jperz89lx

hey, i just bought thoes patriot heads for my 89 5.0. iv never done anything like heads before. i did swap my intake but i doubt heads are that easy. but heres the deal...is there any advice you guys can give me? im pretty much gonna go by what the chiltons repaire manual tells me to do. but for you guys that have swapped heads what kinda pointers can you give me? thanks for any help guys

OnyxCobra

Take your time and double check your torque specs and sequences. Keep all your bolts in labeled bags or something to keep them organized. Here's a step by step that I found to be about 98% if you'd like to take a look at it, it's very helpful.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/techa...intakeswap.pdf

stang8689

Yeah, label all bolts in bags and don't forget to prime the engine

tooslow5.0

great link, thanks onyx!

jperz89lx

hey thanks guys, great link...how do you mean prime the engine?

Mustangkiler

get a drill and a tool that u put down ur dizzy hole to turn ya oil pump over to get oil up to the top of your engine or just pull the coil plug and crank it some thats waht i do the lazy way.

LTnone

That does nothing good for your engine. The point is to get the oil pumping before the rotating assy starts moving, by cranking it you're doing the exact opposite. To make that more clear, there's a tool called a priming rod that you can put down your distributor hole. It will attach to the oil pump shaft, and by attaching the tool to a drill you can spin the shaft and lubricate the engine. Remember, you'll need the drill to spin counterclockwise.
For heads, it's pretty straightforward. The link someone gave should help. When putting the head bolts back in, torque them in increments (while following the torque sequence, of course). For example.. if the torque spec is 75ft-lbs, torque them all in sequence to 10. then 20. then 40. then 60. then 75. And research your bolts on the part mfr's website, some require you to untorque and retorque them all several times, some would get damaged by doing so. Just go ARP, and you don't have to retorque em anyway.

5spd GT

'87-'95 Heads, Cam, Intake Install Help

Checklist and Suggested Parts:

Parts are specific for 87-93 although most parts are the same for 94/95.

Head Gaskets - ROL-HG32841HR (.039) or ROL-HG32841HT (.045)
Lower Intake Gasket – FEL-MS93334 (stock) or FEL1250S
Upper to Lower Intake Gasket – Depends on Intake Used.
Valve Cover Gaskets* - FMS-M-6584-A50 (OEM)
Thermostat Gasket - FEL-35440
Timing Cover/Front Seal/Water Pump/Oil Pan U Gasket Kit - FEL-TCS45449
Water Pump Gasket - FEL-35211 (Plate to Block), FEL-35380 (Pump to Plate)
Head Bolts - FEL-ES72155 (stock), ARP-154-3601 (7/16”, recommended)
Header/Manifold Gaskets – FEL-1415
EGR Valve Gasket* - EDL-3830 (65-70mm TB/EGR/Plate to Valve Gasket)
Throttle Body Gasket - Same as above.
Intake Air Bypass Valve Gasket* - Same as above.
Hardened Pushrods
Timing Chain/Gear - FMS-M-6268-A302 or RollMaster - CS3071
Fuel Injectors - Stock 19lb injectors, 24lb (Cobra), 30lb injectors common
Mass Air Flow Sensor Calibrated for Injector
Fuel Pump (Stock is 88 or 95lph – Upgrade to 155/190/255lph)

*Optional

There are many different brands of products that you could use above instead of the ones outlined.

Tools:

¼”-15/16” Shallow and Deep Well Sockets and Wrenches
Combination of Extensions
Break Over Bar
Torque Wrench
Harmonic Balancer Puller
Gear Puller* (optional for stubborn timing chain)
Moroso Oil Pump Primer* - MOR-62210
A/C and Fuel Line Disconnect Tools*
Allen Wrenches*
Adjustable Wrench
Flathead and Phillips Screwdriver
Cam Degree Kit*
LocTite
Ultra Black RTV
Antiseize
Thread Sealer for Lower Head Bolts and Coolant Sensors
Assembly Lube or Oil for cam/lifters
Two Oil Changes and Filters
Ford Thermactor Plugs* (2 extra plugs if no smog equipment)
Gasket Scraper
Brake Cleaner
Degreaser*
Ziploc Bags*
Masking Tape*
Marker*

*Optional

Check out www.rockauto.com for any more parts/tools you may need.

Torque Specs:

Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolts: 108-144 in. lbs (6-9 ft. lbs)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt: 40-45 ft. lbs
Timing Cover Bolts: 12-18 ft. lbs
Water Pump Bolts: 15-21 ft. lbs
Water Pump Pulley Bolts: 15-21 ft. lbs
Harmonic Balancer: 70-90 ft. lbs
Crankshaft Pulley Bolts: 35-50 ft. lbs
Cylinder Head Bolts: 70 ft. lbs for Aluminum Heads*
Rocker Studs: 60 ft. lbs
Exhaust Manifold/Header Bolts: 26-32 ft. lbs
Valve Cover Bolts: 3-5 ft. lbs
Rocker Arm Fulcrum Bolts (Pedestal Mounted): 18-25 ft. lbs
Lower Intake Manifold Bolts: 23-25 ft. lbs**
Thermostat Housing: 12-18 ft. lbs
Upper Intake Bolts: 10-12 ft. lbs

*Read head bolt instructions and torque in stages
**Retorque in tightening sequence after a couple heat cycles


Extra Torque Specs:

Main Bearing Caps: 60-70 ft. lbs
Connecting Rod Bolts: 25 ft. lbs
Oil Pan Bolts: 9-11 ft. lbs/18 ft. lbs at timing cover and rear main side.
Flywheel Bolts: 75-85 ft. lbs

Loc-Tite Camshaft Sprocket Bolt and Thrust Washer Bolts.

