DietrichVR4

first thing I wan't is to just get the engine built ready to drop in what would be a good cam(degree), carb (CFM), intake manifold,Heads (cc)what ignition system and fuel pump will be required? will I need a forged crank for this power level what kind of power will this take on race gas? and can I use the 351 accessories besides pan and mount etc.

psuhillbilly150

Here is what I did. This all cost me about8-9 grand (not counting the T-5 build up)with no labor costs and a very understanding machinist who I am buddys with. This engine might have even been happier if i went with a 1050 carb with the rpms its turning. I am hoping for mid to low 10s with this on255/50/16 or 275/50/15 MT ET streetdrag radials. No nitrous though. Herbert does sell cams that radical for nitrous setups. All be it you won't have the costs inareas like I do but your going to make them up somewhere else. Heh seems to be the way things work.

1986 351w block bored .30 overstroked to 408(no access to 69-74 block)
Victor Jr heads 210cc intake ports70cc chambers making 11:1 compression 2.05 intake 1.60 exhaust valves
Victor Jr Intake port matched to heads
Holly 950cfm 4150 carb
Doug Herbert Solid Roller cam .644 .643 290/302 @ .50 RPM range 3500-7200
Crane Cams Solid Roller lifters
Hardend pushrods
Scorpion roller rockers
1.6 7/16"studs with stud girdles
Eagle Forged steel crank
Eagle H beam rods
SRP-5ccpistons
ARP studs and bolts in heads, mains, androds
Bottom end fully balanced by Eagle
Melling High Performance oil pump (not high volume)
MSD 6AL ignition box
MSD Blaster 2 coil
MSD 8.5mmwires
MSD distributor
Hooker Super Comp Headers1 3/4" into 3" collectors (needed for swap)
Ford high torque starter (standard one wouldn't even turn the motor over)

The high torque startermakesthings easiersince its smaller then the standard one,cause the headers you need to put on for the swap are JAMMED in there.

Igot a 12pt cage (If i am going to fight with a 6pt install might as well go all the way)

probably gonna need a new hood unless you get creative,I got a 3" cowl and this motorstill does not fit.

If your not going to go with a forged bottom end you would probably want to cap the rpms at 6500 or a hair lower 6200. My buddy has a 351w that runs a stock bottom end (new pistons to up compression)withaluminimumheads and fairly decent cam something like .540/.560 and 280/290 durationand he uses it in his stock class pull truck which will hold 6300 rpm all the way down the track. So far its been on the road for a year, its his daily driver as well. You can get off brand alumininum heads that are nearly as good as the victor jrs from PCM or PMC or some company like that. (I am sure someone on here knows exactly where to go)

I am putting the power down through a T-5, but I fully built the thing as much as possible from astro performance(1-5, input shaft, tailshaft stage 4 clutch)and I am still a bit iffy if the thing with hold up for any ammount of time. A stock trans forget about it. My bud was driving this fox and went for 3rd at 6500 rpm,missed it and hit 5th (the first missed shift on the car ever). Needless to say my 5th gear turned to pieces, it was the only stock part left in the trans, and your going to run a fully stock transmission? Blow proof bell might be something to look into too.

Really your probably not going to see 10s unless you have about5-7 grand laying around and an automatic tranny. I would also find someone who knows alot about nitrous to help with the setup. It has a tendancy to make pieces if you don't know what your doing, at least in my experiance.

The accessories and mounting bracketsfrom an 86 302 from anLTD/crown vicfit on the front of my motor letting me use a serpentine belt setup so I don't loose V-belts at rpm. Go to an advanced autoparts store or any chainstoreand you can cross check on their computerswhat mustang parts were used onthevehicalyour 351 came out of. If the part numbers match you shoud be good to go.