bikeboy587

can I put my stock 1.59 rockers on the heads to rule out that my rockers are not the problem?.. i'm just searching for something i'm so stumped....

67mustang302

Are your sure your ignition timing is correct? Did you pull/loosen the dizzy for any reason? It may not be valvetrain related, so don't forget to check the basic stuff as well. It sounds though like the 6.3's may be too long, so if stockers are right then you need to find out where the sound is coming from.

tyler72

Yea, you should be able to put them back on, just as long as your cam isn't huge. I think you shouldseriously consider changing over to adjustable valvetrain. You can get studs from ARP or Comp cams that allow you to do it without any head machining. The studs just screw into the original 5/16 holes that are currently in the heads now. This way you can get the valve adjustment just right without so much headache. Thats just me though, right now I'd say that it looks pretty good.

On one more note, if you dont have guide plates or dont want to run them, Probe makes roller rockers that have the "rail" to keep them in line.

highspeed

My guess would be that you may have damaged your lifters with the longer pushrods... especially if you used hardened pushrods... the rockers or lifters would get damaged before the pushrod would bend... if they were not hardened then you may want to check out those 6.40 push rods and see if they have any bends in them.

Your lifters would probably be the first to exhibit any problems as a result of installing to long of a pushrod.

FoxGT

Sounds to me like you probably were better off with the 6.250 pushrods. Why were you changing?

As for the noise if you didn't install the pushrods in the same spot they came out of you'll have a very loud tapping noise. Happened to me when i was rebuilding my engine & had all of my pushrods pushed into a piece of styrofoam in order then a friend came along & accidentally kicked the styrofoam block over. Was out of money at the time so i just put them back in in a random order & sounded like someone had a hammer inside my engine. Replaced them with new ones & no more valvetrain noise. You could also check the insides of the 6.250 ones to make sure the oil passage hole is clean in the pushrods.

I'd double check on the lifters though to make sure they weren't damaged from the longer rods (i doubt they did get damaged but it's possible)

tyler72

I highly doubt they were damaged, he said they were brand new, and that the car wouldn't even fire o them because the valves weren't closing all the way. Small block Fords are not interference engines, so even if the valves were staying open slightly, the pistons would not hit the valves. You cannot damage a lifter by having too much preload, especially if it isn't run that way.

When you buy a lifter set, most companies tell you not to soak the lifters in oil. This will keep them from "pre-pumping" and will allow the lifter to collapse all the way until it recieves oil pressure. After you turn the engine over a few times to set all of the valves' preload, then you can prime the oil pump, and the lifters will be good to go. But the bottom line is that running too long of a pushrod will not hurt the lifter unless there is piston to valve contact.

will

Is it poss your rr is hitting the spring retainers? or rr are not adjusted right. swap out for original rockers and see what happens

bikeboy587

sound is coming from the valve train, the 6.250 are not right. I didn't touch the dizzy when I changed over to the 6.300, there is no reason to. I am almost sure the 6.300 are too long but why the hell does the car sound like a race car with a solid cam with them 6.250 and .037 preload on the lifter?! makes no sense.


I am not using any guideplates with my set up, not needed. may cam is not huge, only .499/.510 221/225 112lsa. Any adjustable valvetrain is an idea no one has pitched to me yet, of course that means dumping more money into the studs and new adjustable rockers[:@] but it is something ill keep in the back of my mind. Don't you always have to keep checking an adjustable valve train every couple months? that would be a b*tch


The engine never was able to run with the 6.400 pushrods because the valves were being hung open= no compression. i took the lifters out on the one side(i was running 6.250 pushrods at this point.) after that and re primed them, because at the time one the passengerside was makign noise and all the lifters looked fine.

bikeboy587

i was changing the stock pushrods because the motor was loud as hell with valve train noise, guess ill get that vid up of what it sounded like for you guys.

yes i know you are suppose to keep them in order i did that when took them out and i rebuilt my short block last month. keep them all in order. but with a different cam, lifters, rockers, valves, springs, and heads from the old set up, it really doesnt matter if i kept them in the same order because nothing besides the pushrods at that point where the same...you can treat them as new out of the box pushrods, it will not matter where they go....


and yes i checked them all that there were not clogged and straight.










And yes I primed my motor before i ever started the motor just in case anyone wants to ask that.

bikeboy587

Just put my 6.300 pushrods in with a .025 shims. The engine is now able to start, the driver side is silent and purring like a cat.....the friggen passenger sides is loud and clapping like it always has been, even with the 6.250......did it with the valve covers off. all the lifters are pumping up, all the rockers are getting oil. i have no ticking. i put a stethascope on all the rockers as it ran, none of them stick out as different, all have a clapping noise. none are loose or moving around so the rockers seem fine. the same set up is working fine on the driver side and noisy as **** on the pass side. sooooo stumped