m_ross05

the key will not turn on the pump at all....the only way to get the fuel pump to prime or turn on is to send power directly to it or send power into the coil

Joel5.0

Guys, guys........the problem has been reduced to a no IGN ON power at the coil (+), the TFI module and the CCRM...... all are sourced from fuse #18 in the I/P panel (yes the one under the dash)..... no need to check anything else until this one is fixed. Here's a thought m_ross05..... even though the fuse checks OK, remove it..... check the condition of the fuse terminals/blades and make sure there is not a contact problem in the fuse box......BTW, I would simply replace the fuse. If power is not present at the coil (+) terminal, you would need to trace the RED/LT GRN wire to check where it could be broken/open or a contact problem present...... the following should help you with that task.........



The RED/LT GRN wires at the top left corner, are the ones that go to the coil (+) terminal and the remote TFI module connector IGN ON terminal. LUK what you find out.

aode08

hopefully not a CCRM , those bastards are getting costly

mustanglp87

this sounds a lot like what happened to me. check all of the wiring from the inertia switch. i COULD NOT figure that **** out to save my life and it turned out to be wiring from the inertia switch to the fuel pump. hope that helps?

m_ross05

well i know its not the ccrm i have tried 3 that i know work... so i will try replacin the fuse...

also power goes through the inertia switch...so its not that...all the wiring from the ccrm to pcm to fuses to pump and everything are fine....the car will run if i send power to coil.....so it has to be something like a fuse

Joel5.0

Check the CCRM connector pinout, look for pin 13 (RED/LT GREEN wire), that wire should have 12-vdc when the key is turned to IGN ON, if not...... it needs to be traced back to the mentioned fuse....... which is also the same IGN ON power source for the coil and the TFI module.

mjr46

if the fuse in question is good.....take a test light and touch it to the pins and see if you have power on it..if not....ford had a tsb/ recallon the ignition switch and it causing shorts and or a potential fire hazard???? might want to check the wires going into the fuse box for any signs of being damaged/ insulation melted

JohnnyK

It's not the distributor module. My coil gets power without it. You're looking for a red/green wire that gets spliced everywhere. Main battery + (I believe), to the ignition switch, where it splices and goes to the ignition + coil, and to the distributor module.

m_ross05

ok u guys are right....i feel like an idiot for overlooking this....i checked the fuse box and the 18 one is blown....but I remember when i first checked it about a month agoi got it mixed up with 15 somehow...i think i was just going through it too fast....and the car has been wrecked so it has no airbags right now so i just thought it kept blowin because the airbgs had been blown

When i checked this fuse last time and thought it was the wrong one....it would blow everytime i put a 25(didnt have any 20s)in it and turned the key on....today i put a 25 in it and when i turned the ignition on the fuel pump turned on did not blow it....but when i turned the key the rest of the way to start it everything lost power and a noise is clicking near the trunk and the under hood light flashes....so is it a shorted wire, ignition switch, or ccrm?

m_ross05

also could a bad battery have something to do with it?

I have noticed that my battery will not stay charged and I am not sure if something is draving power or if it just bad....it is the original battery

Or could it be security related since stuff is flashing?