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experienced help

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Old 04-09-2008, 01:32 PM
  #11  
AdderMk2
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Default RE: experienced help

your fuel is obviously NOT the problem, so stop looking there... you better check your timing.

distributor AND cam. sounds to me like your cam is running a little too far advanced
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:29 PM
  #12  
94StinkinLincoln
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well i checked the timing, base is at 10. im going to check to see if the balancer TDC matches with actual piston TDC.

the cam was installed staright up, like last time. i attempted to use a degree wheel, i would get the first few numbers matching on the cam card then the next one would be way off, i dont know what i was doing wrong, i just got agrivated with it and installed it straight up, dot to dot, while i got the lower intake off to fix the little oil leak i guess i will pull the timing chain cover and give the degree wheel another shot. hopefully i can get it right this time. if my valves were out of adjustment, (too much preload on rollers) it would idle rough and run rough through the rpms correct? its not doing that.
the more i look at everything, it does seem like cam timing.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:22 PM
  #13  
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bump
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:35 PM
  #14  
aode08
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Default RE: experienced help

http://eectuning.org/forums/ go here, ive read your logs, and they are not off. The TPS concerns me though.

There are several Ford EEC-IV tuning experts on there, they are directly affiliated with Tweecer.


Just show them your logs and Mods.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:58 PM
  #15  
aode08
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Default RE: experienced help

Have your tuner put a cover sheet on the TPS report.


Now on the TPS voltage, concerns me, not necc the sensor, but take another look there, and check over the sensor and its wiring, PT -WOT values as well.



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Old 04-09-2008, 08:02 PM
  #16  
94StinkinLincoln
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Default RE: experienced help

thats a ton! what are you seeing about the values that concern you besides that its high at idle?
i have another log i need to put up, i had the voltage down to 1.3, im going to work on getting closer to 1v.

i mostly was either at light PT or WOT.

log
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:19 PM
  #17  
aode08
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are you running LC-1 ?
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:29 PM
  #18  
aode08
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Default RE: experienced help

Well , here is begginers guide version .1

Still its a great guide for any tuner



Version 0.1



[This document starts with obvious things you may already know since it is hard to know where to begin.]

1 What is an EEC?
The EFI computers in the Ford EEC family – and in fact any EFI computer - have the job of opening and closing the fuel injectors by sending them electrical pulses and firing the spark plugs by sending a signal to the coil (or coil packs if there is no distributor.)

[There are other minor functions controlled by the EEC, e.g. controlling the fuel pump, electric fans, EGR valve, etc, but we are not going to worry about those for now.]

The EEC runs a stored program that monitors sensors and makes the decisions to open injectors and fire the coil at just the right instant and for just the right amount of time. The sensors are pretty basic and common sense: The EEC has a sensor called TPS that tells it how far open the throttle is; the MAF sensor tells it how much air is flowing into the engine, the O2 sensors say richer/leaner than 14.64, and there is sensor coming back from the distributor telling the EEC the position of the camshaft. [Yes, there are a bunch of other minor sensors, include coolant temp, inlet air temp, etc. but they are beyond the scope of this introduction.]

1.1 Principals of Operation
By paying close attention to all these sensors, the EEC can do a pretty good job of running the engine using its stored program from Ford.

1.2 Operational Modes
The EEC operates in three distinct modes.

1) In closed loop mode the EEC uses the MAF sensor to determine the amount of air entering the engine to calculate a "guess" of how much fuel to inject. It uses facts about the engine (number of cylinders, injector size) to calculate the injector pulse width to deliver the right amount of fuel, and then at the appropriate instant when the cam position sensor says the engine is at the right point in the 4 stroke cycle, the EEC switches on +12V to the particular fuel injector and holds it there for just the right amount of time - the pulse width. Then it continuously uses the too-rich / too-lean signals from the O2 sensors to add a bit or subtract a bit of time to the injector PWs to achieve 14.64 A/F ratio. [14.64 A/F ratio is called stoichiometric mixture. It is the chemical mixture where gasoline burns with best emissions. FWIW, 15.1 results in slightly better fuel economy, but creates more emissions. And you can't by an O2 sensor calibrated for 15.1 anyway.]

The EEC operates in closed loop mode almost all of the time.

2) In open loop mode the EEC completely ignores the O2 sensors and hopes to achieve some specific A/F ratio just by using the MAF sensor voltage, RPM, number of cylinders, and injector size to calculate fuel injector PW. I say hope because it is typical for your MAF transfer function and / or injector slope to be as much as 10% off. Without the O2 sensor feedback used in closed loop, open loop commanded A/F ratios are never very precise. Open loop mode is used whenever the EEC needs to achieve A/F other than 14.64.

