mattdel

ok so i got to work on a 97 Intrepid today, thanks to my boss[:@]
no brakes, pedal went right to the floor, no resistance whatsoever, master cylinder empty.
after a few minutes of peekin around, a quick vacuum test showed the booster was dead.
so i recommended the master as well, and did both.
woohoo! now we have a pedal.

now for the good part.

both rear bleeders on the wheel cylinders, were, well lets say, looked older than me.
so after some torching and a pair of vice grips, i busted them free and cleaned them out.
i go up in the air with it, while a co-worker attempts to bleed it.
nothing. no fluid coming from either rear cylinder.

i ran out of time to go any further with it today..
but i'm wondering, is it possible that the heat from the torch caused both wheel cylinders to "weld" themselves shut?
i've never personally seen what a wheel cylinder looks like on the inside... im not sure if "over heating" them would cause this..

the only other part of the system is the proportioning valve, and I can only assume that it worked before it was towed in.

94 G STANG

One way to find out, loosen up the bolt going to the cylinder and see if its getting any pressure there, you might have air in the system i hope you bench blead the master cylinder before hooking it up.

ZachW04Stang

Could be the master cylinder wasn't bled completely. I doubt the torch melted the wheel cylinders, they would have melted where you could see it. Sometimes you may have to open and close the bleeder 15-20 times if the system was really dry before anything even comes out.

mattdel

bench bleeding only makes the final on-car bleeding a few minutes quicker, not technically necessary.

mattdel

well, see whats really gettin me is that even with the bleeders completely out, nothing comes out when you push the pedal. not a drop.

i even tryed the dreaded manual vacuum bleed with my vacuum pump... nada.

mattdel

pro, adder, where are you guys? any techs?

grr...

i think i'm just gonna pull the line off the prop valve and see whats up from there...

stocksuspension

there is a spring inside the wheel cilinder, u probly have a huge air pocket, but if u want u can open up the line at the proportioning valve
and see if u have fluid
also mybad!!! does the car have abs, if so u may have to cycle the modulator valve to truly bleed the system

mattdel

no abs

stocksuspension

open all bleeder screws, keep the resovoir topped of at all times, pump the the brakes till fluid shoots out, the bleed the first wheel were fluid shoots out

mattdel

i got the front 2 bled perfectly. the car will stop under its own power, it just nose dives. i can't send it out like that.
i had 0 pedal until i bled the fronts, now its nice and hard, but without rears.