5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

ok guy i need help bad!!!!

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Old 09-07-2008, 09:17 PM
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calfroper_06
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Unhappy ok guy i need help bad!!!!

ok so hers what iv done so far, timing set at 13* running v-power, new dizzy cap, rotor, plugs, checked all vac lines, repared a couple. new coil, tried diffrent set of wires, still no change, so today i pulled my upper intake andpulled everything apart and cleaned it, throttle body,egr all of it, put new gaskets on, cleaned all my connectors made sure all the vac lines were good and tight. installed all back and still have the miss orwhat ever is wrong, also the car just dont fell like it has the power it should, like i take off hard in 1st it starts to spin up to about 6k shift to 2nd and blump no power. when your at low rpms give it gas its like a slight sputter, do u think a cylinder could be down. anyways please yall give some addvice, ill be gone for a week so ill c what yall have to say when i get back thanks for all the help so far,im sure im gonna need alot more lol
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Old 09-07-2008, 09:21 PM
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mjr46
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I'd perform a compression test and a cylinder leakage test to see if valves are sealing, could have a weak or broken spring, that's to say whatever you are feeling can be attributed to a miss......without driving vehicle it's hard to be accurate on something like this
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Old 09-07-2008, 09:34 PM
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What mjr40 is trying to say is give him more information,and he can help you better.Im sure he can I think he owns and runs the 5.0 section now. :-)
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:54 PM
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calfroper_06
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mjr46: I think I'm misjudging the problem. I'm gonna start from the beginning. After I let the car sit all night and I go to crank it; in order for it to start I have to pump the gas pedal and continue to give it some gas for about 10 seconds to keep it running. The "miss" I refered to earlier I believe is more of a hesitation. At idle the car runs and lopes fine, but when at idle and I go to give it gas it hesitates at first then proceeds to rev up. If I give it gas and hold it (at 2000 RPMs or so); it kinda sputters like it's losing fuel. Whenever I tore apart the throttle body the other day to clean it, the TPS looked worn inside (refering to the little plastic tabs inside were chipped and looked like it's scraping). Could this be part of the problem?? Also, am I able to check the fuel pressure through the Schrader valve while the car is running?

Thanks for all the help so far.
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:59 PM
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mjr46
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if the tps is bad it can cause flat spots or hesitations , to check it you back probe the signal wire and while slowly opening throttle plate make sure there is a steady rise in the voltage value with out it going to open circuit, if you find a spot while opening it where that occurs tps could be bad.....you should never have to pump the gas to keep an efi car running, if so either the Iac motor is inoperative or there is a vaccum leak unbeknownst to you somewhere which can contribute to a lean hesitation that you may be experiencing
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Old 09-11-2008, 06:20 PM
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calfroper_06
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whats the IAC motor, is that the one on the front side of the throttle body? if so what is its purpose? Also ive double check the vac lines like twice but ur right i could be overlooking something, what is the proper way the sucure the pvc valve going into the motor? mine just sides in and out could that cause a vac leak and can i put anything around it to cause a tighter more sealed bond?
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Old 09-11-2008, 06:23 PM
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mjr46
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Originally Posted by calfroper_06
whats the IAC motor, is that the one on the front side of the throttle body? if so what is its purpose? Also ive double check the vac lines like twice but ur right i could be overlooking something, what is the proper way the sucure the pvc valve going into the motor? mine just sides in and out could that cause a vac leak and can i put anything around it to cause a tighter more sealed bond?
IAC = IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE = it controls the idle....pcv fits into a rubber grommet in the intake manifold at rear..........it is suppose to slide / lightly push it in........have you run a koer test and checked to see if any codes exist??
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Old 09-11-2008, 06:29 PM
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calfroper_06
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yeah the KOER ran 12, 21, 41, and 91.
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Old 09-11-2008, 06:46 PM
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for code 21 was the test performed with the engine at operating temp..cause it needs to be or code will be output.....also 41 and 91 indicate a lean condition on both banks, is the fuel pressure at spec?? has it been checked???
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Old 09-11-2008, 07:35 PM
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no it wasnt at operating temp, i mean it was it was warm just not at full operating temp. i check the fuel pressure back when i put the motor in, i was getting 2 psi and the car wouldnt start, then while test i bled the line or whatever it was doing threw the fuel pressure test and got it to 36 to 38 psi, then car would start.(that was while motor was off)> CAn i check the pressure while car is running, threw the schrader valve. Also can u buy the adapter that goes on the schrader valve and then to the tester i lost mine and cant find it
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