automatic transmision
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9,092
From: las vegas, nv
RE: automatic transmision
have you checked to be sure it has enough oil in it. there is only one band and thats for OD so if its slipping in all gears you have bad clutches or just not enough oil in it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 11
From:
RE: automatic transmision
Having built many AOD transmissions I can tell you that if thereIS enough fluid in it, then you have more problems than just the band. Usually 1 of 2 things happen, the3-4 drum clutches go bad, and/or the overdrive servo. Depending on how many miles you put on it, the band may be saved if it was the overdrive servo.
The overdrive servo, (factory ford) is junk. The seals go bad, and it cant apply enough pressure anymore. More than likely if you have 80-100,000 miles on the trans, and its slipping, its time fora rebuild anyways. There are ways to make an AOD bulletproof, but takes some dough, and not worth it unless you are doing a high horsepower application 450hp or more. Otherwise I would recommend a manual transmission. Here are the things I built mine with and have never had to touch it again.
Art Carr full manual valve body withW/O overdrive button with transbrake
Beaumann engineering 2" wide overdrive band kit
Ford motorsport wide ratio kit (4r70w) (this also allows for the larger drums to add more clutches)
C6 modified input shaft
Modified pump
9" billet front 3500 stall torque converter (handmade byMidwest Converternot the tci production crap)
Heavy duty overdrive servo, these are billet, and I beleive they are called an A++
B&M hammer ratchet shifter
Scatter shield- actually helps in the structure of the case, a good thing for 500hp and more applications where second gear hits on the track are prone to bust the case.
A good trans temp gauge.......your transmission can be lost very fast due to heat. Early detection can save you alot of money down the road. Even a plugged cooler can do a new transmission in within only a few miles.
The overdrive servo, (factory ford) is junk. The seals go bad, and it cant apply enough pressure anymore. More than likely if you have 80-100,000 miles on the trans, and its slipping, its time fora rebuild anyways. There are ways to make an AOD bulletproof, but takes some dough, and not worth it unless you are doing a high horsepower application 450hp or more. Otherwise I would recommend a manual transmission. Here are the things I built mine with and have never had to touch it again.
Art Carr full manual valve body withW/O overdrive button with transbrake
Beaumann engineering 2" wide overdrive band kit
Ford motorsport wide ratio kit (4r70w) (this also allows for the larger drums to add more clutches)
C6 modified input shaft
Modified pump
9" billet front 3500 stall torque converter (handmade byMidwest Converternot the tci production crap)
Heavy duty overdrive servo, these are billet, and I beleive they are called an A++
B&M hammer ratchet shifter
Scatter shield- actually helps in the structure of the case, a good thing for 500hp and more applications where second gear hits on the track are prone to bust the case.
A good trans temp gauge.......your transmission can be lost very fast due to heat. Early detection can save you alot of money down the road. Even a plugged cooler can do a new transmission in within only a few miles.
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9,092
From: las vegas, nv
RE: automatic transmision
ORIGINAL: dkubistaracing
Having built many AOD transmissions I can tell you that if thereIS enough fluid in it, then you have more problems than just the band. Usually 1 of 2 things happen, the3-4 drum clutches go bad, and/or the overdrive servo. Depending on how many miles you put on it, the band may be saved if it was the overdrive servo.
The overdrive servo, (factory ford) is junk. The seals go bad, and it cant apply enough pressure anymore. More than likely if you have 80-100,000 miles on the trans, and its slipping, its time fora rebuild anyways. There are ways to make an AOD bulletproof, but takes some dough, and not worth it unless you are doing a high horsepower application 450hp or more. Otherwise I would recommend a manual transmission. Here are the things I built mine with and have never had to touch it again.
Art Carr full manual valve body withW/O overdrive button with transbrake
Beaumann engineering 2" wide overdrive band kit
Ford motorsport wide ratio kit (4r70w) (this also allows for the larger drums to add more clutches)
C6 modified input shaft
Modified pump
9" billet front 3500 stall torque converter (handmade byMidwest Converternot the tci production crap)
Heavy duty overdrive servo, these are billet, and I beleive they are called an A++
B&M hammer ratchet shifter
Scatter shield- actually helps in the structure of the case, a good thing for 500hp and more applications where second gear hits on the track are prone to bust the case.
A good trans temp gauge.......your transmission can be lost very fast due to heat. Early detection can save you alot of money down the road. Even a plugged cooler can do a new transmission in within only a few miles.
Having built many AOD transmissions I can tell you that if thereIS enough fluid in it, then you have more problems than just the band. Usually 1 of 2 things happen, the3-4 drum clutches go bad, and/or the overdrive servo. Depending on how many miles you put on it, the band may be saved if it was the overdrive servo.
The overdrive servo, (factory ford) is junk. The seals go bad, and it cant apply enough pressure anymore. More than likely if you have 80-100,000 miles on the trans, and its slipping, its time fora rebuild anyways. There are ways to make an AOD bulletproof, but takes some dough, and not worth it unless you are doing a high horsepower application 450hp or more. Otherwise I would recommend a manual transmission. Here are the things I built mine with and have never had to touch it again.
Art Carr full manual valve body withW/O overdrive button with transbrake
Beaumann engineering 2" wide overdrive band kit
Ford motorsport wide ratio kit (4r70w) (this also allows for the larger drums to add more clutches)
C6 modified input shaft
Modified pump
9" billet front 3500 stall torque converter (handmade byMidwest Converternot the tci production crap)
Heavy duty overdrive servo, these are billet, and I beleive they are called an A++
B&M hammer ratchet shifter
Scatter shield- actually helps in the structure of the case, a good thing for 500hp and more applications where second gear hits on the track are prone to bust the case.
A good trans temp gauge.......your transmission can be lost very fast due to heat. Early detection can save you alot of money down the road. Even a plugged cooler can do a new transmission in within only a few miles.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 11
From:
RE: automatic transmision
It was year 2000 that I built that trans, so bear with me as I would need to find my notes. But I believe there was 8-9 clutches in the forward drum, and 5 or 6 in the 3-4 drum. 4 intermediates. and with the full manual valve body means replacing u-joints often. The thing I like the most is being able to shift into overdrive at wide open throttle and it will snap into overdrive just like the rest of the gears. I can remember that the stock trans, you would have to let off the gas to get it to shift into overdrive and then it would usually shift back out of overdrive if you even gradually put it to the floor.
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9,092
From: las vegas, nv
RE: automatic transmision
ORIGINAL: 94StinkinLincoln
thats y u get an aode[8D] btw, what would u recommend for a 450hp 331 stroker n/a as far as an aode? rebuild or buy new one?
thats y u get an aode[8D] btw, what would u recommend for a 450hp 331 stroker n/a as far as an aode? rebuild or buy new one?
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,763
From: louisiana
RE: automatic transmision
the shop has been reccomended by a master tech. that was my auto teacher. they wanted $1,300 for a basic rebuild and that came with a converter. what yal think? i want a edge converter though.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,234
From: PA
RE: automatic transmision
My last rebuild ran $1460 or so and came with a new (stock) convertor.
As long as all NEW parts are used for the rebuild and the shop guysknow what theyre doing you should be ok for $1300.
As long as all NEW parts are used for the rebuild and the shop guysknow what theyre doing you should be ok for $1300.
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