HACKGT350

lol oh well thats different you posted lifters. double check before posting[8D]i have seen rockers loose because they werent tightened down enough but never seen them loosen up when torqued down right

Joel5.0

Throwing parts at a problem usually gets unnecessarily expensive, and no solution is ensured...... getting into a vicious circle that keeps asking for more $$.

Suggestions:

1. DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test

2. Make sure the lifters do not have an excessive preload. If preload is over .060", those valves might not be closing all the way, specially at high rpm levels.

3. Take the timing control from the ECM out of the picture for a test, remove SPOUT connector and leave it off, adjust timing to ~34° initial (again, do not reconnect the SPOUT)..... and test drive it to see if the sputter is still present.

LUK

kilby94

The car is a weekend car that i traded a four wheeler for. I Have been buying parts trying to fix the problem, but they are parts i will need down the road also for future plans. I have done all the KOEO/KOER tests and it only shows secondary air supply code but thats not even hooked up. Sometimes when it is really cold outside the car will run good and rev to 6,000 with no miss, but then my curse comes back and its slow again.

I am not sure how to test lifter preload. Recently i replaced valve springs, and i torqued everything to specs.

About the spout thing. I tried that and it did not miss with the spout unplugged and base timing set to 36*. I don't exactly know what to replace with those results. I just replaced the ecm last week and still had exact same syptom. I am going to check all the ground connections today for sh**s and giggles.

HACKGT350

alright dont listen then what do i know i only go to school for this stuff

kilby94

Well i to have had classes on this stuff, and its not a problem with injectors being to small. It is an intermittent failure somewhere in the ignition system. I just posted that it doesn't miss sometimes, only when demonized.

Also just pulled codes again KOEO (85,33,41,63,66,91), KOER (94,44,33).
Why is it giving the lean codes during KOEO and not KOER?

And also i have jacked the fuel pressure up beyond 50 psi before and it still made no difference.

HACKGT350

koeo codes are what have been stored in the computer from driving around. there are only a couple things that will make you go lean. not enough fuel vacuum leaks bad o2's

HACKGT350

it could def be the o2's when the car is cold its running on open loop not reading the o2's till they warm but they its running off the preprogramed settings and will run nice and rich and pull to 6k as soon as it warms up and goes into closed loop its reading the o2's and if they are not working and think the cars running rich it will lean out the mixture and not pull to 6k. try pulling the ECT and drive around. the car will warm up but it wont let the computer know that its at opertating temp and run in open loop till your plug it back in and run rich thinking the engine is cold. see if that helps any

Yenko

And I only do it for a living. I would keep with the valve train, sounds like typical valve train stuff. Make sure you installed the correct valve springs for it.

Joel5.0

+

+

HACKGT350, DO NOT misinterpret anything negative from the following....... but you are entitled to a refund from that misinformation based education you are paying for. If you, or your teacher/professor think this statement is wrong...... have him explain......

+ no A/F related failure codes.

kilby94

I installed the trick flow kit with .542 lift springs that are made for the heads i have. I shimmed them to correct installed height, and everything seemed perfect. But when it comes to other valve train components, i really don't know because car came with them when i got it.