5/16” Bolt Head – Intake Air Bypass Valve, Fuel Rail
3/8” Bolt Head – Timing Cover Bottom
7/16” Bolt Head – Water Pump Pulley, Valve Cover, Header/Manifold
1/2” Bolt Head – Lower/Upper Intake, Head, Throttle Body, T-Stat, Timing Cover
9/16” Bolt Head – A/C Bracket, Alternator
5/8” Bolt Head – Long Alternator, Water Pump, Oil Pan

Torque Specifications, Sequence, and Firing Order


Disassembly:

Mark all your hoses and connections with the tape and marker to help you put it together later on. Take pictures if need be. Relieve the fuel pressure by either having the car sit for a few hours or remove the schrader valve cap and use a small flathead screwdriver to press into the valve and release the pressure. Have a towel handy to absob the fuel that will come out. On 87-95 cars the schrader valve is located on a fuel rail located behind the alternator. Remove your air inlet tube whether it be a cold air intake or the stock plastic air box. Remove the MAF by undoing the connection from it. Begin to remove the throttle body by unbolting it from the 4 studs screwed into the upper intake held on by the 4 matching bolts. Also release the TPS sensor (on top of throttle body) connection along with the throttle linkage that pops off. Unbolt the upper intake (6 bolts I believe) and make sure you get the ones underneath the upper intake plate held onto it by some screws. Prepare for later to possibly replace the bolts or reuse them depending on what intake you are going to use. Before lifting it off completely remove the vacuum hoses from the upper intake so you can bring it up without tearing a line. When you unbolt the upper intake before hand it gives you more hand room to get those hoses and lines off nicely. The distributor is held in by one bolt located on the right side of the shaft. Make note of the firing order and where your spark plug wires went. Put a paper towel in the distributor hole so you don’t get any tools or debris in the engine.

Now that the upper intake is removed go ahead and unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail onto the lower intake. On the front passenger side head bolt, the fuel rail is held on by a bolt to hold the rail in place. Unbolt it so you can swing the fuel rail out of the way once you remove the rail from the injectors. The injectors will just pop out of your fuel rail and lower intake. Your local parts store will have a/c & fuel line disconnect tools that will let you disconnect the fuel rail easily. Unbolt the thermostat housing, which is held on by two bolts on the front of your lower intake. Go ahead and loosen all the 12 bolts that hold your lower intake on. The lower intake will be a bit hard to get off. Pry it off carefully and remove it after you have the hoses, sensors, lines removed from the lower intake. Swing those connections out of the way. Now that both the upper and lower intake are off it would be a good time to “reinstall” the upper and lower intake sensors and hoses onto your new intake.

Next I would go ahead and begin to remove the radiator and pull it out along with the fan shroud and stock fan and fan clutch. Remove your overflow tank. Unbolt the a/c condenser (in front of radiator) and swing it out of the way. This will now allow plenty of room for you to pull and install your cam later on. Start to remove the accessories on your engine. The alternator is bolted onto a bracket, which is held on by 3 bolts. Undo the alternator connections and remove it along with its bracket. Next remove the smog pump, if equipped, and then remove the a/c compressor by removing the bolts and swing it out of the way as well so you do not “bleed” the system and have to refill that later on. Next remove the power steering and remember how all the accessories bolt up for future reference.

Removal of the harmonic balancer is next after you remove the four bolts from the crankshaft pulley. And you have to break loose the 15/16th bolt that holds the balancer on. Put your car in 5th gear or Park with the e-brake on and someone stepping on the brake, if need be. You can then put a break-over bar and turn it counterclockwise to break the bolt loose. Removing the balancer is next. You need to get a harmonic balancer removal tool from your local parts store. Take bolt out and remove the washer. Thread the bolt back in about half way in. You are now ready to bolt up the harmonic balancer puller and use it. Next I would remove the water pump and timing chain. To save time and a gasket you can remove them as one piece. Try to remove the bolts/studs out carefully

OnyxCobra

You only have to torque the heads down in 3 steps, usually it's something like25-50-75. i torqued the short ones to 80 and the long ones to 90 on my build. The engine prime tool is nice but is it really necessary for heads? All the oil drains off them when your engine stops normally anyway.

LTnone

Shouldn't be necessary unless it's down for a long time. Onyx brings up another good point- iirc the water jacket bolts require different amounts of torque than the short ones.
If you do end up priming the engine and don't want to buy a tool, there's a cheap way to do it, but BE CAREFUL- get a 12" extension, and duct tape a 1/4" socket to it. It's basically a ghetto priming tool, and works just as well. But like I said, make sure that thing is on there, or you'll end up with a socket in your oil pan, which will put you in a whole world of hurt. I made one, worked fine for me but I was reeeaallll careful to tape it well and test it beforehand

Edit: fixed dumb mistake