Relocating battery right now.
#1
Relocating battery right now.
Hey doodz. i was bored so i decided to make my own relocation kit. since im a welder and have lots of tools/hardware/raw materials i can make a kit easily. i also have 2 full spools of 4 gauge high strand Crankin' cable. I used those to run the power from the +- back to the trunk.
I took pics but ill tell you guys the story.
I needed to get both cables through my firewall so that was a bit of a hassle, lucky me there was a peice of audio wire left hanging in the engine bay and under the steering wheel going through the firewall. i taped ONE heavy cable to this crappy old audio wire and pulled the heavy cable through, did this again with another line of heavy cable and taping it to the first heavy cable line. ok so i got both cables through the firewall (through the steering column grommet). im ready to stretch the lines through the carpeting. this was actually pretty easy, i unbolted the side plastic trim and saw plenty of room to work with, i slid the wires under my carpet under the rear seat and out the back, you cant even see the cables inside my car, completely hidden. took a good hour of nifty work but i finally got 2 heavy lines going from my engine bay to the trunk where the battery is sitting. i will be taking pics as i do this. hope yall like.
I took pics but ill tell you guys the story.
I needed to get both cables through my firewall so that was a bit of a hassle, lucky me there was a peice of audio wire left hanging in the engine bay and under the steering wheel going through the firewall. i taped ONE heavy cable to this crappy old audio wire and pulled the heavy cable through, did this again with another line of heavy cable and taping it to the first heavy cable line. ok so i got both cables through the firewall (through the steering column grommet). im ready to stretch the lines through the carpeting. this was actually pretty easy, i unbolted the side plastic trim and saw plenty of room to work with, i slid the wires under my carpet under the rear seat and out the back, you cant even see the cables inside my car, completely hidden. took a good hour of nifty work but i finally got 2 heavy lines going from my engine bay to the trunk where the battery is sitting. i will be taking pics as i do this. hope yall like.
#4
RE: Relocating battery right now.
If both cables run the same length, they should both be the same gauge. If the positive is 00, and the negative is 04 you are creating a bottleneck for your current. Keep them both the same, and I agree with vfast, they should be 00. Good luck.
#5
RE: Relocating battery right now.
yah im with lucky. what were the two wores for. did u route a pos. and a neg. wire threw the car and to the engine bay? u ciida saved a lot of time and used about 2ft of negative wire and ground it to the trunk
#6
RE: Relocating battery right now.
im using really heavy 4 gauge, its high strand so im sure it will be ok.
i didnt want to ground it in the trunk because i felt that i should assemble the new battery location with 2 cables back to the original leads, to mimic as if the battery hasnt been moved. just a precaution. its working out good though.
i didnt want to ground it in the trunk because i felt that i should assemble the new battery location with 2 cables back to the original leads, to mimic as if the battery hasnt been moved. just a precaution. its working out good though.
#7
RE: Relocating battery right now.
ok guys you are scaring me, the whole 'you should use 00 gauge' thing makes me think that my car will catch on fire if the cables melt, so heres what im gonna do, i will use both cables for the positive lead and just ground it to the trunk.
i checked my AWG chart for current load and 4AWG can handle 60 amps continuous and 135 max. so both cables can support 120 amps continuous, doesnt sound too bad since my alternator can only put out 150 max which is almost never... ill make the negative cable really really heavy, i have some mega crankin 2 gauge in my garage i can use.
how does that sound? [8D]
EDIT: ok what do i do with the original battery negative stuff in the front of the car, just screw it to the chassis? are you guys sure this is ok? thanks.
i checked my AWG chart for current load and 4AWG can handle 60 amps continuous and 135 max. so both cables can support 120 amps continuous, doesnt sound too bad since my alternator can only put out 150 max which is almost never... ill make the negative cable really really heavy, i have some mega crankin 2 gauge in my garage i can use.
how does that sound? [8D]
EDIT: ok what do i do with the original battery negative stuff in the front of the car, just screw it to the chassis? are you guys sure this is ok? thanks.
#8
RE: Relocating battery right now.
ok i did what you guys said and grounded the batt to the chassis and grounded the other wires under the hood that were the original - batt wires, those to the chassis too. i turned the key and the engine would turn over but wouldnt start, so i dont know what the problem with that is. i thougt it was a bad ground, so to check i just removed the engine bay negatives and ran them with that extra second cable to the negative (removed the second positive cable and used it for negative) then i turn the key and the lights go on, radio and stuff but then when i go to turn the engine on, poof, i blew a fuse. i checked which one, it was a 10 amp fuse, red one under dash. i dont understand what went wrong, the wiring wasnt complicated and everything should have worked, its not like i introduced anything new, just ran lines to the battery but it wouldnt start!!!! now this...
so ghey...
so ghey...
#9
RE: Relocating battery right now.
Good choice on the wires. I think for kicks and giggles you should check to see if the wires you ran are shorted to ground somewhere. As dumb as this sounds, and I'm sure you've done it over and over, retrace your footsteps and garanteed you will find the problem. Which fuse was it that blew?? Good luck, and let us know the outcome.
#10
RE: Relocating battery right now.
to small of a guage wire and you do have some voltage drop. bein an electrician of 10yrs ive never heard of your explantion of amperage of wire. you need to have a continuious ground. make sure the motor is grounded to hte frame/unibody,also make sure your grounded connnection is very clean and tight. youre not going to have a fire with 4 guage but some of your accessories wont function properly cause of the amount of current being carried thru it or lack of.
you happen to be a jack of all trades being a welder,machinest and a mechcanical engineer...wow man thats impressive at such a very young age
you happen to be a jack of all trades being a welder,machinest and a mechcanical engineer...wow man thats impressive at such a very young age