How hard is this to do?
I can take my heads off but I have never had to mess with taking out and replacing a valve?
The reason why I'm asking is because pretty soon I'm going to have to do this. One of my heads has developed a tick to it and I called trickflow and they said some of them will develop a tick to it and its normal . I thought nothing more of it(MISTAKE). But I sent it out to get tuned 2 weeks ago and it came back with only 253 rwhp and 278 torque. My tuner said that something had to be wrong and he mentioned that there was valve train noise once it hit 4900 rpms and thats also where it peaked out on the dyno. No I dont have the dyno sheet because I was pissed off and threw it away.

 

Anyone?

 

not hard, i've got my heads off now and replacing the springs this weekend. if your not sure you can always call ford tech line and they can help or post on here and we'll help. its easy if you can get your head off.

 

You need a valve spring compressor. Once you compress the valve spring the keepers will fall out. You pull the valve through the oil seal, if you are careful you can re-use the seal. One problem with replaing a valve is it will need to be "lapped in" with the seat.

This is accomplished with a lapping tool ( a stick with a suction cup on the end) and clover gear lapping compound. Yuo have to blue the vale and lap until the valve has a nice ring in the bluing around the entire seat surface.

The back on with the valve. You slide the valve through the guide, take you sping(s) and place them back over the valve compress the spring(s) and release compressor tool while holding the keepers in place.

If you need me to be more descript, then p/m me, I have done this a million times in my garage.

 

Valvc train noise doesnt mean you need a new valve. If the valve is bad, a compression test will help as well as looking at the tip. A rocker, or several, could be adjusted wrong etc. More details would help, combo etc. Your springs could be weak, but usually you dont get noise from the valve train after a certain RPM. You can hear it all the time. Did they give you the A/F ratio? Throwing the dyno sheet away doesnt help, you can tell alot from the curve.

 

Thank you!!! I was hoping by the time I got to the end of the thread someone would say that....I assume that since you have listed an H/C/I that it is a recent mod........knowing your mods would help determine the possible cause.........if you adjusted the valves/ set up valvetrain geometry to tight you may have problems now = possible weakened springs and or coil bind occuring and possibly even a broken spring by now........How did you set up your valvetrain???? did you set rockers to 0 lash and have the correct length pushrod so rocker tip is centered on the stem tip???......before you throw parts at it, like GARYH says do a compression test and or a cylinder leakage test.....these two tests will confirm your cylinder chambers ability to seal.........which inturn can indicate bent and or burt valves or ones that doen't seal well. follow proper diagnostic steps and you may not be as bad off as you thought......also what are the specs on your H/C/I set up??