GT5point0

thanks im gonna have to try that on wed when i get time to run down to the shop, im confused by you saying changing the cam could make it worse so if i do have these issues my best bet would be to get the pistons flycut, i think a custom cam would cost a lot more, right now i dont have the money for either but i think the flycut is cheaper, but ill find out i might not have any issues so we'll see.

So i put the playdough in the piston, bolt the head back down, put rockers on and all that and then crank it 2 times and take the head off and see if the playdough is at least .400's in width from being compressed if thats the case i have no issues and then i should be good to go?

mjr46

since twisted wedge heads have canted valves cover the whole piston with clay/play dough and do just as you mentioned setting up valvetrain properly and you must use converted roller lifters or solid ones or reading will be inaccurate

GT5point0

so i cant use the stock roller lifters for this then? if not where do i get solid ones cheap for testing like this

GT5point0

how many solid lifters would i need to get to, 8 or just a couple for that valve im checking???

Joel5.0

You convert (2) lifters into solids.... check the info in this article .... LUK

GT5point0

How much of a benefit is that i have the forged trw pistons, the block i used has about 80k miles and is outta my old 88 mustang. So is the gonna be of any benefit for the clearance issues?

AdderMk2

with a 2.08" intake valve, you WILL be cutting those pistons

GT5point0

Thanks thats what i wanted to know, i figured i would but i wanted someone with more knowledge to come out and say it.

GT5point0

Also i called around about getting the pistons cut the few places i called in OH said they need to be removed from the block, by doing this its gonna end up being really expensive 150 for the cuts, plus time and removal or pistons rods ad rings, which i have never done, ive built top end before but never have taken apart a bottem end of an engine.

So my question is does anyone know any place OH paticularly the northeastern part, of which places use that isky tool and are able to cut the pistons without taking them out. So i could save some money and not have to possibly buy new rings and replace things and take all that extra time to do this. I dont really feel save cutting them myself, nor do i want to tear the whole bottem end down to do this and buying new pistons im gonna need prob new rods and have to get all the stuff balanced, which is gonna cost some $$

5spd GT

A dremel and a steady hand can do wonders.

Do not "bump the engine" over when check for clearance issues. If there were to be issues, you bend the valves at minimum. You likely will not need depth, but more radial clearance on the edges of the valve reliefs.

You can convert one lifter over, and just check the intake side and exhaust side, individually.

Here is how you clay the piston:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/fundamentals/pistontovalve/