K-Member Manufacturers and ratings
05-18-2007, 02:33 PM
#11
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central New York
Posts: 3,850
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
ORIGINAL: AdderMk2
If you plan on running a full kit, coil overs and all, UPR is the way to go. they cost a little less than the AJE racing setup.
If you plan on running a full kit, coil overs and all, UPR is the way to go. they cost a little less than the AJE racing setup.
05-18-2007, 03:12 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SC
Posts: 579
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
ORIGINAL: r.barn
Tubular K-members are not the best thing for the street
they save weight at the sacrafice of strength.
check out the www.maximummotorsports.com k-member
saves weight and adds strength
Tubular K-members are not the best thing for the street
they save weight at the sacrafice of strength.
check out the www.maximummotorsports.com k-member
saves weight and adds strength
05-18-2007, 03:18 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,450
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
i did my research and aje and pa racing are absolutely the best as far as quality and fittment. upr would be a third choice and the king of ebay k member deals. search any mustang site and you'll find this to be true of the general concensus. you'll also find nightmare stories about d&d, qa1, and granatelli....stay away...although some have no issues with them it's a gamble. i went with pa racing and it's perfect.it bolted up perfectly, gives tons of room, very strong/light, and it didn't move the wheels anywhere in the well.the one bad thing about upr is that they use chromoly which doesn't give as much as some like on a street car. definitely do it while you engine is out! it makes it so easy
05-18-2007, 03:51 PM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SC
Posts: 579
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
did mine with the engine in. wasnt a big deal. As far as UPR i think they are the best (not because i own one) but for the money they are the best. As far as asking other sites.....I ask the people who sell all of them (Holcomb Motorsports) and they told me that UPR was the way to go. They sell the most of them.
As far as durability.....TWO WORDS. TIM LYNCH! the guy runs 4.30's in the 1/8th and uses UPR suspension products. Also runs mid 6's in the quarter. I think they are strong enough!
As far as durability.....TWO WORDS. TIM LYNCH! the guy runs 4.30's in the 1/8th and uses UPR suspension products. Also runs mid 6's in the quarter. I think they are strong enough!
05-18-2007, 05:16 PM
#15
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 87
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
I agree the MM looks really stout and it has everything in the kit you need.
I would avoid chromoly on the street due to the brittleness of it, on the otherhand D.O.M. .120 Wall Mild Steel is very strong. I talked to Team Z Motorsports Today for quite awhile. The K should hold up under street driving conditions. Especially with add Gussets in all the corners and tabs to ensure durability. Their kit is 699.00 with starnge coil over kit. and there new CC Plates are going to be around 150.00 which will have a Bearing in it and not a bushing (similar to AJE, PA and D & D. They make it all in house as well. The guy seemed really knowledgeable and humble.
I also found out with the 94-95 Spindles you can have the correct Ball Joint put on to match your spindle conversion. Not only is the 87-93 Taller, it is also a littel skinnier which only adds to bump steer. They do make a sleeve kit that goes over the 87-93 Ball Joint for the 94-95 Spindle....
Its still a toss up though, I have heard good and bad things about D & D, UPR, QA1, and the AJE. The PA seems to be reasonably priced and everybody has good things to say about it.
Also the Team Z Like some of the others drops the rack 1.5 to accomodate realtionship between stering rod and A arm but leaves the wheel in the exact stock position.
I would avoid chromoly on the street due to the brittleness of it, on the otherhand D.O.M. .120 Wall Mild Steel is very strong. I talked to Team Z Motorsports Today for quite awhile. The K should hold up under street driving conditions. Especially with add Gussets in all the corners and tabs to ensure durability. Their kit is 699.00 with starnge coil over kit. and there new CC Plates are going to be around 150.00 which will have a Bearing in it and not a bushing (similar to AJE, PA and D & D. They make it all in house as well. The guy seemed really knowledgeable and humble.
I also found out with the 94-95 Spindles you can have the correct Ball Joint put on to match your spindle conversion. Not only is the 87-93 Taller, it is also a littel skinnier which only adds to bump steer. They do make a sleeve kit that goes over the 87-93 Ball Joint for the 94-95 Spindle....
