wolverine8490

I thought that as well. The o2's I had, the heating element was shot, so I went ahead and replaced them both. but in your cse, if they are both coming up as issues, I would check the ground first, and then check the sensors individually.

Joel5.0

You could also switch O2 sensors from sides, if code 91 repeats, you have a problem in that engine bank..... if a code 41 shows up after switching O2 sensors, the O2 sensor (although it's a new replacement) is snafu.

wolverine8490

Well, after lookign around last night, here is what I found out.

I swapped out the O2's from side to side. I then recieved code 91. I also noticed a few more things when checking out the vacuum lines. I found the vacuum regulator for the EGR so I have that hooked up properly now. The charcoal canister, and canister purge valve is missing, and the vent line for the gas tank is plugged. Also, the vacuum resservor is not on the car. So I guess this is what I plan on doing:

-Uncap the gas tank vent line so the gas tank can vent, or buy a vented gas cap
-re-install the vacuum resservor
-replace PCV valve (Have no idea the milage on that thing)

At that point, I guess I will re-check the vacuum with the guage. I am guessing that I should have at least 10" of vacuum at that point with the egr regulator hooked up. I am not for sure if any of the other things I have found would effect vacuum. I am also guessing that I will need to re-check fuel pressure at the FPR if the vacuum at idle is better than it was when I set it at 5".

wolverine8490

I took a few videos of the car hooked up to a vacuum guage to see if anything stood out better to anyone. I would mute the sound, as it was taken with my camera phone, and the sound is horrible:

1st - Idle
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...74772290257234

2nd - WOT
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...34225121959164

3rd - 2000-3000rpms
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...34225121959164

PRO50SC

How does the car run and from what port are you taking your reading from. I saw 11 not 5 but that's still a lil low.

PRO50SC

Explain this part and what's the timing set at?

wolverine8490

Well, I was just thinking that this morning, that I pulled the vac off the FPR when I set the fuel pressure, so it would not matter what the vacuum was at when I set it originally, so that I was not thinking straight.

Timing is set dead on 10 degrees. As long as the balancer has not spun. The balancer I had on it originally, was toast, so I just replaced it with a JY one that "looked" to be in good shape, but I guess there is no easy way to tell if it had spun a little or not.

wolverine8490

Yeah, originally it was running at 5" at idle. Then when someone mentioned that the EGR should not have vac at idle, I looked over the vac lines better, and realized that the EGR regulator was not hooked up. So when I hooked that back up, it bumped the vac up to almost 11" at idle. Which I am guessing is still low.

Joel5.0

Time for PR length, lifters preload and valve train geometry check. Regarding code 91, you may want to make sure you dont have an exhaust leak in that side header.

wolverine8490

I guess I am going to try and check this out on Sunday. I just have this feeling thtat the valves may be to tight. I know I turned them 1 full turn past zero lash, cause they would not stop ticking any other way, but I am wondering if the ticking was being caused by the lifters not being pumped up origianlly since they were brand new.

All I did was bring the first cyl in the firing order to TDC, set the intake and exhaust for that cyl, and the turned the motor 90 degrees, and went to the next cyl in the firing order. That is what the TF instructions said to do. I think I am going to try the instructions here.