Pedastal mounst 1.7s
#1
Pedastal mounst 1.7s
OK im gonna do my head swap next weekend, and ive been looking up and reading, but still dont really understand how you put them back on.
Do you lacte TDC on the #1 cyclinder and them toruque the dow to 18-20 lbs or whatever is it or what exaclty, im confused still
Thanks for the help
Do you lacte TDC on the #1 cyclinder and them toruque the dow to 18-20 lbs or whatever is it or what exaclty, im confused still
Thanks for the help
#2
RE: Pedastal mounst 1.7s
For whatever rocker you're doing make sure the lifter for that rocker is on the cam's base circle, and you finger tighten the capscrew until you get zero lash(right when all the clearance is taken up, enough so that you can no longer spin the pushrod with light finger effort) THEN you torque to 18-20ft-lbs and while you do it keep track of how far you turn the capscrew with the torque wrench, it should be between 1/4 and 1 full turn of the capscrew, that'll give you the .020-.060 preload you need. Get a manual, it'll tell you how to set the engine at TDC and which rockers you can adust in what order etc
#3
RE: Pedastal mounst 1.7s
ORIGINAL: 67mustang302
For whatever rocker you're doing make sure the lifter for that rocker is on the cam's base circle, and you finger tighten the capscrew until you get zero lash(right when all the clearance is taken up, enough so that you can no longer spin the pushrod with light finger effort) THEN you torque to 18-20ft-lbs and while you do it keep track of how far you turn the capscrew with the torque wrench, it should be between 1/4 and 1 full turn of the capscrew, that'll give you the .020-.060 preload you need. Get a manual, it'll tell you how to set the engine at TDC and which rockers you can adust in what order etc
For whatever rocker you're doing make sure the lifter for that rocker is on the cam's base circle, and you finger tighten the capscrew until you get zero lash(right when all the clearance is taken up, enough so that you can no longer spin the pushrod with light finger effort) THEN you torque to 18-20ft-lbs and while you do it keep track of how far you turn the capscrew with the torque wrench, it should be between 1/4 and 1 full turn of the capscrew, that'll give you the .020-.060 preload you need. Get a manual, it'll tell you how to set the engine at TDC and which rockers you can adust in what order etc
#4
RE: Pedastal mounst 1.7s
TDC on compression will have both valves shut, and the base sircle is the part of the cam where there's no lift at all. The manual should tell you the sequence, how to set tdc, then which valves to adjust, how much to rotate, which valves to adjust, how much to roate etc
#5
RE: Pedastal mounst 1.7s
If you've got a Chilton manual, it tells you how to tighten down the adjustable roller rockers for the Cobra 5.0 HO, it's the same method. I'm not sure about the Haynes manual, it should have something in there about it.
#6
#7
RE: Pedastal mounst 1.7s
Yo usually zero lash is considered when the push rod no longer moves up and down. A lot of the time, with a hydraulic lifter, if you spin it you will push the pushrod into the lifter before it starts to get difficult to turn. And don't torque an adjustable rocker. Go 1/4 to 1 turn past zero lash. Usually 1/4.
#9
RE: Pedastal mounst 1.7s
Hah, yeah, if you can't get zero lash or you don't get enough turns before torque, pushrods are too short, if you get 0 lash, and then turn past 1 turn before torque, you need shorter pushrods or pedestal shims.
#10
RE: Pedastal mounst 1.7s
ORIGINAL: OnyxCobra
If you have the correct pushrod length there should be no problems at all.
If you have the correct pushrod length there should be no problems at all.
Thanks fior the help thought guys, i beleivei can get it whopped as long as there isnt any other problems, i justy hope i dont tear down that far and then have to do even more, I hope my cyclinder walls look nice too...maybe.....[&:]