stroker questions
#1
stroker questions
I was looking into stroker kits for a nitrous application, and I found a pretty decent set-up including a cast steel crank and a decent set of 5.4" rods. My question is, would the block need modification to fit the longer stroke, and how much power can the stock forged pistons handle reliably?
#2
RE: stroker questions
Yes, you would need to machine the block some. Since the crank would be wider it would contact the oil rails. The cylinders would need to be bored out and some other things I cant think of.
The stock forged pistons can handle quite a bit, but not as much as they could since the rods and crank are cast steel. Maybe 400's?
Edit - oh yeah, how much they can handle also depends on where your geting the power from (nitrous, boost, etc.)
The stock forged pistons can handle quite a bit, but not as much as they could since the rods and crank are cast steel. Maybe 400's?
Edit - oh yeah, how much they can handle also depends on where your geting the power from (nitrous, boost, etc.)
#3
RE: stroker questions
The rods I was looking at were forged and rated at 700 hp, so they wouldn't be a weak point. As for the crank, I heard, at least for cast steel cranks made for SBC's, that they have performed flawlessly in applications over 500 hp. I was hoping to do a slight N/A build, using a moderate cam and aim for a CR to match, 1.6/1.6 roller rockers, ported and milled gt40 heads, gt40 intake, a 150 shot of nitrous, and the basic bolt-ons.
Since it requires machining, i might as well have the block bored .030 over and get a nice set of pistons. Or maybe just screw the idea of stroking it, heh.
Since it requires machining, i might as well have the block bored .030 over and get a nice set of pistons. Or maybe just screw the idea of stroking it, heh.
#4
RE: stroker questions
do not use a cast steel crank for race application. and yea you might wanna bore it if its the stock block just to make sure the cylinders are straight and not warped due to age. i would just buy a whole new shortblock if i were you.
#5
RE: stroker questions
Well, I can get my hands on a cast steel crank for $300 and forged rods for $200. If i skip out on the machine work, it seems like a pretty cheap build. I know alot of people who use cast steel cranks in race and street applications under 600 hp, and they don't run into any problems. Forged parts are nice, but I'm not made of money. I'm still just thinking of what I want to do. I just got the car and its off the road for the winter, and I'd like to get to know it a bit before I heavily modify it.
But, if you know of a way I can get my hands on a quality shortblock for under $2000, I'd be glad to know.
But, if you know of a way I can get my hands on a quality shortblock for under $2000, I'd be glad to know.
#7
RE: stroker questions
as far as block work to use the stroker stuff all you got to do is notch the bottom of the block at the bottom of the cly.bores a bit it can be done with a die grinder.go ahead and get your self some pistons cuz your stockers wont work due to longer rods and more stroke the pistons will hang out the top of the block due to the pin height. so you sould go ahead and get it bored.
#8
RE: stroker questions
ORIGINAL: Lizardking50
Well, I can get my hands on a cast steel crank for $300 and forged rods for $200. If i skip out on the machine work, it seems like a pretty cheap build. I know alot of people who use cast steel cranks in race and street applications under 600 hp, and they don't run into any problems. Forged parts are nice, but I'm not made of money. I'm still just thinking of what I want to do. I just got the car and its off the road for the winter, and I'd like to get to know it a bit before I heavily modify it.
But, if you know of a way I can get my hands on a quality shortblock for under $2000, I'd be glad to know.
Well, I can get my hands on a cast steel crank for $300 and forged rods for $200. If i skip out on the machine work, it seems like a pretty cheap build. I know alot of people who use cast steel cranks in race and street applications under 600 hp, and they don't run into any problems. Forged parts are nice, but I'm not made of money. I'm still just thinking of what I want to do. I just got the car and its off the road for the winter, and I'd like to get to know it a bit before I heavily modify it.
But, if you know of a way I can get my hands on a quality shortblock for under $2000, I'd be glad to know.
#9
RE: stroker questions
if you buy a good stroker kit from someplace like DSS or Coast High, you should not have to clearance anything in the block but always check for clearance between the rod bolts and the bottom of the cylinders and the oil pan rail just to make sure there is not going to be a problem. you get the right kit and you don't have to worry about the pistons sticking up out of the bore either as the rod length and pistons will be correct for the application.
#10
RE: stroker questions
you can get a short block from almost any of the popular 5.0 builders for 2K, with a cast seel crank and 5140 ibeam rods and good probe forged pistons all set up for NO2, look around and call them they like to tell you what you need.
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