Its still a toss up though, I have heard good and bad things about D & D, UPR, QA1, and the AJE. The PA seems to be reasonably priced and everybody has good things to say about it.
Also the Team Z Like some of the others drops the rack 1.5 to accomodate realtionship between stering rod and A arm but leaves the wheel in the exact stock position.
05-18-2007, 11:10 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,760
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
ORIGINAL: turbostang21
i did my research and aje and pa racing are absolutely the best as far as quality and fittment. upr would be a third choice and the king of ebay k member deals. search any mustang site and you'll find this to be true of the general concensus. you'll also find nightmare stories about d&d, qa1, and granatelli....stay away...although some have no issues with them it's a gamble. i went with pa racing and it's perfect.it bolted up perfectly, gives tons of room, very strong/light, and it didn't move the wheels anywhere in the well.the one bad thing about upr is that they use chromoly which doesn't give as much as some like on a street car. definitely do it while you engine is out! it makes it so easy
i did my research and aje and pa racing are absolutely the best as far as quality and fittment. upr would be a third choice and the king of ebay k member deals. search any mustang site and you'll find this to be true of the general concensus. you'll also find nightmare stories about d&d, qa1, and granatelli....stay away...although some have no issues with them it's a gamble. i went with pa racing and it's perfect.it bolted up perfectly, gives tons of room, very strong/light, and it didn't move the wheels anywhere in the well.the one bad thing about upr is that they use chromoly which doesn't give as much as some like on a street car. definitely do it while you engine is out! it makes it so easy
The worst one is D&D. They sell because they are cheap.
05-18-2007, 11:20 PM
#18
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Manchester, MA
Posts: 808
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
ORIGINAL: nick_thames
Just because its thinner and lighter doesnt mean its weaker! The Maximum kit is Overpriced anyhow! I dont see how it can be bad for the street. Its not like he will be doing the Baja 1000 on his way to work everyday!
ORIGINAL: r.barn
Tubular K-members are not the best thing for the street
they save weight at the sacrafice of strength.
check out the www.maximummotorsports.com k-member
saves weight and adds strength
Tubular K-members are not the best thing for the street
they save weight at the sacrafice of strength.
check out the www.maximummotorsports.com k-member
saves weight and adds strength
personally i would go with the Griggs Racing sla, but i dont have 5 grand to dump just on the front suspension
05-19-2007, 12:16 AM
#19
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 87
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
No RoadRacing, and 5k isnt really that much when you put what is at stake. I dont want to offset the geometry though.
I want something that is built here(USA) where I can talk to somebody that has knowledge of their part.
Its weird that alot more people have been saying that the D & D isnt all that, now...
I want something that is built here(USA) where I can talk to somebody that has knowledge of their part.
Its weird that alot more people have been saying that the D & D isnt all that, now...
05-19-2007, 02:33 AM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SC
Posts: 579
RE: K-Member What Else is Needed???
ORIGINAL: notch5oh
you dont road race do you? they are expensive because they dont just take measurments form the stock k member then build one with tubing, they do research and completly redo the k member
personally i would go with the Griggs Racing sla, but i dont have 5 grand to dump just on the front suspension
ORIGINAL: nick_thames
Just because its thinner and lighter doesnt mean its weaker! The Maximum kit is Overpriced anyhow! I dont see how it can be bad for the street. Its not like he will be doing the Baja 1000 on his way to work everyday!
ORIGINAL: r.barn
Tubular K-members are not the best thing for the street
they save weight at the sacrafice of strength.
check out the www.maximummotorsports.com k-member
saves weight and adds strength
Tubular K-members are not the best thing for the street
they save weight at the sacrafice of strength.
check out the www.maximummotorsports.com k-member
saves weight and adds strength
personally i would go with the Griggs Racing sla, but i dont have 5 grand to dump just on the front suspension
Heck the next guy that says, "whats the easiest way to shed some pounds on a mustang"? I think im going to tell him to order a CARBON FIBER BODY! Jeez. I'll stand by the parts that I BUY! But What do i know, Ive only driven a 6 second 1/8mile drag car!!!!