I have finally decided to upgrade my cam as my timing cover was leaking a little. I figured I'd do it while I had it down that far. I can't decide on a cam. I have researched for hours and still can't decide.

I am running a 306 Carbed with GT40 heads. I don't want something too radical. All you see is TFS1 cams everywhere but I've read you can make more power with a E303 with GT40 heads.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

The TrickFlow cam is really meant to help broaden the power curve of the Twisted Wedge heads. But it is still a really good cam for the price. The E-cam too is another mild option, but it is outdated, since it is only a single pattern cam whereas the TrickFlow is a dual pattern. I will say that the E cam does sound more aggressive than the TrickFlow's. I like my TFS-1 cam. I Was going to get an E in the beginning, but since it was $30 more and was outdated, I got the TrickFlow. I've heard the Steeda 18(not 19) is pretty good as well.

 

there are so many choices in choosing a cam, lift duration, what you intend for it to do, what rpm your intake starts and stops working at, what your max vlv spring lift capacity is, and Ecam is greast for little to no mods, tfs1 is a great cam, crane has a .530 lift i forget the part number that you can get with a small duration where you dont loose the low end, do you have flat top pistons with vlv reliefs, lots of things come into this choice, but there is one thing for sure you have enough to chose from! the b cam is better out of teh whole than the ecam, i have a friend with it in his 95 gt and he likes it pretty good he has gt40 aluminum heads bcam and trickflow intake works pretty good for him! i think you cant go over a .550 lift with your heads so anything under that will work, and the duration will need to be under 230 for an automatic without aftermarket stall. five speed it dosent matter much!

 

Thanks for the advice.
Yes my pistons have valve reliefs. I do have a 5 Speed with 3.55 gears.My manifold is good from 1500-6500.

 

it is a good idea to stay around the same rpm range in your choices works out better that way, some companies have a recommended gear to run also just do your homework and you should make a good choice!

 

make sure you get matching springs for your cam choice

 

MJR46 are you meaning lift capacity? My springs should be okay as long as I don't go over .550 lift correct?

 

I was more so refering to the open and closed pressures that are required per manufactorers spec on your cam choice...the generic note that like lets say afr says their springs are good for cams up to .550 lift is kinda just that generic like the underwear you buy at wal-mart that says one size fits all, fits some real well and others not so well, so when setting up a valvetrain I allways draw springs down and see at what height the spring reaches the manufactorers open and closed pressures then shim or install springs to that height while being mindfull to check for coil bind at max lift hope this all makes sense

 

Yes that makes sense. Nice Walmart analogy...

 

As long as your not building a race engine with a .600+ lift cam you dont have to worry about all this you will be fine with the small camshaft, all this info is good and not really for a beginner to try and decifer, make it easy on yourself, get a small cam check your rpm range and you will be fine, you wont even need to check piston to vlv clearance! good luck