I have posted several questions with my problem regading the stumbling/no power issue. Well, it has been fixed. It was two things. First the EGR was capped at the vacuum source but not unplugged. Second, the vacuum port coming from the underside of the intake(The pic showing a hose with a bolt), needed to be hooked to the MAP. Even though it is a MAF set-up, the MAP(BAP) needed that vacuum source. Apparently, it was running WAY too rich. I test drove it, spun in second, then third and I was convinced it was fixed so I let off. Freaking vacuum lines can mess EVERYTHING up if not routed correctly.

Thanks to all that helped!
Mike

 

Good information to have thanks for the post!

 

thata boy. now your a pro at fixing vaccume stuff.... better use it to help people with the same problems on here!!! hahaha

 

[sm=signs006.gif]....something else is wrong there.....MAF setups do not use vacuum at the BP/MAP sensor, if it runs "better" with vacuum applied, you're patching the real cause of the problem. My 2¢.

 

Possible. It could have been the EGR still hooked up. Either way, hooking up the MAP sensor has done nothing to impede the performance. I will try and drive it without the MAP vacuum and see what it does.

To add: Has anyone ever left the vacuum to the MAP even after the MAF conversion? Does it really hamper the overall performance?

 

Is not a matter of performance.....is a matter of having the setup not configured as the OEM design calls out for. Any deviation from that design, even though it might perform "better", means a cause of a real problem is being compensated for, through other means (=applying vacuum to the BP sensor).

Are you using a A9L/A9P or equivalent ECM?......you may also want to check the system for failure codes.....run a DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test.

 

I'm tellin you bra, that line is supposed to go down to the canister purge valve. not to the BAP(MAP)!

 

Yeah, I'm going to put it back to the Vapor canister. Am I to think that the problem was just the EGR being plugged in? I don't what else it could have been.

 

Try disconnecting that line from your MAP and see if the problem returns. Maybe there is something wrong with the sensor. I don't think that the EGR being plugged in would cause drivability problems from everything I have heard. Or maybe the bolt in that line was allowing a vac leak.

 

Here's what I'm thinking: The EGR was plugged in, but the vacuum source was not. The computer read thatthe EGR was closedand compensated with more fuel. The car was running WAY too rich and would stumblebadly at part to wide open throttle.When I slapped on a breather to that vacuum hose(the one with the bolt), it ran a 1000 times better. I guess adding more air leveled off the mixture. Maybe all I needed to do was unhook the EGR?