Run an internally balanced forged crank with H-beam rods and forged pistons. Put the main girdle on it with a zero balance flexplate and dampner and Pray to the Gods of hot rodding and have fun.

 

waste fo money.... the block will never handle it... might as well just spray a 300 shot into a bone stock block and see how long it lasts..... itll be cheaper

 

You cant just weld steel to cast iron.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...ronpreheat.asp

 

hahaha....wow that was a good one, i almost thought he was serious....

oh, god.....say it aint so!!!

 

yeah as a welder and a machinist i'll have to say this wont work.

A) as stated you cant weld steel to cast iron and expect it to work.

lets forget about "A" and pretend you made it that far. your next hurdle is.....

B) steel and iron expand and contract at different rates which would stress the block worse

now lets say "A" and "B" weren't an issue, you'd still have......

C) what would stop the block from cracking next to your added support.

its the same thing with the bottom end, even if you got splayed caps by themselves, there isnt enough meat in the bottom to be drilling for these caps - so if you DO drill for them, your just weakening the block. also take note that even stock caps don't usually break, its the block itself above the caps where the cap is bolted to the block. how are you going to strengthen that?

your best bet has also been posted. getting an internally balanced rotating assembly with a forged crank, ultra light weight rods and pistons, main studs and a girdle, and a excellent balance job - along with a good deburring, and shot peening is your best bet at a long living stock small block. having an earlier block, as well as a low overbore (.020 instead of .030 will keep a little more meat in there) is also a plus.

 

if you want to run a 400 shot your going to need a dart block. welding things into the valley area wont do sh*t. you have a valley girdle already, its called a lower intake manifold. the main stud girdle is enough to stop cap walk without welding but it wont let you hold any more hp.

 

You could always run the 400 shot and practice welding the block back together.....

 

[sm=youreright.gif]ok i guess you guys are right, i will have to break the news to him that its go with a aftermarket block, or he will be pickin up the pieces the second that muchnitrious enters the cylinders.

 

you don't have to weld steel to cast you can always weld cast to cast. the time, effort and money involved would dictate purchasing an aftermarket block or wearing a dunce hat everywhere you go. and steel can be welded to cast using high nickel rods. http://www.thefabricator.com/Metallu...cle.cfm?ID=570

 

yes steel can be welded to cast its called disimilar welding, this i know being a certified speciality welder and certified welding inspector for 12 years now. as far as the block cracking under welding stress the way to stop this would be to preheat the block before welding and peen the weld deposit each pass and finally post weld heat treat the finished product. which you are not setup nor experienced enough to perform. the only way you wont weaken the block is to apply weld metal overlay to the area that you plan to weld by atleast 2 times the weld deposition area. in other words buy a damn dart block and be done with it.