Typically open loop is used at startup and at WOT when the engine needs an A/F ratio mixture richer than stoichiometric. Richer A/F is needed at engine startup, especially with a cold engine, just like a carbureted engine has a choke. Richer A/F is needed at WOT: Maximum HP at WOT typically occurs somewhere between 12 and 13. Also, this slightly richer mixture helps cool the combustion chamber and exhaust valves at the higher combustion temperatures of WOT.

3) Another mode the EEC may operate in is called limp mode. As the name implies, this mode is only invoked when the EEC thinks something is wrong. A typical reason for limp mode is failure of one or more sensors. Depending on what sensors failed, the EEC may refuse to operate or may operate in limp mode. [The Check Engine light always accompanies limp mode.] For example, if O2 sensors fail the EEC operates but cannot run in closed loop. The EEC can even run in limp mode with the MAF disconnected by using TPS and RPM to estimate PW - It just won't run very well.

1.3 KAMRF
The accumulation and use of KAMRF data inside the EEC is an essential part of its operation. As the EEC runs the engine in closed loop mode it continuously corrects its PW guesses using the O2 sensor data. Over time the EEC remembers for specific PW, load and voltage how far wrong its guesses tend to be. These estimated correction values are called KAMRF and are stored and reported as numbers in a range around 1.00 + / - 15%. (Actually the 15% limit is a parameter in the EEC calibration that you can change.) If the KAMRF for a particular PW, load, and battery voltage is smaller than 1 it indicates that for some reasons the EECs calculated PW are too large producing an A/F richer than desired. So after calculating the PW the EEC applies the KAMRF by multiplying the calculated PW by the KAMRF value to produce the actually PW to use.

KAMRF data is lost when the battery is disconnected. And the longer the EEC operates the more complete its KAMRF data becomes.

Although KAMRF data is only accumulated in closed loop, it is used to calculate open loop PW if available. However, many open loop situations, e.g. WOT, would never have KAMRF data available since there would never be any closed loop opportunity to collect data for those PW and load factors.

1.4 Calibration
The EEC program – just a computer program, nothing very special - operates by "knowing" a bunch of "facts" about your engine. For example, it knows the engine is 302 cid. It knows the injectors flow 19 lbs/hr. It knows if your MAF signals 2.0v it means xxx Kg/hr of air is flowing into the engine. And it even knows the engine needs xxx lbs/hr of air to idle at 850 RPM.

After we modify the engine the EEC's idea of reality is false.

The best way to see how important it is for the EEC to have a good sense of reality is to look at open loop fuel calculations.

For every fuel injector pulse the EEC calculates

PW = (MafAirFlow * 2.205 / 60) / RPM / (NumberOfCylinders / 2) / DesiredAFR / (InjectorSlope / (60*60)

So what happens to the accuracy of this calculation if you replace your 19lb/hr injectors with 30lb/hr injectors? Every single time the EEC try to calculate PW it will come up with a PW that is 1.57 times too long and your engine will be at AFR 9 instead of 14.64.

[Notice that if your MAF intentionally under-reported air measurements by 63% your PW calculations would be correct. Although this solution has other side effects, that is exactly what happens when you have 30 lb/hr injectors and a new MAF calibrated for 30 lb/hr injectors.]

Here's another example of how bad things happen when your EEC is out of touch with reality. Timing advance is very dependent on knowing engine load. When the engine is at light load it needs as much as 25 degrees more timing advance then when it is at high load at a given RPM. For example, at 3000 RPM WOT your engine may want 32 degrees of advance for optimum power, but at 3000 RPM steady cruise with very light throttle, your engine probably needs more like 50 or 55 degrees of advance. [This is what vacuum advance does on old-fashioned engines.] All the timing advance tables in the EEC are load specific, with separate rows of values for 10% load, 20% load, ... up to 100% load. The EEC calculates load as

Load = SeaLevelScaling * airflow / displacement

Imagine how this calculation works out if you have a stock EEC, 30 lb injectors, and MAF calibrated for 30 lb injectors. The MAF is falsely under-reporting air into the engine by 60%. For this engine then the maximum WOT load would be calculated as 60% (assuming all other things are unchanged) and at WOT the EEC will be using the timing advance rows for 60% load. The only thing that will sa
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Old 04-13-2008, 01:08 PM
  #19  
94StinkinLincoln
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cam gear 6 oclock and crank gear at 12 correct?
i do still have the rocker arm and lash adjusted, and at max lift i am getting like 116 intake centerline, it should be 110.
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Old 04-13-2008, 01:42 PM
  #20  
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I would try to break that cam wheel back out and use that, You can put a cam in straight up dot to dot, and actually still be 5 degrees off yet. It's very possible.
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