19stang86

what do you mean the shim has nothing to do with the bearings? then why would ford have factory shims in between the inner bearing on the pinion. And if the bearing is to far in, you would never be able to even crush the crush washer. the race is the only thing that is none adjustable, the bearing are. there my friend you are wrong.

blk40th

ok i bought the rear and everything was done. it has ford racing 3.55's in it. but please dont tell me to redo the shims and all. im not looking to do that. i just need to get by for a lil while. like ive said b4 i didnt know the old rear had an auburn otherwise i wouldve just rebuilt the old one. also can you reuse gears as long as they are good.

67mustang302

The shims are there to set thepinion gearchecking distance. The crush sleeve is for pinion bearing preload. If the rear was already set up with another yoke on it, and the shimming is right, then it should be fine, all you're doing is resetting pinion bearing preload with a new yoke(used, your's. You need to make sure this rear was already set up right), not the checking distance. That's what I like about my 8", the shims go on the pinion bearing housing, seperate from the rest of the rear, so you set the pinion gear once, and just shim the entire housing which bolts on. I haven't done an 8.8 before, but it sounds like it's set up like some Chevy diffs, where you adjust the checking distance by shimming the bearing, so you change the pinion gear's position in relation to the bearing. PIA!! That's why I like the Ford 8 and 9 inch rears, it makes setting them up a bit quicker if you have to keep re shimming the pinion.

Cad T Bird 500

This is correct. All the shim does is set how deep the pinion goes into the ring gear, back-lash.

The crush sleeve is the only thing between the two bearings and this sets how much pre-load is on the bearings. Can't be too long and be sloppy, nor can it be too short and put too much pressure on the bearings.



I found this here. http://bernardembden.com/xjs/diff/index.htm Even though this is a jag rear it is the same principle. His solution is also interesting.

TED

67mustang302

Clever, he made a scale to check the bearing drag. Making tools FTW!

19stang86

ya you can reuse the gears but just make sure they arn't fcked up or chipped. and you want to try to get the exact backlash so they dont wear funny sence they've been ran already. man the only reason i know this is because i had the exact same problem when i installed 3.73's less than a month ago. the pinion had play in and out. i first reused the same shim that went in between the pinion gear itself and the inner bearing. BUT the stock 3.27 pinion gear had a lip or seat on the shaft right after the headof the gearthat spaced out the gear itself from the inner bearing. the new 3.73's didn't have a lip.so there for when i installed the bearing is traveled further down on the shaft and was literally sitting against bottom of the gear. the only thing in between the gear and the bearing was a .020 shim. I noticed this after removing in due to the in and out play it had. I had to remove the pinion, press off the inner bearing and figure out how much difference there was in between the origanal gear and bearing it. it needed another .030. so i had a total of .050 of spacing in between the two. i shimmed it up, put the bearing, slid it through the housing, put the outer bearing, seal, crush washer, and VWALLA, the nut crushed the washer just enought the be tight and be locked with no in and out up or down, and was almost damn near perfect in backlash. It doesn't whine, grind or jerk. SO just check the spacing in between the gear and the inner bearing in the pinion, shim it and get a new crush washer. and you should be good.

Mustangkiler

take it all apart and pound out and replace the races and replace the bearings and get new shims if needed, and get a press to make it easier even if its a little hydraulic one or grind out the inside of the old ones and get a depth indicator to check the pinion depth and dial indicator for backlash on the carrier bearings and make sure there all shimmed right with 12 in lbs of drag on the pinion nut and all the back and forth play out the pinion must be out and the nwhen everything is shimmed right and checked correctly put the new crush sleeve and seal in, but thats doing it the right way which is the only way id do it.

coony278

Well, I will throw my .02 cents in.

The way I understand it is that you have a used rear end that is already been run. Therefore everything has been set up already. And all tooth patterns have already been established and to be honest if you take it apart and set it back to factory specs it will probally roar like hell. Used gears are very hard to deal with they dont like to be changed from whatthey have worn it at.
However if the rear end has already been ran and someone took the yoke off and you put another one on. Then there is no reason , for you to have end play on the pinoion. You either have the wrong yoke for the pinoin or you didnt get ittight enough to tighten the bearing or the bearing's are worn out. Even with the bearings worn out you should still be able to tighten it up to get no end play. But it would lock up the rear end
Assuming no parts are worn out , I would still get a new front seal and crush sleeve and retorque the pinion. Be aware that torquing a new crush sleeve is very hard and I seriously doubt you can get enough leverage on the floor to start it to crushing. I always put mine in my press and start it crushing just a hair to make life easier.

P.S. Just mock it up with out the crush sleeve , you should be able to put the front bearing in and putthe yoke on and tighten and get the correct inch pound turnage on the pinion, all the crush sleeve does is hold pressure on the pinion nut so it doesnt back off. But dont try and run the car without a cruch sleeeve , this is for test purpose only to find your problem. If you cant get it truning propery like that then you have otehr major problems.

Chad

blk40th

ok ill have to try some of the things you guys mentioned. i just need to find somewhere that sells the crush sleeve today. i know im gonna have to go to the dealer and get it. but yea theres no way im taking this apart. i know how it is when parts start to wear together they have to go exactly like they were. ill c what i can do.

blk40th

can i replace the front pinion bearing and not the race. if not im just going to buy the crush sleeve. also are the pinion bearings supposed to be packed with grease like say a wheel bearing would be? i pulled the old stuff off my old rear to get an idea of how it goes together. its really easy i think theres a shim that back the nut and rides on the bearing?