 02-23-2007, 07:34 PM
  #23  
Arrid Extra Dry
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Default RE: Carb Question

you have a BAD vacume leak somewhere!!!
but if you buy a carb, buy a quick fuel carb!!
i ran holleys and BGs for years, and quick fuel is alot better.
but thats just my opinion, and everyone has one
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Old 02-23-2007, 07:36 PM
  #24  
HACKGT350
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Default RE: Carb Question

ORIGINAL: Arrid Extra Dry

you have a BAD vacume leak somewhere!!!
but if you buy a carb, buy a quick fuel carb!!
i ran holleys and BGs for years, and quick fuel is alot better.
but thats just my opinion, and everyone has one
haha i like your user name its different
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:56 PM
  #25  
Evil_F
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Default RE: Carb Question

QuickFuel carbs are just souped' up Holley carbs. Like said above. Check your idle screw. Sounds as if your idle screw is holding the carb valves to open. In other words, it is like you have your foot a little on the gas. 3k is high in the RPMs for a small vacuum leak. Plus make sure you got your brake booster line on. That can be easily forgotten to do at times.
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Old 02-24-2007, 12:46 AM
  #26  
tinman
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Default RE: Carb Question

A 600 Eddy carb will be fine on a351W.
back when ford was building them with carbs they never had anything bigger on them anyway.
Sounds like you got a vacumn leak someplace.....
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Old 02-24-2007, 03:07 AM
  #27  
crazyhorse
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Default RE: Carb Question

make sure you don't have a gasket or spacer under the carb stopping it from closing.
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Old 02-24-2007, 05:26 AM
  #28  
85 Stang
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Default RE: Carb Question

I do have a spacer but the butterflys are close..I just bought a rebuild kit for the carb hopefully this will work. I did try sprayin around the carb and didnt notice anything. The brake booster line is also hooked up. Hopefully this kit does the trick Thanks all for the advice
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