help with vacuum lines and EGR problems
#1
help with vacuum lines and EGR problems
Ok, so I was looking at the solenoid and vacuum tree on my passenger side because I don't think my EGR valve is working right. I found these to open lines. I don't know what they go to, nor if it matters if they aren't blocked. My smog pump has been deleted because the guy that put my heads on deleted them for me. The picture is taken from atop the egr solenoid, which is in the bottom left of the picture. Any help here???
Ok, now I don't think my EGR is working right. My idle hangs like a sumbitch. Everything else is good(tb, iac, etc). In this picture, i circled the line that i plugged up to my EGR(just to see what would happen) and it made my car sound a lot better at idle, and i'm thinking that there is no vacuum at all going to my egr. I just want this hanging idle fixed
anyone???
Ok, now I don't think my EGR is working right. My idle hangs like a sumbitch. Everything else is good(tb, iac, etc). In this picture, i circled the line that i plugged up to my EGR(just to see what would happen) and it made my car sound a lot better at idle, and i'm thinking that there is no vacuum at all going to my egr. I just want this hanging idle fixed
anyone???
#2
RE: help with vacuum lines and EGR problems
You're trying to solve the problem the wrong way......
1. Those are the TAB/TAD solenoids for the AIR injection system, the EVR is the solenoid that should be on top of those two.
2. The EGR is supposed to have vacuum only at part throttle under load conditions, not idling or free revving in neutral.
3. Having the EGR non-functional will not create any idle or driveability problems. The EEC automatically deletes its function as soon as it detects an EGR failure code.
4. Need to check the system for failure codes in order to see what failures the EEC is working with, run a DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test combo first.
1. Those are the TAB/TAD solenoids for the AIR injection system, the EVR is the solenoid that should be on top of those two.
2. The EGR is supposed to have vacuum only at part throttle under load conditions, not idling or free revving in neutral.
3. Having the EGR non-functional will not create any idle or driveability problems. The EEC automatically deletes its function as soon as it detects an EGR failure code.
4. Need to check the system for failure codes in order to see what failures the EEC is working with, run a DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test combo first.
#3
RE: help with vacuum lines and EGR problems
Ok, I'll run the self test, but what could be causing a hanging idle if its not the iac, tb, or tps??? I'll be driving, and when i switch gears, or come up to a light and shift to neutral, my RPMs go up a couple hundred, then it hangs at around 1400 before coming down.
#5
RE: help with vacuum lines and EGR problems
Do the following test..... make sure you're in an empty open area...... start to roll in first gear up to 10-15 MPH, let the car rolling, press the clutch..... idle should "hang"..... as soon as you get the speed below 6 MPH, the idle "hang" should not happen. That is the idle "dashpot function" in effect. At any speed above 6 MPH, the system will not allow the idle "in-neutral @0 MPH" strategy to be in effect...... and that is normal.
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