Chrisinkw

I read the codes on my car this afternoon and heres what i got
67-neutral position switch, (3.0 map, 3.0 MAF SFI) or clutch switch cicuit failure, or A/C input high

81-air divertor solenoid failure, intake air control circuit fault/ air injection divertor

and a 95-fuel pump secondary ciruit fault

anyone know what any of these would be?
I have no idea what any of thses mean
I also got a 34 which is EGR valve so I guess i will have to get one of those

samseed101

Are you having any problems with the car? For the first code, just ignore it. What gear were you in when you ran the codes? That could explain the code 67. As far as code 34, did you eliminate your EGR or is it still installed? That's no real big deal either if it's removed or disabled. And fhr the other two, I'd reset the codes and rive it a bit to see if they return. Were they there when you last checked codes?

Chrisinkw

this is the frst time i have ever checked the codes
those are the O codes
the C codes are 18, 29, 34, and 95
the EGR is still there
the biggest prob with the car is that when it is cold it stumbles on itself up untill around 3000rpm and then it takes off
it stumbles so bad sometimes that if i get on it to early it backfires, I think it is gettin to much gas so PCV or EGR valve???
also sometimes the idle surges from 500 - 1500?? then smoothes out after a while

its a 87gt with ported and polished heads E 303 cam ( mass air conv) GT40 intake
i think the injectors and mass air are stock sizes

Chrisinkw

the smog pump and all emissions crap is on the car if this helps

Chrisinkw

nobody?

samseed101

Disconnect the negative battery terminal to clear the memory / codes. While it's disconnected, remove your MAS and clean the sensor wires. You can get some MAS sensor cleaner at most parts stores. After that, take a look at your PCV valve and make sure it's functioning properly and not popped out or cracked, etc.

After that you can fire up the car and check for any vacuum leaks around hoses or gaskets. It may help to get some carb cleaner (or even a bottle of propane with a long hose attached to it) and spray all around gaskets and hoses with the engine running. If there is a vacuum leak, you'll hear it when the RPMs rise.

If you have access to it, check the fuel pressure and see what it is. Make sure your regulator is working properly and the diaphram isnt ruptured. Also get a vacuum gauge (pretty cheap at Sears) and check your vacuum at idle. The fuel pressure and vacuum at idle will tell you a lot about your car.