Cam Help
5th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,616
From: Ohio USA
RE: Cam Help
ORIGINAL: stanglx2002
Well can we get back to my thread question about which cam to use for my car. This car is going to only be a street driven car and wont see higher then 5500 rpms anyways. I want acam that will have bottom end torque not high HP since it will only be street/highway driving. This car is going to be my DD. This the original cam that I picked out going to do this or should I look at the TFS stage 1 cam?
Well can we get back to my thread question about which cam to use for my car. This car is going to only be a street driven car and wont see higher then 5500 rpms anyways. I want acam that will have bottom end torque not high HP since it will only be street/highway driving. This car is going to be my DD. This the original cam that I picked out going to do this or should I look at the TFS stage 1 cam?
"
Get the cam and valve spring package that puts the normally aspirated Steeda GT-40 engine package in the 11.90's at over 113 mph! We've tried a bunch of cams and this is the best for making horsepower on a street-able 5.0 with and without a supercharger. Originally developed for supercharged engines, we found that it beat out the popular brand name cams on naturally aspirated engines as well!
Specifications:
* Lift .480 w/1.6 Rockers
* Duration 220° @ 0.050 intake
* Duration 226° @ 0.050 exhaust
* Lobe Separation 112°
Recommended RPM Range 2500 to 6000 '
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,926
From: Puerto Rico
RE: Cam Help
ORIGINAL: aode06
With the gt 40 heads, on our cobra, we tried a few cams with the stock 1.7 rollers, and with the 5-speed, stalling at traffic lights was very easy and when engaging the clutch when going over a .520 lift.(streetability and vacum).
But we learned the GT-40 and similair flowing heads liked a split shift favoring the exhaust side, (stock is equal on int/exh), and kept in its power range to top end with .500 -.520 lift. And going larger lift , the power was lost and the heads were holding us back, as far as flow goes.
It was like the cam was trying to put the air there, but the heads could not pull it through and power was lost.
With the gt 40 heads, on our cobra, we tried a few cams with the stock 1.7 rollers, and with the 5-speed, stalling at traffic lights was very easy and when engaging the clutch when going over a .520 lift.(streetability and vacum).
But we learned the GT-40 and similair flowing heads liked a split shift favoring the exhaust side, (stock is equal on int/exh), and kept in its power range to top end with .500 -.520 lift. And going larger lift , the power was lost and the heads were holding us back, as far as flow goes.
It was like the cam was trying to put the air there, but the heads could not pull it through and power was lost.
Valve lift does not determine streetability and vacuum, if you regrind a HO cam, leave all its specs the same, but increase lift to .530" (to pick a number), will it cause the engine not to idle and make 18"-20" Hg.?.....
Check my sig.....'87 302 stock block, X-303 (224°/224° duration @.050") cam with 1.72 rockers (=.583" lift) on '66 289 heads (which flow less than regular GT40s), single plane intake and 700 cfm DP carb......"torque down low" would be inexistent with those parts, right?...it makes 12"-13" Hg. vacuum at 750 rpms idle.......now check the gears....2.73. Daily driven for 13 yrs........ and it will smoke the tires from a standstill.....why?.....
Following the analogy of the article posted "A Non-Technical Discussion on 5.0 Camshaft Selection" (which perfectly describes it)......the camshaft is not the "Heart" of the engine......it's the brain. If you have limitations in the lungs (intake, TB, heads)....doesn't it make sense to compensate for those limitations by increasing the time, opening speed and the distance the existing head valves open?.....
Now....back to the OP....
ORIGINAL: stanglx2002
Well can we get back to my thread question about which cam to use for my car. This car is going to only be a street driven car and wont see higher then 5500 rpms anyways. I want acam that will have bottom end torque not high HP since it will only be street/highway driving. This car is going to be my DD. This the original cam that I picked out going to do this or should I look at the TFS stage 1 cam?
Well can we get back to my thread question about which cam to use for my car. This car is going to only be a street driven car and wont see higher then 5500 rpms anyways. I want acam that will have bottom end torque not high HP since it will only be street/highway driving. This car is going to be my DD. This the original cam that I picked out going to do this or should I look at the TFS stage 1 cam?
, now you know why I pay people to make me a cam it makes concentrating on the motor more easier.
Thread Starter
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,205
From:
RE: Cam Help
so the stock cam is the best cam for my application. Is there a particular year that I should look at getting? Does alone know the specs of the stock HO cam? Also why would the stock cam be the best cam?
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,926
From: Puerto Rico
RE: Cam Help
ORIGINAL: stanglx2002
so the stock cam is the best cam for my application. Is there a particular year that I should look at getting? Does alone know the specs of the stock HO cam? Also why would the stock cam be the best cam?
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so the original cam that I picked wont be the best pick the stock HO cam would be? If I may ask why?
so the stock cam is the best cam for my application. Is there a particular year that I should look at getting? Does alone know the specs of the stock HO cam? Also why would the stock cam be the best cam?
+
so the original cam that I picked wont be the best pick the stock HO cam would be? If I may ask why?
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,926
From: Puerto Rico
RE: Cam Help
ORIGINAL: Matt Paul
God Dam Joel my head hurts just reading all that[sm=outcold.gif], now you know why I pay people to make me a cam it makes concentrating on the motor more easier.
God Dam Joel my head hurts just reading all that[sm=outcold.gif], now you know why I pay people to make me a cam it makes concentrating on the motor more easier.
Thread Starter
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,205
From:
RE: Cam Help
ORIGINAL: Joel5.0
As with anything in life....it all depends on the goals. Since you want a low-revving torque monster (low revving = <6000 rpms), daily driveable.......you could reach them with the stock HO cam ('89+ = 276°/266° Advertised duration .444"/.444" 115.5° LSA .....or.... '85-'88 = 266°/266° Advertised duration .444"/.444" 115° LSA).... upgraded valve train and 1.7 rockers. You could benefit from the Steeda #18 or #19 with the GT40 heads, but you need to make sure you go over the required procedures to set either right (cam degreeing, valve train geometry setting, pushrod length, valve train upgrade, etc).
As with anything in life....it all depends on the goals. Since you want a low-revving torque monster (low revving = <6000 rpms), daily driveable.......you could reach them with the stock HO cam ('89+ = 276°/266° Advertised duration .444"/.444" 115.5° LSA .....or.... '85-'88 = 266°/266° Advertised duration .444"/.444" 115° LSA).... upgraded valve train and 1.7 rockers. You could benefit from the Steeda #18 or #19 with the GT40 heads, but you need to make sure you go over the required procedures to set either right (cam degreeing, valve train geometry setting, pushrod length, valve train upgrade, etc).
What springs should I use since I have to upgrade the valve train as you said? Will the TF spring kit work or are there better springs out there I could use? Also is there anything else that I need to upgrade besides the springs? Also when I install the cam should Idegree(advance or retard)the cam or justinstall it straight up? If the HO cam is going to be the best cam for my application then thats what I will get since I heard the stock explorer cam sucks.